another great post, springer. keep en coming!

 

If I had a hammer....

"I never cared much for working on my oil pump with a hammer."
I see a hammer in the pics ! ! +SMSH+
Seriously, as an engineer, I LOVE seeing this kind of post, and yes, by all means keep them coming.
Happy Hannuka, ya'll.
Mike

 

Springer, thanks for sharing this info!:thumbsup:

 

Thank you Springer!!!!!

Always grateful for helpful information.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

btw, is the oil pump next to the fuel pump on a shovel?
:265:

 

And old trick from the factory was very simular, take a 3/8 ball and braze it to a piece of copper tube, slightly texture the ball end with abrasive cloth, use fine lapping compound.
Some will take a punch and pound the the ball into the seat, this somtimes works but can drive a particle into the aluminum.
If the seat is badly damaged, a 3/8" ball endmill can be used carefully by hand , then lapped afterward.
Sure beats buying a new pump or finding an obsolite one.

 

Went to Crank My 1992 Springer Softail, and it done something similar, the only thing that worries me is that in also had gas mixed with the oil. I cranked it and within a couple of seconds I had Oil all around and then the gas started too. The only place it seems to be coming from is the overflow house coming out of the breather. I would think that I have the same problem as in the thread but what concerns me is the gas in the oil. I drained to oil pan and there was quiet a bit of gas at the top of the pan. Could it be the carbuerater. I had let the thing sit with the gas ON for a couple of months.

 

Check or repair/replace the vacuum petcock. You might also need to check the check valve (needle and seat) in the carb.

 

I think this procedure is going to solve my problem. But I have a couple of questions. 1. can I just get some 3/8" ball Bearings or do I have to use a Harley "Check Valve Ball"? and 2. To make the lapping tool can I just epoxy the ball to the end of a dowel. I don't have access to just one welding rod and don't have any spare push rods laying around. I know this is an old thread but I imagine people look at it a lot.
Thanks for replies

 

Yes a .375 ball from a unused bearing would work. Not sure where you would get one cheaper than a ball from the MoCo. And yes as long as the ball is secured tightly it would work with a straight dowel.

 

Most hardware stores that actually sell hardware will usually have 3/8" ball bearings sold individually and very inexpensive.

 

OK, Great. I'll check the hardware and the HD store. I like the copper tubing idea. It will be easy to buy what I need and it will cradle the ball so it can be put on straight.
Thanks

 

OK, Great. I'll check the hardware and the HD store.
Thanks

Go to any local shop and ask if they have an old EVO pushrod around ... Even a TwinCam should be the same. I bet the through them away all the time.

 

I have this problem of oil blowing out of the breather all the time, oil tank seams to hold its level though.
After a short ride it will leave a little puddle under it and a light film of oil down the right side of the frame.
A few blokes have told me these older 87 EVO's blow a bit, not sure this much though, or do I have other issues, any ideas>
Thanks

 

start your own thread please



Where you posted is for someone else's topic.

 

Ooops sorry.

 

no worries



Hurry up and re-post it as your own thread...lol

 

From 1968 to 1999 the oil pumps are all pretty much the same in respect to the check valve. The check valve is used to keep the oil in the oil tank when the engine isn't running. When the engine is running there is oil pressure that opens the check valve and allows the oil to flow through the engine. If the check valve wasn't there, all the oil in the oil tank would flow into the lower end of the engine. Then when you start the engine it blows it out the breather. This is called Sumping. If you let the bike sit over the winter and oil drains past the check valve, when you start it in the spring it will blow the oil out the breather. This is somewhat ok. It is when you let the bike sit for a couple hours or a day and it does this that it is a problem. My shovel used to do this. There were times when it would blow 1/2 quart of oil out the breather.

There is an old school "fix" where you take a drift and hammer and hit the check ball once firmly then replace the ball. This is suppose to seat the ball. I never cared much for working on my oil pump with a hammer.

Now this is a Brand New S&S oil pump and it should not be doing this. So off the oil pump came so I could figure out what was happening. What I found was a casting defect on the check ball seat. It had a small depression right across the seat. This was enough to be the cause of my problem.

There are tools specifically for cutting the seat. That adds time and money to the repair. Here is how I did it.

In this picture you see the oil pump body. The red arrow (1) shows the direction of pressurized oil flow. Note that hole leads directly to the check valve. Red arrow number 2 indicates where the check ball is installed into the pump body. It has a spring that presses the ball onto the seat, just above arrow number 1. When the oil is pressurized it lifts the ball off the seat and flows to the engine.

This is looking down into the oil pump body where the check ball goes. The red arrow (3) points to the check ball seat.

The check ball measures .375" (3/8" Bearing).

An EVO pushrod has round ball end that can be used as a lapping tool.

The ball end also measures .375"

Place the pump body in a vice with the top up. Note the vice has soft jaws and the oil pump body is protected further with a soft towel. Only tighten the vice enough to hold the part, do not damage the pump surfaces.

Next we need some lapping compound. I used a fine grit that would be used for lapping in valve.

I dip the end of the pushrod in the lapping compound. You don't want an excessive amount but it should be coated fairly well.

Place the pushrod into the pump body and rotate.

I place one hand on each side move them back and forth. After a 3 or 4 swipes lift the pushrod a little and set it back down and do 3 or 4 more. Repeat this 4 or 5 times.

Remove the pushrod and wipe the lapping compound off the end. Look closely at the wear pattern. You want an even wear pattern so you know you are getting the entire check ball seat. If it is just a hairline only the very edge of the seat was touched.

Clean the lapping compound out of the oil pump body and inspect the seat. If you are unsure of the seat you can use a blue dye to mark the seat and repeat the process. Then when you clean it out you should be able to clearly see the condition of the seat.

wheres the photos?😮

 

This is specifically an issue with Chrome or probably any newer web browser. When the pictures were posted in 2006 there were no issues. Now if any content (like pictures) is hosted using HTTP Chrome and newer browser won't display it. The workaround is to view the forum in Internet Explorer. Just copy and paste the address 68-99 oil pump check valve repair into Internet Explorer and you will see everything.

 

I had this exact problem with my '92 some years ago. Even wrote to "American Iron" about it....they said the same thing about the seat and the ball and the hammer.....ending with "results are mixed" . I checked places like JPCycles and oil pumps were, I think, like $900 bucks.
Now...this "puking" happened 3-4 times. I had to put a pan under the pump to catch the oil..Not much...but messy. Over time, I found the cure: Don't let the bike sit for a month or more. Start and run the motor every 2-3 weeks. It never happend again,

 

This post is exactly what I'm looking for! Unfortunately, the pics aren't loading. Is this just because the post is so old, or is it something on my end?

 

Click on this........68-99 Oil Pump Check Valve Repair

 

Thanks so much!