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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I've worked on a cv once the must've been dropped. The bore that the i/a screw goes into broke flush with the screw head. For some reason I was never able to keep it from leaking there. Might've been cracked. Also seen them corroded so badly the head is all that comes out(smaller mini bikes 4 wheeler type carbs) some people will remove the cap with a drill bit and ram it all the way through to the screw like they're drilling through 2 inches of steel.
I would say I'm smart but I ain't that stupid..............any way I'm almost through the threads and I'm hoping the rest will fall out
 
I bought a 1997 FLH with 50,000 miles. Anybody got any ideas on how to remove stripped screws on the float bowl of it's cv carb I intend to rebuild. Wasn't expecting that. What's worse is someone had popped the cap of the idle mixture screw and that's F%$&*^#G stripped too! I know I'll try drilling or something but I'm hoping one of you guys have a better way. If I use a heat gun would that cause warpage? I'm open to all sugestions naturally Thanks










342567
Try die grinder .make a flat blade slit on stripped screw
 
I would just grab the one I have on the shelf. But someone else might buy a used one and rebuild it. Or if they wanted new, and it had to be a CV, then Wood would be my first call.

When buying used, look for the ones that do not have the tamper plug drilled out. They are the most likely to be un-molested by the carb gremlins.

As for the OP's carb, its probably fixable. Just needs some experienced hands on. A glance down the back side of the suck hole will tell the tail on the mix screw.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I would just grab the one I have on the shelf. But someone else might buy a used one and rebuild it. Or if they wanted new, and it had to be a CV, then Wood would be my first call.

When buying used, look for the ones that do not have the tamper plug drilled out. They are the most likely to be un-molested by the carb gremlins.

As for the OP's carb, its probably fixable. Just needs some experienced hands on. A glance down the back side of the suck hole will tell the tail on the mix screw.
Thinking on it
 
Once you get your FLOAT BOWL Screws OUT ...
try replacing them with THESE:




www.CV-Performance.com has plenty of UPGRADE Parts
&
Excellent Tuning SUGGESTIONS for KEIHIN CV-40 & Screaming Eagle CV style CARBURETORS
...
IMHO
...



I bought a 1997 FLH with 50,000 miles. Anybody got any ideas on how to remove stripped screws on the float bowl of it's cv carb I intend to rebuild. Wasn't expecting that. What's worse is someone had popped the cap of the idle mixture screw and that's F%$&*^#G stripped too! I know I'll try drilling or something but I'm hoping one of you guys have a better way. If I use a heat gun would that cause warpage? I'm open to all sugestions naturally Thanks
342567
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
The OP states he has removed the float bowl screws and yet is still receiving posts about how to remove them. Amazing how people will post without reading what has already been posted.

OP - with the bowl off, and everything removed from the body that can be removed, try soaking that screw with penetrating oil over a period of several days. Like give it a squirt every other hour or so until the fluid is coming out the bottom. Rig it up in a vice so that the screw is vertical and the hole forms a pool. After the fluid is leaking out of the bottom, hit it with some heat and then a reverse drill.

One thing to consider is the carb body has a seat for the idle mixture screw. After everything is done, there is a good possibility the seat will be destroyed.

As for those cheap, horrible, awful chinese carbs. Keep in mind that most of the posters here have never had one in their hands. I have. The guts are cheap, but the castings are very good. The two that I had accepted every oem part needed to complete them. Just saying.

Oh, and about those float bowl screws, this is what you should do.........Hahahah.

Good luck.
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
The OP states he has removed the float bowl screws and yet is still receiving posts about how to remove them. Amazing how people will post without reading what has already been posted.

OP - with the bowl off, and everything removed from the body that can be removed, try soaking that screw with penetrating oil over a period of several days. Like give it a squirt every other hour or so until the fluid is coming out the bottom. Rig it up in a vice so that the screw is vertical and the hole forms a pool. After the fluid is leaking out of the bottom, hit it with some heat and then a reverse drill.

One thing to consider is the carb body has a seat for the idle mixture screw. After everything is done, there is a good possibility the seat will be destroyed.

As for those cheap, horrible, awful chinese carbs. Keep in mind that most of the posters here have never had one in their hands. I have. The guts are cheap, but the castings are very good. The two that I had accepted every oem part needed to complete them. Just saying.

Oh, and about those float bowl screws, this is what you should do.........Hahahah.

Good luck.
That's excellent first hand info about the ***** carbs. If the castings are that good I may go that route with good guts.Again thanks for the heads up!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Hey all you that replied to my call for help. That idle screw is in there good and stripped. I'll deal with it some other time, F it. I checked ebay and bought a used one that even has the bracket for the cruise control, not that I ever use it. I already have all the rebuild goodies so that' where I'm at. I'm fairly new to this site and am quite happy with the repsonse for help I received. THANK YOU ALL!
 
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