Dunno if this means a hill 'o beans, but...

Used to convert gov't surplus Waukesha tank engines to natural gas fuel for irrigation pumping. Even after cutting the heads and installing stellite valve seats and sintered bronze guides, the lack of any sort of lubricant in the fuel coupled with the high cylinder temperatures would cook the valves in short order.

MMO made an in-line drip injector to meter the secret stuff into the intake manifold throat. Made a dramatic impact on engine top end life. Honestly so....

Now'days I always keep a can in the shop 'cause it looks cool.

'04 Ultra
'78 Shovel
'71 Triumph T150
Older than all of 'em.​

 

I bought some heads on ebay and had them shipped to Atwood. He told me that they had so much carbon on them that he had to sandblast, and that took a lot of time. I would imagine that someone who just putts around town and doesn't open it up often, could have carbon buildup problems

 

George,

I pulled my engine down with 8000 miles to go BB. The amount of what I would call soft carbon on the pistions was surpising to me at the time. Amsoil had been run for 7000 of those miles.

Quite a few folks have seen the same carbon build up in these engines. I believe it's from the breather systems dumping the oil mist back into the intake.

I have been using a different product to address removal of this carbon on a regular basis, but I suspect that MMO will do the same.

I will know if it's working when I put some heads on it this winter.

I believe regular use of a carbon removing product is needed .

Anytime that you have carbon building up on the top of the piston it is normally a combustion/fueling problem and sometimes can even be caused by the type and octane of the gas being used. Also the cylinder head temperature plays a part in this. Some engines are prone to soft carbon build up and with these I use the Amsoil power foam sprayed into the intake system of a running warm engine. This cleans up carbon real well.

 

Anytime that you have carbon building up on the top of the piston it is normally a combustion/fueling problem and sometimes can even be caused by the type and octane of the gas being used. Also the cylinder head temperature plays a part in this. Some engines are prone to soft carbon build up and with these I use the Amsoil power foam sprayed into the intake system of a running warm engine. This cleans up carbon real well.

I would disagree with you on these reasons as it pertains to my engine. I believe it's the oil mist being put back into the intake. Isn't that oil in the mixture going to leave carbon behind? Just the fact that oil is now part of the mixture reduces the octain of said gas.


By the way, when I pulled the engine down it was VERY clean everywhere except the pistons and head chambers.

 

I would disagree with you on these reasons as it pertains to my engine. I believe it's the oil mist being put back into the intake. Isn't that oil in the mixture going to leave carbon behind? Just the fact that oil is now part of the mixture reduces the octain of said gas.


By the way, when I pulled the engine down it was VERY clean everywhere except the pistons and head chambers.

You are correct. when I made that statement and the original post I was thinking in general terms concerning using a clean up product for things like noisey lifters and stuck rings. When people add MMO and ATF like products to an engine of any type in the wrong ratios you will get soft carbon on top of the piston for sure. It is almost like running a 2 cycle engine and not getting a clean burn due to to much oil in the mix. If oil mist is being re-introduced in the combustion chamber it would be hard to not get some buildup. I should have been clearer on this as what I was really trying to point out is in most cases it is not necessary to use clean-up products just for preventive maintenance reasons when there is no apparent symtoms.

 

those Mercedes and Porsche engineers are mostly inept anyway.

And this is why I use MMO in my '81 300TD Turbo. Overcomes the ineptness of the Benz engineers when they designed one of the best diesel motors ever brought to the streets.

:boxin:

 

I have a '94 Dodge for my kid which is known for piston knock. There's even a TSB out of the knocking noise but no solution. After reading some posts a few months back on this forum about MMO, I decided what the heck. I put the prescribed amount in the fuel tank and after the first tank the noise disappeared. I was amazed. That car made that noise for about ten years and I just accepted the fact that is was a POS Dodge and had to live with it.

Like a lot of things, MMO has a place. Not sure if that place is in my vehicles that don't have issues that MMO will supposedly cure. I've had many cars and motorcycles over the past 25 years and never had to use additives except the occasional injector cleaner. To its credit, it did cure the knock on the POS Dodge.

 

I have a '94 Dodge for my kid which is known for piston knock. There's even a TSB out of the knocking noise but no solution. After reading some posts a few months back on this forum about MMO, I decided what the heck. I put the prescribed amount in the fuel tank and after the first tank the noise disappeared. I was amazed. That car made that noise for about ten years and I just accepted the fact that is was a POS Dodge and had to live with it.

Like a lot of things, MMO has a place. Not sure if that place is in my vehicles that don't have issues that MMO will supposedly cure. I've had many cars and motorcycles over the past 25 years and never had to use additives except the occasional injector cleaner. To its credit, it did cure the knock on the POS Dodge.

