You can replace just the plastic pads with some quality after market pieces for a few bucks and be good for a while.


Sent from here.

 

I have installed the Cyco shoes on several twin cam engines and have had great luck using them and no premature failures. I do generally inspect them around 25 to 30,000 miles. Hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the cam plate

 

Check out Cycogaskets.com They sell the correct upgraded shoe. You don't need to go the route of the hydraulic plate. Just take care of your bike and check the shoes every 10k miles.

 

If you don't put a lot of miles on it and don't mind checking the shoes now and then, I wouldn't spend the dinero. I went with a gear drive on my '04 Road King while doing some engine upgrades and haven't had any issues in the last 40,000 miles or so. YRMV

 

Just replace the shoes and buff the chain.

 

Thermodyne, what year did HD change the chain?

 

IIRC, 06 on the Dyna and 07 on the rest.

 

So, chains were upgraded with the hydraulic plate then. Can you explain the difference in the chains? Doesn't wear just polish them anyways? Is there an "upgraded" chain for the earlier models? Just a "plug n play"?

 

I'd replace the caged stock inner bearings with quality full compliment bearings which ever way you decide to go with the tensioners.

 

The stock setup works but I'd get 'em out of my bike asap.
I have absolutely no verification and havent looked for support of the theory, but believe those springs have too much tension and cause unnecessary lateral stress on the cam bearings.
I could be way off base, totally wrong, but that's okay. I've done things way more costly than improving the cam chest of a motorcycle because of being wrong.

 

Thanks for you input guys. Great information here!! Probably spend the money for the special tools and check the shoes every once in a while. Someone mentioned Cycogaskets. Do they sell quality stuff equal to James Gaskets. Their top and bottom kit seems fairly cheap.

 

CYCO Gaskets are good quality and make different types. I've not encountered any problems with them. If you've got the time to wait a few days for them to ship.

 

I've always been against starting a machine off season, for the condensation point.
I was taking to a skidoo guy who starts his in summer, I watches gauge, might even recommended. He gets it hot enough. I question is it really hot enough.

But my old truck was running good, until I parked if for summer one year. Then started leaking.

You would like to think they would build these season items to withstand that. But I am not convinced they care.

 

I've always been against starting a machine off season, for the condensation point.
I was taking to a skidoo guy who starts his in summer, I watches gauge, might even recommended. He gets it hot enough. I question is it really hot enough.

But my old truck was running good, until I parked if for summer one year. Then started leaking.

You would like to think they would build these season items to withstand that. But I am not convinced they care.

Usually operating temp (200-220⁰F) at a minimum of 20 minutes. I like 45 mins to an hour. But if any condensation is noticed it's always best to change the oil and filter. I can't stress this enough with my 81 yr old mother in law. She just keeps starting her old truck once a week and lets it idle for 20 minutes. NOT good enough! LOL!

 

Is that discoloration in the outer race a big deal? I don't know the answer. It is not the area seeing movement

 

I would be reluctant to go gears on anything after 2002, but guys do. The new style does seem better. I would consider retrofit kit. But it also comes down to if you don't ride much maybe not a big deal.

You can cut the pushrods and look pull cam, so you can see inside pads. You can also pull rockers to do it. New gaskets and seal might not be a bad thing for your bike, depending on age. Neither is hard, but neigher is something I feel like doing. Which is why I do think about retro kit and forget about it for 50k or so.

But replacing pads, for some peeople may get you 10 years.

Of course good time for big bore and cams, labor wise.

 

You are more dedicated than me. I M not changing oil for condensation but just going to ride soon. Maybe I am negligent.

I try to avoid short rides, especially fall and spring.

But I do wonder know which is worse, with respect to drying out seals. Granted engines are more expensive. But how long does do you need to run for both

 

Never had an issue with seals or gaskets in that respect. I had bikes sit in storage for a year and no problems.

 

Sure it had over 200k miles,but it wasn't spraying gas when I parked it.

No one will tell you it is good to park something

 

The best is gear drive if pinion runout allows

 

Just changed mine to the new pale yellow shoes at 26,000 miles, outside shoe badly worn, inside ok. Remember, when inserting the cam chest, that the inner shoe tension must be relaxed with a screwdriver, or 3/16” thick long piece of bamboo wedged between the inside cam lobes, or the camshaft ends WILL NOT go back into their bearings. I spent 3 hrs finding this out. See pict. I also sanded flat the chain backside, polished, flushed with solvent, and re-oiled. I suspect the new shoes will not wear as badly as the OEM items now.

 

You installed the plate with the sprockets on? Confused.....

 

If you had a descent manual you would have seen there are small holes in which a tool, I used long allen wrenches, can be inserted to hold back the tensioners, then removed once the plate is installed,

 

Thanks for the input! Nice job. Regarding that backside shoe. I think there is a hole where you install a pin to hold that shoe open from the front of the plate. Did you cut you pushrods or remove them?

 

Yes, you can also lock the tensioner open by using a pin or nail through the hole, but let the shoe down gently when you remove pin.
I kind of like non-adjustable pushrods, so I removed rockers & covers. Up to you.

 

Is this a picture of the plate being installed? If so,, how did you align the oilpump to the crank with the gears already installed. The plate must be installed and tightened down,, before the pump can be tightened down.

 

Sorry, plate with cams (and oil pump) installed first, then sprockets and outer chain. I didn’t disturb the 4 oil pump screws during shoe replacement, so oil pump not an issue. Not necessary to remove/mess with oil pump if you leave those 4 srews alone.