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New enclosed trailer preference

6.2K views 38 replies 19 participants last post by  bbally  
#1 ·
Looking to buy an enclosed trailer to haul my 2 SG anyone have a preference on the footage I should get 12' 14' single axel or duel 6' or 7' wide my bikes are still laid up for the winter and was wondering what you guys think.
 
#2 ·
i have a 7 x 14 "interstate", tandem axle is the only way to go imo. electric brakes are as well. there's a lot of good brands out there, check the floor ruggedness (word?) lol,, also check how the roof is laid. mine is used to house and haul plumbing and heating material and it hauls a heavy load excellent. the tandem allows you to load and unload without being hooked to the truck not to mention it tracks so well you forget its back there.. jmho.
 
#3 ·
Trailers

I have 2 enclosed trailers and here are my comments:

Big one -- 16' by 7' Tandem w/brakes. In the process of getting a bigger one. I use mine for all kinds of things. One of the biggest questions is what are you going to pull it with and will you use it for anything else? If you have big diesel vehicles and 8' trailer is great but they are too wide to see around. I find a 7' is a nice compromise even thought I have diesel vehicles.

Small one 10'x6' single axle with no brakes. This is a very handy trailer. It was a demo when I bought it and I've had it for 22 years! It's been to bike week several times and moved my family all over the country. Will only fit 1 bike in it though.

To answer your question, I would get a 14' x 7' trailer and put the wheel chocks in so you can stagger the bikes a little. Even then you will probably have to take the saddle bags off and it will be crowded. If you have a big diesel vehicle I would get an 8' wide trailer. Regardless of width, I would absolutely get tandem axles. It's no fun having a blow out with a single axle (been there).

If you have any other questions let me know. It's amazing how useful a trailer is once you own it.

Good luck
 
#6 ·
:whisper:Is this a short term or long term investment? Whatever you get, from experience do strongly recommend tandem axle. Tandem axle tracks way much more better and if any tire pukes on you it will be controllable. That's MHO. :USA:
 
#7 ·
Mine are both Wells Cargo and have the "Nose Cone" on the front. I also bought Torsion axles which seem to ride better. The big one has an electric jack... love that thing

Based on your truck I would not get an 8' trailer. Sucks too much air. Stick with a 7' and get a 14-16' long and you will be fine (other than gas mileage)
 
#9 ·
I have one I use for my lawn service and use it for carry the bike from time to time...It is a 7x14 v-nose single without breaks and use a half ton truck to pull it...
 
#10 · (Edited)
Get a 7 X 14 and get tandem axles. Get torsion axles if you can.

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I load with a winch.

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#14 ·
Yes I like it.

I used to ride in. Then a buddy's RK broke down we wrestled it into the trailer. Next day harbor freight had the bad lander 4000 on sale. Put it in, never went back to riding them in.

Plus the things I did to my hips as a younger guy started to come back to haunt with age, so for me much safer and controlled.



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#16 ·
I don't use trailers nor have a winch in one but I have been using 4WD all my life with winches. A simple short looped strap around the front forks would work just fine. Cost is not that much at any good 4WD supply.
 
#18 ·
quote

Well got a price on a 7x14 duel axel electric brakes ramp door with transition flap 3/4 plywood floor 3/8 plywood walls air vents on the side 6'3" interior height 3600.00 out the door . I would have to buy the d rings for 25.00 bucks each and put them in. I seen them for 2900.00 on line but they are all in Georgia and I am in NY. I think it would cost the same by time I went to pick it up in Georgia.
 
#19 ·
Well got a price on a 7x14 duel axel electric brakes ramp door with transition flap 3/4 plywood floor 3/8 plywood walls air vents on the side 6'3" interior height 3600.00 out the door . I would have to buy the d rings for 25.00 bucks each and put them in. I seen them for 2900.00 on line but they are all in Georgia and I am in NY. I think it would cost the same by time I went to pick it up in Georgia.
Try looking around Elkhart, Indiana. Tons of trailer manufacturers in that area. Closer to you if you're in western NY. I found one at an independent trailer shop there a few years ago. Had some hail damage to to roof, but I scored that trailer pretty damn cheap.

Some things you can save by doing yourself. I'm not sure D-rings are one of those. Full length E-track is a good option, although additional expense very versatile.

If you found a stealer deal on a 102" I wouldn't pass it up just because of the extra width. You'll like that extra room if you have it.
 