Do you have to keep putting the MMO in each tank? If so what you are basically doing is slowing the fuel burn down some and taking the slight knock out of the combustion process if that was what was knocking. I have done this same thing with fuel additives in engines that were right on the edge of pinging. Normally if the anti-knock sensor is working you won't get the noise, just poorer fuel economy as the timing is retarded slightly.

 

MMO has benefit in my opinion, and to me, that's all that matters. I was passed the tip about using it anout 25 yrs ago and have offered the same tip to others, and for them to draw their own conclusions. Does it help?? I can say without doubt it don't hurt, and what it does help is with a smoother running engine. When your strattled over two cylinders, you can really notice if a significant difference takes place, more so than a truck, car,etc.
Some say a cap full? It is hard to overdose on it (well, nothing is idiot proof) as I use it every fill up and pour in two or three ounces during a fill up. I use Amsoil in all other holes and have for years, but that is for bottom end and gears, heat rejection and friction. Valves, injectors and pistons, with todays Ethanol blended fuel, love added lube in my belief, Ethanol is basically a parts cleaner itself if you read up on it. I never mix MMO in my engine oil (on my bike) but have used the heck out of it over the years in my gas tank.
Lucas injector cleaner and top cyl. lube is good as well, just a little more pricey, but made for mostly the same reason.
All I can say is try it, with proof, you'll be a believer and hear the difference.
Years ago, back in the day when leaded gas was being phased out, everyone was looking for a lead substitute in forum. Someone said MMO has been out for years, what more could you want? Think about the whole scenerio with lead is gas, why was it there? For lubrication. When it was removed, anyone remember what had to happen to valves and seats in cylinder heads? They had to change composition of valves and seats to withstand removal of the lube (lead) or unleaded gas would destroy them (no cushion on the seats during closing).
I don't claim to be an engineer, but been a diesel mechanic all my working life of 40 yrs, and a Harley rider for the same.
Try it, and remember those who stood on the shore saying the earth is flat, you'll fall off Christopher !! Sometimes you just got to prove it to your self.

 

does anyone else remember back in the old days,people used to run a quart of atf down the carb,followed by water to de-carbon an engine? it was the cleaning agents in the atf that made it work.smoked like heck,but seemed to help.

this is perhaps the same thing? or close?

 

In fuel, yes.
In oil, no.

MMO is friction modifyers. In the primary it will make the clutch slip.

As a lubricant for the fuel pump and fuel system, it works great.

 

i have a 1948 chief as my main bike and have used it in every fuel re fill for a while, and this winter we took the engine all apart and i am sorry i did as it is as it was 15,000 miles ago - having a flathead motor almost no oil ends up on the valves it relied on leaded fuel and that is no longer available at the pump, so marvil does the job instead
and it really works for me -

 

I have also used the MMO, on acasion I'll add to fuel for the carburator, also use to lube my cables... Been around for awhile..

 

well,yesterday,on the way to work,I bought a bottle to try out in my old Saab.It's an 86 that sat for a few years till I resurrected it 3 yrs ago.I've been using it for a work car.it had over 200,000 before the odometer stopped working.I had already ran injector cleaner through it.

on the way home last night,sure seemed like it was running better..and I didn't expect the stuff to make any difference.

 

injector cleaner is not a lube and MMO is just that - put a set of rubber gloves on pick up a greasy part and ooze around some MMO you will be a supporter of it, its great stuff cleans and lubes -- just me take - un like the snake oil that is also sold -- jz

 

Ok, the bride picture was pretty good. I got a laugh out of that one. The picture of the can is a little scary. Who took the picture of the can of lube in the gas station bathroom? :redrolf:

 

I have used MMO in my 97 Harley, EVO for many years... The reason I started using it was early on, I decided to run 5Gal straight racing gas in my Harley...BAD IDEA! All the rubber in my stock carb was all but melted and my Pingel petcock was frozen. The racing gas damaged rubber would no longer allow it to turn on or off.

After new fresh normal gas and a new S&S carb I added some MMO to the tank. Within a mile the Pingel petcock fixed itself and was better than new! When I say better, not only would it now move, I could tell when turning on and off the gas now had a lubricant in it, slick as glass and has been slick as glass going on 20+ years! If your bike has a Petcock you need MMO and will thank me the first time you turn it on or off; its that noticeable!

Same Pingel and same S&S carb 20 years now with no rebuilds! I always use a mix of Sta-Bil, MMO and non-ethanol 91 gas in all my small engines..

 

I have used MMO in my 02 Rking.in gas tank and in oil ..run it for 100 miles.then change oil..this Hog has over 180 thousand miles on with no top end done Ever!!!..still runs like New..

 

Good stuff, always use this in oil tank right before oil change