I just installed the Baisley oil relief valve spring in my 04 Road King Classic and can't believe the difference it made in valve train noise. The on again, off again "ticking" while cruising is now gone. Thanks to HDWRENCH, GROCK, and the many others who submit invaluable information to solve our problems. So much information for so few dollars to join-VTWINFORUM rocks!!!!!!!

Glad to hear your happy with the results of the spring.......now when you hear of some one saying... '' that noise is normal".... you can laugh too!

 

I just installed the Baisley oil relief valve spring in my 04 Road King Classic and can't believe the difference it made in valve train noise. The on again, off again "ticking" while cruising is now gone. Thanks to HDWRENCH, GROCK, and the many others who submit invaluable information to solve our problems. So much information for so few dollars to join-VTWINFORUM rocks!!!!!!!

How difficult was the installation? Something that can be accomplished by a novice?

 

How difficult was the installation? Something that can be accomplished by a novice?

A novice could do it in 1 hour....peice of cake.

 

Unless your wife calls you into the house right after you remove the old spring and you plan on running right back, but she holds you up for an hour and when you return you have 3 quarts of oil on the floor to clean up

 

A novice could do it in 1 hour....peice of cake.

Thanks. Can you tell me where the spring is located and what (basically) is involved with the install. I've got a factory manual - just point me in the right direction.

 

How difficult was the installation? Something that can be accomplished by a novice?

It's really not that difficult. Here are some quick instructions for a Road King Classic:

1) Remove right side floorboard.
2) Remove right side hard bag.
3) Remove right side exhaust. (Note: It helps to spray the header flange bolts and muffler-to-header joint with a good "liquid penetrant" spray a couple of hours prior to disassembly.
4) Drain oil. Note: Not sure if this is required but I needed to change my oil anyway.
5) Remove cam cover. Note: Take care in removing cam cover screws! Mine had some type of Loctite on them and I had to work them in and out slowly until they turned freely.
6) Drive the existing roll pin out using a 1/8" pin punch. Note: Drive the roll pin out slowly and make sure you catch it when it comes out.
7) Take a small hook and pull the old spring out enough that you can roll it past the cam chain tensioner spring. Note: Getting the old spring out enough so you can spin it out can be tricky.
8) Install the new spring and roll pin. Note: It is much eaiser to have help on this step. Have one person hold the spring past the roll pin hole using a small screwdriver. The other person can drive the roll pin thru. I used a new roll pin and turned the split away from the spring.
9) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be extra careful while torquing the cam cover screws. It is very easy to crack your case or strip theads if you over-torque the screws. I used a quality torque wrench (Snap-On) and torqued to 95 in-lbs. using 4 passes in the order specified in the service manual. I started out at 25 in. lbs. first pass, 65 in. lbs. second pass, 95 in. lbs. third pass and check pass.
10) Don't forget to refill with oil!!!!!

Hope this helps if you decide to do it yourself. It does take a little bit of mechanical skill. Old hdmd88 has been wrenching so long that everything seems simple to him!!!!! What'da ya say Old Coot???????? Anything you can add to these instructions to help him out???

 

It's really not that difficult. Here are some quick instructions for a Road King Classic:

1) Remove right side floorboard.
2) Remove right side hard bag.
3) Remove right side exhaust. (Note: It helps to spray the header flange bolts and muffler-to-header joint with a good "liquid penetrant" spray a couple of hours prior to disassembly.
4) Drain oil. Note: Not sure if this is required but I needed to change my oil anyway.
5) Remove cam cover. Note: Take care in removing cam cover screws! Mine had some type of Loctite on them and I had to work them in and out slowly until they turned freely.
6) Drive the existing roll pin out using a 1/8" pin punch. Note: Drive the roll pin out slowly and make sure you catch it when it comes out.
7) Take a small hook and pull the old spring out enough that you can roll it past the cam chain tensioner spring. Note: Getting the old spring out enough so you can spin it out can be tricky.
8) Install the new spring and roll pin. Note: It is much eaiser to have help on this step. Have one person hold the spring past the roll pin hole using a small screwdriver. The other person can drive the roll pin thru. I used a new roll pin and turned the split away from the spring.
9) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be extra careful while torquing the cam cover screws. It is very easy to crack your case or strip theads if you over-torque the screws. I used a quality torque wrench (Snap-On) and torqued to 95 in-lbs. using 4 passes in the order specified in the service manual. I started out at 25 in. lbs. first pass, 65 in. lbs. second pass, 95 in. lbs. third pass and check pass.
10) Don't forget to refill with oil!!!!!

Hope this helps if you decide to do it yourself. It does take a little bit of mechanical skill. Old hdmd88 has been wrenching so long that everything seems simple to him!!!!! What'da ya say Old Coot???????? Anything you can add to these instructions to help him out???

Thanks. Sounds simple enough. Now i just need to order the spring.

 

Who carries this spring and what exactly does it do?

 

I got mine in the mail today

Baisley Hi-Performance
5511 N. Interstate Ave.
Portland Oregon 97217
(503)289-1251

Part number is LMR-002
for 1999 and later Twin Cam A and B motors

As quoted from instruction sheet:

*Increases oil pressure-15%, typicly 5lbs
*Quiet running motor
*More progressive spring rise
*Use in any TC A or B motor, even stock
*A Must Have for cams requiring higher valve spring pressure
*Restored oil pressure throughout the oiling system when using high volume piston cooling jets and high performance and race tolerances
*Squared and ground ends for less variance in installed length and pressure
*Designed, engineered and manufactured to our (Baisely's) specs for this application-not a "hardware store" spring


A version for Evo is available too.

