You don't need it I have had no problems using regular wrenches

 

if youl got a harley you need a bench grinder! It should be an accessory thrown in at the closing table.:redrolf:

Becasue the idiots at the design table wont make the frame a 1/2 inch longer so you can access something without having to tear something out to get to it. Classic example Older softails you have to pull your starter to get the tranny cover off (which by the way you have to pull the primary to get the starter out) when they could have made the frame that 1/2 inch longer I mentioned to be able to access the top of the tranny to service the 2.00 spring at the end of a 7000 dollar power train. Back to the Grinder----needed to grind open ended wrenches to access stuff so you do not have to remove the whole GD thing.... Or grinding an allen down to get to your rocker boxes. Almost like the government oversaw the design of it! Again with the :redrolf:

 

I thought not, but I want to be able to replace my cams without having to wait for something I need but didn't get before starting.
Thanks!

 

:hystria:

hbmc

 

You don't, but you probably won't get tq wrench on everything. I used a dogbone for a few and nothing on others. I didn't have 1/4 drive ratchet then, but I bet they would sure help alot.

An electric pump for the gas tank would be nice. I strip down to my underwear, drain as much as I can into a bucket, and then hose everything off. I siphon some out before removing the crossover house too.

I use big ziploc bags and label them A B C D to correspond with manual, for taking apart, I also label front and rear. Probably doesn't matter, but they may mate together a little.


Its not hard, pretty much bolt on and off. Therre is debate about replacing oring at the base of the jugs once it has been disturbed. Doesn't make sense to me. But, I did my removed front head, and then that winter went back and did big bore. There was a chrome cover, covering base of jugs, so I don't know if the oil was there before I took it apart. I would think if you carefull why would disturb it, but don't know. Its PIA to replace too.

 

You don't, but you probably won't get tq wrench on everything. I used a dogbone for a few and nothing on others. I didn't have 1/4 drive ratchet then, but I bet they would sure help alot.

An electric pump for the gas tank would be nice. I strip down to my underwear, drain as much as I can into a bucket, and then hose everything off. I siphon some out before removing the crossover house too.

I use big ziploc bags and label them A B C D to correspond with manual, for taking apart, I also label front and rear. Probably doesn't matter, but they may mate together a little.


Its not hard, pretty much bolt on and off. Therre is debate about replacing oring at the base of the jugs once it has been disturbed. Doesn't make sense to me. But, I did my removed front head, and then that winter went back and did big bore. There was a chrome cover, covering base of jugs, so I don't know if the oil was there before I took it apart. I would think if you carefull why would disturb it, but don't know. Its PIA to replace too.

Too funny!!!! It hurts the laughter :redrolf:

Do you label your underwear too? Have you thought about turning your petcock off then putting a hose on it and then allowing the hose to siphon into a gas can? You never get petroleum products out of yoru body once you get them on you. And your skin is an organ.
Or was the whole thing a joke :beer:

 

If you read it, I do siphon out as much as I can. But that is how I do it, done it three times that way. Strip down, and then hose everything off when I done. Better doing it in the driveway and not the garage if you can.

 

1/4 in 12 point for rocker boxes.
ya dont have to pull the heads to swap cams so dont worry about the base gaskets.

 

Didn't pull my tank to change my cams. Just lifted it up about 2 inches. It's a pain to do but just pulled rocker cover and rocker arms off to change the cams. Used old pushrods. Took me all day but this is my first change on a Harley.

Barney Biker
07 EG

 

I'm only planning on doing something like Barney Biker did except I'm removing the tank. Cometic has a cam service kit that includes all the gaskets, o-rings, etc.

I do have the torque adapters so I can torque the rocker cover bolts.

 

I'd pull the tank, it will be alot more enjoyable job, then just tilting the tank. But thats me.

 

You don't need to pull the rocker cover off to change cams. Get adjustable push rods, cut the non adjustable out with some bolt cutters.

 

No...I've decided to keep the oem pushrods. I'm a cheap s.o.b.

 

Beserker you would pull the tank because you enjoy getting in your underwear :redrolf: It hurts (the laughter) but right you are the tank removal makes it much easier to access the the allens on top. But you can cheat it by removing the front bolt and top bcak one and loosen the top front and tilt it as barny stated

 

Mikevr700
You may have checked already, but do you know if the base circle of your new cams is the same as your old cams? If they aren't the same your stock push rods may or may not work.

Good Luck
Bruggy55

 

I'm trusting the mfg (Andrews) that the base circles are the same as the stock cams and that the stock push rods can stay.

