Excellent job.....

 

Great to hear. Thanks for letting us know the problem. Will help people who find this thread someday, or maybe ourselves.

I am curious about the interface cable, I got the same ignition on my 01, with 98"

 

Good deal, those kind of problems are a pain in the ass to find

 

Kick ASSSSSSSS!!!! I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!! Checking the ignition module pin #1, a white/black stripe wire....no voltage to ignition....traced wire back up to misaligned (when i installed the Deutch connectors) pin on hand control, the stop/run switch.....Bingo! Been running the bike for maybe twenty minutes letting the exhaust paint cook on. No problems, no leaks, no pops or sputters. Thank you all for the replies. I just got a little more experienced with my bike lol. I'm stoked. Now i just have to paint and touch up some parts...i dragged my saddlebags and messed up the bottom edge and i'm putting on a wrap front fender. I'll be riding in a week or so, maybe 10 days after paint is cured and polished. ?prty:?prty:
Tim

 

I was wrong. I bought the interface cablese seperately and they came with the Twin Cam and Evo together, the jumpers were for the Evo.

I was wondering. When you do an Interface with your laptop you have just so many more options. One of them is to set how many rpm's the engine will crank during starting before it will signal a spark. Mine was default at 2 and I keep it there to help with kick back. I'm just stuck on that in my head probably means nothing.
Yall really need these interface cables.....there is just so much you can do with these things as well as record and log all your run time.

 

I think he may have too, but thats to easy.

On a early single fire ignitions they use the sensor to reflect TDC. Although I don't have one of those to replicate it, what I do have is an early DTT that did have jumpers that came with it, let me see what they were for as I never needed them. Give me a bit

 

I think you have a bad ignition

 

I know it's frustraiting but while your waiting....

Do all the basic troubleshooting that the manual gives you with out even putting that ignition in the equation. When you get with tech sapport they are going to have a few basic questions and if you have the troubleshooting done you will have the answer.

If you have a couple extra bucks try and get the cable so you can plug it into your computer, if you had this alot of the questions that you are wondering about would have been answered.

Great unit, hope you get it sorted soon.

 

As far as the cable and software they offer i'm kinda screwed as i'm a MAC not a PC guy. I dont have or have access to a Windows based PC laptop.
Will the bike actually run with the Cam Position sensor plugged in but not installed on the bike? I'm guessing not. I did plug the old SE ignition module and the CPS plugged in but not bolted back on the bike. If thats a stupid question i apologize. I really don't want to take off and re install the exhaust and the cam cover if i can avoid it. Can a jumper wire be used to connect a pin or something on the CPS to "fool" it into working? I know, dumb question.
Tim

 

Yes, I did have the tank off and I pulled the battery so I could double check everything was plugged in and hooked up correctly. I didn't see any obvious issues. I guess I'll have to call them Monday. They are in Fla and I'm in So Cal, a few hours difference.
Tim

 

Maybe it is bad. Not impossible. I would call and just ask for help. Let them lead you to the point is broke, and set up return, if it gets that far.

Did you have the tank off and possibly disturb anything?

Good thing about up here with the snow I am in no rush, and have plenty of time. Though I would probably wait until I saw a good forecast coming, to start working on it.

 

Yes, i have the TC88 for 98-03. the first setting on the dials is 0 for multi spark disabled, and 1 for multi spark enabled. I did try it with both, same result.

This is copied off the DTT website:

What is the difference between 1998-2000 and 2001-2003 Twin Cam 88® models?

With the exception of few motorcycles manufactured in late 2003 (as explained above), the carbureted versions of all these models use an ignition module with two 12 pin connectors. H-D® did away with the camshaft position (CMP) sensor on 2001 and later models. There were reports of problems with these sensors. They may also have deleted the CMP sensor as a cost cutting measure made possible by the more sophisticated Delphi® electronics on the newer models.

Without the CMP sensor, there is no direct means of identifying which cylinder is on the compression stroke. The ignition system must use an algorithm that detects the slight reduction of crankshaft angular velocity on the compression stroke during cranking. This is not a trivial problem and not all the companies selling aftermarket ignitions have solved it.

If the ignition can't identify the compression stroke, the system must operate in wasted spark mode. In this case, each spark plug is fired twice - once on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust stroke. This is not as bad as the old dual fire, but it's certainly not what the designers of the Twin Cam 88® engine had in mind.

The TC88 is compatible with all 1998-2003 carbureted Twin Cam 88® models using an ignition module with two 12 pin connectors. The TC88 does not require a camshaft position sensor (CMP) and this sensor may be unplugged or removed on 1998-2000 models. If the CMP sensor fails, it may cause a short circuit that will prevent the TC88 from operating. Since the CMP sensors have a questionable history, we suggest unplugging the sensor.

Which i did....
Tim

 

You have TC88 for 98 to 2003, not TCA for 2003-?

Have you tried going back to dual fire instead of single fire? Change the dial setting, just to see if anything happens, don't run it that way.

 

I wouldn't go though all the trouble of putting cam sensor back on.

Is there any possibility the wires from ignition to coil are loose?

I read the instructions for my TC88 2001,no cam sensor. It just says if you have a cam sensor, to not plug it in. So I guess I was wrong about the jumper.

I got nothing other then checking wires are tight in plug to ignition, coil, crank sensor, and map. I realize this is vague.


If the motor is turning over, that implies that rest of the start circuit is fine. I would think if BAS or TSSM was unhappy it would not even crank.


I had some goofy engine cutouts after I went to aftermarket ignition. I ended up building a tyrwap harness around the connector and ignition. This seemed to help for a long time. Before this I did have instances of not start. I pluged old in, and it would start, plug new in again ok. I thought maybe it was coming loose. Few years later, it started cutting out when riding. I went back to stock ignition again, which seemed better. I am pretty sure it ended up being the coil that time, and I think seperate. I had a 2nd bike by then and wasn't riding it as much though, so a funny electrical problem was spread out. I did wonder if the programable ignition was more sensitive to low volt ages, or bad coil or ??????

Though I got made at my new bike, and started riding this one again, and have not had a problem in awhile. I ohmed out the coil when I replaced it. It was in range. Though I don't think it is your coil. Since it is not running no vibrations or heat effecting it.


I got nothing. Good luck.

 

Battery voltage was good and i did have it hooked up while starting. I don't know about a jumper wire when deleting the CPS. Putting the old cam cover and cam position sensor that is inside it, would be a MFer. I'd have to drain the new Mobil 1 i just filled it with, remove the right floorboard, the entire exhaust, THEN replace the cam cover. And yes, i did hold a plug on the cylinder head while grounded and look for spark, no joy.
Thanks for the reply, Zerk. I'm kinda frustrated right now, i really wanted to hear it fire up!!!

Tim

 

My only option there is to call Daytona Twin Tec on monday during business hours and ask them, and if it's bad,

If you don't have it give them a call. There may be something they can suggest or a common mistake, or model application issue.

 

Is there a jumper that needs to installed in the wiring harness or somewhere? I kinda remember reading something about having to install a jumper when getting rid of the cam sensor but I don't remember where.

Battery voltage is good? 12.7ish. If in doubt try starting on charger.


If you installed the old ignition module, and it didn't work? How hard would it be to but the old cam sensor in?


Have you set a plug on the jug, to watch it spark?