#22 ·
One other thing to consider is that if you ever want to sleep in your trailer, you need a 7 foot wide to put an air mattress in head to foot, side to side. I have a 6 x 12 which works well for what we use it for but you have to put the mattress length wise with the trailer. I would get a 7ft wide if I were to do it again.
 
#23 ·
I just bought a Pro Line 7x14 v nose, rear ramp door and side door, dual axles and electric brakes $3099.00. perfect size for the for the ZTR mower and landscape equiptment but will also haul 2 bike no problem. Had to take a 10hr ride from CT to VA to get it though, all dealer near me wanted $6000.00
 
#24 ·
Nothing wrong with the specs offered up so far. But, single axle does have a couple of advantages not mentioned yet: They are easier to move by hand or lawn tractor if you have to park them in a tight spot; They cost less to buy and maintain.

The fear about a single axle tire blow causing handling trouble may be very overblown. I've had a tire blow on a single axle trailer pulling two Road Kings on the Interstate in the middle of the night, and the driver didn't even know it. (I was asleep in the passenger seat, and noticed sparks in the mirror upon waking up. Tire and wheel were both toast at that point.) Have also had a tire blow on the PWC trailer on a bridge over the MO river, with no place to pull over. Had to drive for a little ways like that, and it was no problem at all. In all 5 cases where I've had trailer tire problems at speed, it's never been a handling problem at all.

In the only case I've had where the tail wagged the dog and almost caused a jack knife accident, was with a dual axle trailer. My own fault: too little tongue weight, not enough notice of black ice. You can get in trouble with any trailer, but not as much as the rumors suggest.

Also, you really want a side door to access the load without dropping the tail gate.
 
#25 ·
#27 ·
Chart made some good points on weight and maneuverability. I still go back to basic math though. In a single axle trailer each tire supports 50% of the weight. In a tandem it's only 25% per tire.

I've had 2 blow outs in my 6x10 single axle. In both cases the fender was ripped off. In 1 case I retrieved it and in another a semi smashed it. Also, I would run tires a little longer with a tandem than a single.

The bottom line if you have to ask yourself:

-How are you going to use the trailer? (Weight, Frequency, etc)
-Can you afford a tandem?
-If you have problems will it ruin your trip to stop and deal with them?
-Is space to park the trailer an issue?

If I had to have only 1 it would be my bigger one
 
#28 ·
If I had to have only 1 it would be my bigger one
I agree. Here's the bad boy we took to Daytona.

53' X 102", go big or go home.
 

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#29 · (Edited)
Get a 8.5 x 16 Haulmark tandem trailer. They are V nose and have torsion axles. I have a 7 x 14 and wish I had one size bigger. The wider the better. If you want to carry two baggers together it is a LOT better. And you are always wishing you had 2 more feet of room. I love my 7 x 14 Haulmark tandem but just wish it was wider when I am hauling two baggers. And the extra 2 feet make for carrying odds and ends when towing the bikes less likely of coming lose and damaging the bikes. And I recommend Etrack instead of D rings. Infinitely more adjustable than D Rings. Also get a good set of wheel chocks. I bought Condors and can load and unload my bikes by myself. This is what I have found out.
DJ
 
#30 ·
Add another vote for easy track!

On the front of the trailer I put six of the Pickup Truck stake pocket tie holders through the floor with steel beneath. Gives me plenty of forward ratchet spots for ties holding into the chalk.
 
#34 ·
got the floor sealed now anyone know how to put a battery inside to run the lights when not hooked up but have it charged by my truck I have a 7 pin that has the ability. Plus maybe add a winch at some point
 
#35 ·
Put it in a battery box on the tongue of the trailer.

By a fuse block on amazon with 4 to 6 slots. Buy a positive and negative terminal block. Run cables from the battery through a bulk head fitting into the trailer to the blocks. Then run wire from the terminal block to the fuse block.

Fuse your outside loading spots through a switch at the side entrance door to both spot lights. Run led whites inside the trailer and run it through a separate switch by the side entrance door to the fuse block.

Wire the 2500 watt inverter directly to the positive and negative terminal block.

Bond the negative terminal block to the frame of the trailer.

Run a 12 gauge wire through your pig tail to the charge circuit of your 7 pin. Run the other end to the positive terminal of the battery. Make sure the ground pin on the 7 pin of your truck comes through the pig tail and is tied to the trailer frame.

Get the electric trailer jack from HF. Remove manual jack and wire in electric jack to the battery.
 
#39 ·
Yes this is good. I will take some pics of my power set up and post for you.