This job might take a half hour to an hour. On a table lift would be easiest. The key is to get the oil height correct. Most shop manuals will show two procedures.

The easy way is to simply drain and replace with a pre-measured amount of oil.

A more accurate way is to measure the oil level from the top of the tube. There are some inexpensive tools available to do this. Think large syringe, hose a rigid tube.

You could buy the fluid from the dealer, but there are better fluids available. RedLine and BellRay come to mind. Just be sure and match the oil weight to your application.

 

This job might take a half hour to an hour. On a table lift would be easiest. The key is to get the oil height correct. Most shop manuals will show two procedures.

The easy way is to simply drain and replace with a pre-measured amount of oil.

A more accurate way is to measure the oil level from the top of the tube. There are some inexpensive tools available to do this. Think large syringe, hose a rigid tube.

You could buy the fluid from the dealer, but there are better fluids available. RedLine and BellRay come to mind. Just be sure and match the oil weight to your application.

I have a jack stand no table lift, what I meant is if I use my jack stand this means the front wheel will be off the ground or is that a definite no-no?? ,or just take it up a few inches to relieve tension? , bike/weight on the ground when refilling?, also do you mean injecting the new oil back in through the drain plugs without undoing top cap nuts?

will go with RedLine oil

 

It will not make a difference if the front wheel is hanging or on the ground.

No, I did not mean anything about injecting oil through the drain holes. Whichever way you use, the new oil is still going into the top of the tubes.

What I was reffering to is how much oil is going into the tubes. You can premeasure and pour it, and that will get you close, but leaves allot of room for variation. The other way involves putting in more oil than is needed. And then using a suction tool that you can set the depth on to suck the oil down to a set height. This way will ensure the oil is at the correct height and that both tubes have the same amount of oil (and air above the oil).

A simple google search on fork oil tool will show many examples of the tool I am refering to. It goes into the hole in the top of the tube. Set the height on the tool, suck and the oil level will be set. This method provides very repeatable results.

 

more good info... as I do have a 2000 Dyna Wide Glide FXDWG (12 oz. wet?)

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/harley-davidson-dyna/117728-amount-fork-oil.html

 

Or get a manual and do it correctly.

 

What?

You'll need to explain how measuring the amount of oil in each tube leaves room for variation. Not sure how else to say it, but if you put pour x in each tube, x is what you've got. There's no variation. And you don't need to suck oil from that top.

 

I think what you are asking about is measuring the oil before pouring it in.

If that is the case, you are not measuring the oil in the fork. You are measuring the oil in the cup.

Not all of the old oil drains out of the tubes. When the new oil is measured, like in a measuring cup, not all of it pours. It sort of sticks to the cup. Harley even has its own tool for doing this. Sort of looks like this one:

Motion Pro Fork Oil Tool

Besides precision, the root differences between the two techniques is one is measuring the oil in a cup the other is measuring the oil in the tube. The difference to some might not be an issue.

 

Just found my Haynes HD Twin Cam 88 ('99-'03 models) manual, thought I had it loaned out, anyhowz... it states 12.0 fl oz. for each fork tube on the FXDWG models only, did not realize all the variations for FX's, also states that a baby bottle will work fine for measuring exact amounts, 12 oz.'s seem pretty basic, a clean empty oil quart container with the clear oz. side measurements will prolly work fine also. , this manual makes this job a piece o' cake ! ...will just go a tushy hair under the 12 oz. mark to make up difference of what doesn't drain out, that'll work for me.

thanks for all the help...you guys rock !! :band:

 

I have a 97 WG,this is how I do it...first crack the drain plugs (not all new models have these,I think 2000s do) then have someone hold a drainpan while you sit on the bike and 'pump' the forks to get the oil out (OK I admit it wont all come out) replace drain plugs.

Then while still on ground crack the top chrome nuts (I have a thin socket with O ring to protect chrome) jack up front,remove top caps (good thing with the WG is the springs wont fly out).I measure correct amount into a measuring jug (check workshop manual for your amount,,,usually 2, one wet one dry ie fully disassembled) also I use a grade thicker than standard,plus add an extra OZ per leg...I like it a little stiffer
Replace topcaps and test ride.....

 

The easiest method is to measure the oil and add after emptying the old oil. If you use the measurement method then you have to remove the springs and then compress the tube into the slider and then measure the oil form the the top of the tube to the oil level. In other words a pain in the a$$. If you don't have drain screws add then while you have things apart so the next time is easier.

 

manual states...
FORK oil-replacement:

1. This procedure applies to the damper rod forks used on Softails and all Dyna models except the FXDX and FXDX-T. Changing the fork oil on cartridge forks (used on FXDX, FXDX-T and the left fork leg on FLHT models) requires partial disassembly of the fork (see Chapter 5).

2. Prop the motorcycle securely upright. Position a jack with a block of wood on the jack head under the engine to support the motorcycle when the fork caps are removed.

3. Unscrew the fork tube caps (all except Dyna FXDL) or center plugs (Dyna FXDL), taking care to release the spring pressure slowly (see illustration).

4. Place a pan beneath the drain screw, then remove the drain screw and washer. (see illustration).

5. After most of the oil has drained, slowly compress and release the forks to pump out the remaining oil. An assistant will most likely be required to do this procedure.

6. Check the drain screw gasket for damage and replace it if necessary. Clean the threads of the drain screw with solvent and let it dry, then install the screw and gasket, tightening it securely.

7. Pour the type and and amount of fork oil listed in the Chapter's Specifications into the fork tube through the opening at the top (see illustration). Remove the jack from under the engine and slowly pump the forks a few times to purge the air from the upper and lower chambers.

8. Check the plug seal and replace it if it's damaged or detriorated (see illustration). Install the cap, push it down against the spring pressure, and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

9. Repeat the procedure on the other fork. Note that it is essential that the oil quantity and level is identical in each fork.

in my case,,, '00 FXDWG (12 oz. ea. tube) I have the drain plugs...
no need to remove/disassemble anything.

 

So yours will be like mine Buck, a piece of cake,no springs to worry about,drain plugs for ease of use...(why have HD done away with them ?...to get you back to the shop I guess, I know the new Dynas dont have em)....good luck with the job.