[tall terry]

What burnse66 said... I concur

 

[springer-]

It sounds like you are missing the 12v supply to the coil. Normally you would have 12v to the coil (according to your wiring diagram) from the ignition post on your new wiring module. Then that same terminal supplies 12v to the ignition module. The other side of the coil (negative) gets a trigger wire from the module that causes the coil to fire. As burnse66 stated, sounds like you are missing the white wire to the coil (12v power feed).

In a single fire mode the power from the ignition goes to the center tap on the coil. Also on the center tap is power to the ignition module. The 2 outside terminals get a Front and Rear Trigger wire.

 

[Zenriverman]

To burnse6,
I'm trying to understand your post #19 what I have coming from the S E module are three wires a White, pink, and violet. The way I wired then are as follows, The white runs from the module to the front lug on the coil. The pink runs from the module to the rear lug on the coil. The violet goes to the VOES. I have a brown wire running from the motogadget ignition directly to the coil front lug where the white wire is connected. I have a brown wire connected to the motogadget lock input it goes to one side of the switch coming out of the switch another brown wire goes to the motogadget battery connection.
So what do I do with the pink wire when I turn on the switch I get voltage on both the white and pink I should note that I think my ignition is a dual fire system so my coil doesn't have but two lugs.

 

[Scotty_No1]

DTT readily admits heat will kill the unit.
AS stated one has to know what the temps are or the prescribed instructions for most anything.
To ignore them is to have problems. (with anything)
If my temps did get too high I would get the stand-alone unit that mounts elsewhere.
Spark plug, oil temps , head temps should be noted once in awhile
If we have a performance bike we should have the AFR unit installed as part of the system or we are just guessing at a lot of different things.
Lean mixes will cause high temps as retarded timing will.
Everyone should invest in a quality heat temp gun as part of their tool kit

I have all that AFR meter and infra red heat gun I still won't use a DTT as you are missing my point I have had 2 fail which DTT blamed on heat BUT the motor runs no hotter than a stocker and the Dyna 2000i lives there very comfortably with no problems. Regardless of everything you are stating explain why 2 failed and got blamed on heat when the bike runs as cool if not cooler than a stocker and the Dyna 2000i works fine and has done for nearly 4 years now. I used to like DTT and used quite few external units on twin cams and a lot of them are still running fine BUT I will not use their internal units ever again after the run around I got when 2 failed within 3 months of each other and they refused warranty.

 

[burnse66]

Here is an Early 1984 FXRS schematic. Looks like two white wires to one side of the coil. That makes it a daisy-chain. One is from the STOP-RUN switch, the other goes to the module.
Other side of coil has pink wire going to (you guessed it) the tachometer, and a blue from the module.
I will elaborate more on this tomorrow, because I'm done for today. If by chance, your bike happens to be a late 1984 model, you can wait until later tomorrow for a similar scan...LMK

Goodnight!

 

[Zenriverman]

Thanks B
I have a early 84 FXRS so I go with the short guide and the Idle (with spring) goes in the tallest guide.

 

[burnse66]

In this post, I wasn’t referring to the “throttle cable” issue, but rather the “no spark” problem. The attached schematic does nothing for your cables...🤔

 

[Zenriverman]

Well it was a instruction sheet from S&S regarding the e carb cable guides and it helped me fix mine so thanks. The PDF says wiring diagram but it must have been named incorrectly.

 

[burnse66]

Okay...
I just reopened the one in the post and it’s definitely a wiring diagram, which I scanned last night from my service manual, but whatever...
Good luck...👍

 

[Zenriverman]

B
My bag as you say the diagram you posted is correct would explain my mistake but its to imbarsing. As for the no spark problem I rechecked all my SE wiring again for the gazillion time and found the black ground wire was not making proper ground. Fixed it and now have spark on both CIL. Thanks for your patience and help I rally appreciate it. For someone like me trying to learn at age 77 sometimes it takes awhile but I don't give up easily.

 

[burnse66]

Nothing embarrassing about finding the problem...
Good luck in your adventure, and keep us posted!

Special Ed

 

[Scotty_No1]

As for the no spark problem I rechecked all my SE wiring again for the gazillion time and found the black ground wire was not making proper ground.

Actually the M-unit you are using for your wiring is very specific in the instructions about proper grounds and for a very good reason as you have found out.