 

How many money?? And, does it REALLYquiet up the "clatter" in the top end? I have an '03 FLHTC with 24,000 miles on her. S&S 510G cams. Will it be harder to install the spring since I do not have the cam chain? Can I sneak it behind the gear?? :chopper:

 

How many money?? And, does it REALLYquiet up the "clatter" in the top end? I have an '03 FLHTC with 24,000 miles on her. S&S 510G cams. Will it be harder to install the spring since I do not have the cam chain? Can I sneak it behind the gear?? :chopper:

$12.95. I can't tell you if it really works because I just ordered one yesterday to put in to try to attempt to quieten my noisy top end when the bike is hot. However, all the testimonials sure make me believe that it is gonna make a difference. The spring will be easier to install with gear drive because the tensioner is no longer in your way.

 

Just finished installing my Baisely Spring tonight. Took me longer than expected, had to fight with the mid-controls, one of my exhaust studs came out, and the guy that installed my cam used a full bottle of red loctite on the cam cover bolts.

Good news is, I DID IT! Total of about 2 hours, but I got it done. Can't wait to ride it to work tommorow and see how it feels. Took the opportunity to rid myself of the SE breather hoses as well. Rerouted my breathers over near the tranny vent. I'll prolly change that in a week or two, after I get some more fuel line. I ran out at a critical juncture, and had to make due with a shorter than ideal vent hose. Total length from end of hose to breathers is at least 18", so I think I'm ok, but will extend it later just incase

 

How many money?? And, does it REALLYquiet up the "clatter" in the top end? I have an '03 FLHTC with 24,000 miles on her. S&S 510G cams. Will it be harder to install the spring since I do not have the cam chain? Can I sneak it behind the gear?? :chopper:

YES...it really works. Instead of sounding like rattling, ticking, clatter, mine now sounds smooth like a sewing machine.

 

B. Spring

How does this spring compare to putting in a Fueling Super Pump? When you put in one of the super pumps, the destructions have you pull out the stock spring, measure it, and stretch it .050" and put it back in. I put this pump in when I did gear drive cams this winter and have had no problems, but now that the temps are up, the top end is rattling a slight bit. I know it's nothing to worry about, especially with roller rockers in there making their little tinkle noises, but I'm getting ready to switch cams, and might try this spring.

 

How does this spring compare to putting in a Fueling Super Pump? When you put in one of the super pumps, the destructions have you pull out the stock spring, measure it, and stretch it .050" and put it back in. I put this pump in when I did gear drive cams this winter and have had no problems, but now that the temps are up, the top end is rattling a slight bit. I know it's nothing to worry about, especially with roller rockers in there making their little tinkle noises, but I'm getting ready to switch cams, and might try this spring.

Did the Baisley spring a few weeks ago and it made the motor noticeably quieter. Just did about 500 miles riding 2 up and loaded. Lots of mountains in
90 plus degrees heat. The noise seemed to pick up a bit but nothing like
before.
The Baisley spring is a bit longer than stock but is wound much tighter.
Approximately double. I'm not sure what it would buy you but I'm thinking
if Fueling had you stretch the stock spring, then the Baisley might be a good thing.

 

This sounds GREAT. Do they have a website????

Thanks

 

This sounds GREAT. Do they have a website????

Thanks

Don't think so. Call them at 503 289 1251.

Good folks.

 

Do you need to drain the oil?

So is draining the oil necessary? I just changed my and don't really feel like draining it.

 

So is draining the oil necessary? I just changed my and don't really feel like draining it.

No. You will only use a few ounces outta the bottom of the engine. The rest is in the oil tank or oil pan.

 

Any side effects reported; like oil venting out the aircleaner?

 

Any side effects reported; like oil venting out the aircleaner?

None on any of my bikes and I beat the crap out of the Night Train.

 

Just curious...I read the other threads on this topic...are there any instructions of any kind with the spring? Sounds like a simple installation...just wondering if any documentation comes with the spring. Thanks

 

Just curious...I read the other threads on this topic...are there any instructions of any kind with the spring? Sounds like a simple installation...just wondering if any documentation comes with the spring. Thanks

Yes, it comes with instructions.

 

I don't want to sound too stupid but what exactly does this spring do??
I have intermittent ticking noise and if this would help I would try it. If all it does is increase oil pressure to the upper cylinder head then I wonder if the oil pump is getting weak.

 

I don't want to sound too stupid but what exactly does this spring do??
I have intermittent ticking noise and if this would help I would try it. If all it does is increase oil pressure to the upper cylinder head then I wonder if the oil pump is getting weak.

What the spring does is increase pressure on the bypass valve. Making it harder to open. If the spring is set for 38lbs, then when the oil pressure hits 38lbs it opens the valve and doesn't allow any more pressure to build up. If you change the spring with a stiffer spring the valve opens up later and cause the oil pressure to rise. If it is set for 40lbs, the valve will then open at 40lbs. This increased oil pressure helps keep the lifters pumped up a little stronger and thus keeps the noise down.

The old way was to stretch a spring but that yields unreliable results. Another way to increase the oil pressure in the twin cam is to simply put a washer between the stock spring and the roll pin that holds it in. This effectively increases the spring pressure. You can actually shim the stock spring for whatever oil pressure you desire. Start with a single .050 washer.

 

Is this worth doing on a stck Police RoadKing ?????