Did you change jetting?

 

have a cv carb with 46 slow jet at 2.5 turns out on screw 185 main yost power tube

 

Is this the same as you had before the EV13?

 

Sounds like the {carb} low speed circuit is not working as it should. Is there a vacuum line not hooked up?

 

Cam timing off?

Ignition timing needs to be readjusted?

 

vacuum lines are all hooked up. can you check vacuum with gauge like on a car? what should it be at idle? tried advancing and retarding timing a little both ways didn't make any difference. timing was right before I started cam install then after I static timed it and it was about 4 deg retarded

 

yes same jetting as before accept I was at 2 turns out on the screw. tried going up to 3 turns but was to rich.

 

Jetting sounds right. What needle are you using? That jetting would be for an oem needle.

If it ran well before, it should run well now. That's not much of a bump as cams go. You'll need to look at what you might have altered during the cam swap. Could be a tooth off on the cam. Could be way off on the spark. Static timing is to get it running, not to tune it with. Use timing light to look at the timing marks.

Also when you removed the carb, if you laid it on its side, it might have dirt in the transfer ports now.

 

carb has yost red needle with clip in th 3rd groove. I did not remove carb. I made sure I had the cam gear, pinion gear, and breather gear lined up. it runs good from 2300 rpm on up just not seeing any power gain

 

That's not a cam that's goign to give you much extra power up top, and what every is making it run poorly down low is prolly writing off a lot of mid range power.

Double check your timing. If that spark box is adjustable, be sure its set to non aggressive curve. After that it's read the plugs and make an educated guess. You might double check the pick up and rotor, have a look at the pickup connector.

Run a compression test to see if the cam timing is off. Andrews should be able to tell you what the normal CCP is for that cam.

No idea on that Kaw needle. They really need to be tuned on a gas analyzer. They vary a lot one needle to the next. But it's not your issue as it has no influence on how the motor is running at 2500rpm. With that said, at your jetting I'd toss it and put the oem needle and sleeve back in with that cam.

 

it should have the blue needle, with 2 washers, a 46 is large for an 80" evo

 

I did a compression test. it is 145 front 140 rear. how can a comp. test tell you if the cam timing is off? do you think the crane hi-4 or the coil could be going bad and causing this issue?

 

If a given cam is installed in a stock evo it makes X lbs of cold cranking pressure or CCP. Torque cams close the intake early and raise the CCP. Power cams hold the valves open longer, which lowers the CCP. That's why long diration cams run so poorly in low compression motors.

Cold cranking compression is one of the design factors in building cam profiles.

So if yours is more or less than what the maker specified, something is wrong.

I don't know what it should be for that cam. But Andrews knows, and one of the builders here on the forum might have it written down in a work book.

Based on when that intake closes, your number looks low to me.

I would probably pull the cam cover rather than wait on a reply from Andrews.

 

It would be an odd coincidence that your ignition module went bad while you were installing a new cam. I would look at things you touched.

Not sure since Crane went bankrupt and S&S bought them, but I picked up a couple Crane modules years ago at swap meets because Crane used to give you an unlimited lifetime warranty on all their modules. If they were bad I could send them in and they would test it and send me a new one.

 

That's wild. I have the EV13 in mine and it went in solid. The only time I have noticed excessive bucking given that everything else is good to go, is pilot jet fuel delivery. I have it static timed to 0 degrees and on the most aggressive timing map available.

I doubt a coil or timing module that is bad at low rpm is going to be good at upper rpm. But I could be wrong.

However, considering my jet settings are lower than pretty much everyone expected them to be (disregarding 10:1), it's something I would consider, dropping down a number and seeing if it's more rideable between idle and 3000rpm. I'm kinda siding with tall_terry on that one. Tune your carb I think is the next step. My tunes are in my sig...yours are going to be a bit fatter since the stock 8.5:1 isn't going to be as fuel efficient, but shouldn't be 46 kind of fatter.

 

when I checked compression it was on a cold engine so when hot it will be more. I checked compression before ev13 install it was 130 front 125 rear on stock cam. so I am a good 15 higher now. I will rejet the carb and see if that makes any difference.