 

yeah Bruggy may be right on spot about that.... also are you going with the exact same lift? Because if I am not mistaken the OEM's are cut to fit and color coded so you know which goes where which leaves me to believe you may not get the right adjustment needed for spring load (the pressure when closed) as well as the right open and close a half a turn on an adjustable is not much but can keep the valve from closing all the way and getting an improper seat and of course won't fire right, Just a thought? As far as Beserker goes the Cancer joke was in poor taste as I have had my chemo therapy and have put a few young friends in the ground but what do you expect from someone who answers a post without knowing what he is talking about... he probably is stripping down to his underwear to do an oil change

 

That's why I used my stock push rods. Just one more thing you don't have to worry about coming loose.

Barney Biker
07 EG

 

Mikevr007
Sounds like you've done your homework! I often times have to find out things like this the hard way! Another thing you should think about if you haven't already is to change out the inner INA bearings to the full compliment Torrington type, since you're going to be in the cam chest anyway.
Good Luck!
Bruggy55

 

Well, I've read about that. But I've also read that the late model oem inner cam bearings are not as big of a problem as some have suggested. And, since I have less than 10k on my bike I'm not that concerned anyway.

Oh, ya...and I'm a cheap s.o.b.

 

Well I'll be Hornswoggled and upsold wonder if they could have worked for my Crane Cam? Hmmm...... Homework assignment. Love this place always learning something.:clap:

 

sure they would have
unless you took a hog cut off your heads LOL

 

BTW, the '08 doesn't have a crossover hose. Just pop off the Fuel injector hose, take out the bolts, unplug the wiring and vent hose, and pull it off the bike. Won't spill a drop.

 

I did a CAM swap a few months ago and decided to pull the rocker boxes to save money and reuse the pushrods.......that will be the last time I do that.

Got about 1/2 gallon of gas all over me the bike and garage floor getting the tank off. And getting to those rear bolts is a PIA.

Next time I will just spend the ~$150 for adjustable and save myself about 6hrs.

 

I would probably change the bearings out too.
I kept my stock pushrods, but I had the engine apart. I don't know why people go to adj push rods when doing a big bore, with .510 lift. Never have to worry about them comming loose.

But if I go to a cam in 96", without doing head work, I would probably do adj rods. No worries of leaks, and quicker. Got subtract price of gaskets too.

 

Is a rocker wrench required

Please excuse the ugly welds. (Wasn't planning on entering a wrench show). LOL

VERY functional and allows for a torque wrench.

 

Please excuse the ugly welds. (Wasn't planning on entering a wrench show). LOL

VERY functional and allows for a torque wrench.

Ed: As a welder, I can't excuse those welds. Never the less it does it's job. I take it you recalibrate the torque wrench for the extra lever? Don't remember the formula off hand.
Ron

 

oh man I am a bad boy I go by feel LOL I torque one or two of em feel what the tightness is and hope to hit it on the tough to get to spots. I figure with the range of grunts and farts required to tighten something can be detected by the amount of pressure. Just the start of tight with a wrench and a little grunt is about 14lbs LOL:hystria: It's a motor with a gasket not a piano or guitar string. Still going after 18 years on this one.

 

Don't get me wrong, I have my moments of crude when all else fails, but will give it a shot to do it right if possible.
Ron

 

It's a motor with a gasket not a piano or guitar string.

I follow torque specs (and sequence) like a bible.

Can't remember the last leaky gasket I have had. Decades involved I am sure.

Ed: As a welder, I can't excuse those welds. Never the less it does it's job. I take it you recalibrate the torque wrench for the extra lever? Don't remember the formula off hand.
Ron

A guy at work did it for me the day before my first use of it. He wasn't real happy about getting interrupted. LOL I was glad to have the wrench.

Yeah, I follow "the formula" of course.
However, if you have it at 90º there is no formula (as if the extension is not there).

I have a copy of the formula if anyone needs it.




.

 

Ed: You are correct, the 90* cancels it out. Totally forgot that . Always doing it the hard way for some reason.

 

Here are a few of my torquing solutions. Second from the bottom is an adapter (they come in 3 sizes for 1/4, 3/8, 1/2) that I bought at sears. They fit on/in a socket and have a hex to use a wrench on. IIRC the one I needed was a 3/8 wrench on that adapter. I put the wrench on that adapter and the 3/8 open end fit perfectly on the 3/8 drive part of my torque wrench.