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Discussion starter · #41 ·
I just bought another 4 quarts of valvoline 50 weight and now the bottle has a sticker that says added zinc excellent for pushrod and tappet engines. It has stayed quiet for the 3000 I have run it so far and as an added benifit it has not moved one iota on the dip stick. I have over 70,000 miles and I swear it is quieter than when it was new.
 
32000 miles with predominantly Valvoline 50wt. At temp, it's just as thin as 20w50 (do your viscosity homework) and has no polymers like multiviscosity oils have, which break down and begin decreasing your viscosity and protection at higher temps, which is why HD recommends it over 80* for added protection. WHEN you run 50wt is the difference of the correct oil, or the incorrect oil. Simply read your owner's manual....

Once the PA temps drop below a daily 60* high and fall starts, I go back to 20w50, for the cooler months and through the winter months of riding.... there's no such thing as "winterizing" at my house......
 
good stuff

Tried the Valvoline Vr1 50 Wt. My bike has never been this quiet!! This stuff really works, still can't believe!!
getting my bike ready for Sturgis, i just changed oil from 50W redline to 50W VR1 Valvoline. i don't give a c%#p what anyone says, it is quieter. if it works and holds up in my 9K RPM dragster, i'm sure it will be OK for my HD. i got rid of some of the top end clatter by shimming rocker end play from .018 ( way off ) to .004, and even more with 50W VR1. IT'S A WIN WIN & all good. :clap::clap:
 
what i was surprised at was that i've been running the Redline 50W ( full syn ) for a few years now, just went to Valvoline VR1 50W ( NOT syn ) , and the same weight 50W, not syn, is much quieter. and no, i don't have a problem of any kind with syn oils. just presenting the facts in my personal situation. just the results from A & B oils, same weight, 50W. sure glad i gave it a try, along with setting rocker end play, before changing oil. so i would know what quieted down what and how much :whistle:
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Just got back from Sturgis and still overly impressed. We ran 80mph all the way over and back and did about 3000 miles total with running around the blackhills. Even stuck on Lazalle street in the heat the oil temp stayed under 230*, last year with Mobil1 vtwin it was over 260 much of the time. Did not check the level while on the trip, got home checked it and it did not move on the dip stick, and still looks good.
 
I just changed mine to Valvoline VR1 SAE 50 today. based on the SM and the heat we are having in Texas should have gone to 60WT, but after reading as much as I could find on the subject (to include feed-back on this thread), the VR1 50 should work well.
Plus, at 3.69 at O'Reily's, it was hard to say no.
Time will tell....

BTW: I had M1 VT 20/50 in there before the change.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
changed back to mobil 20-50 vtwin (bike was due for a change and cooler weather right around the corner) and all ready miss the valvoline 50 weight. put 350 miles on today and danged if I don't have the tick tick tick back. I know it does not hurt anything and a bike with 72,000 should have a few ticks but with the 50 weight it was sooo quiet.
 
Moto Guzzi the other v -twin is air cooled and their recommended oil is 60wt and these engines always go 100,000 miles or better,and just like a harley dont lug them and they just keep running. Duane5157
 
resurrecting this thread. Looking to stop the marble race in my 13 RGC. I have tried Amsoil, Redline, Castrol both Syn and Dino all 20/50 with no relief. I want to try a 50 weight but want to know how low of temp it can go to safely. I know what the specs say. Right now in Mass it is still 75 during day. I am not a cold weather rider. Consistently below 50 and I am not out much. I understand the cold start issue but will it do the bike harm at start and if I let it warm up before take off. Thanks for the time
 
Amsoil makes a 50wt synthetic for air-cooled V-twins. The riders manual for my '97 FLHPi even says it's OK to use 50 or 60wt in hot weather. But it says cold starts will be harder.

I sit in traffic at idle in 90+deg/90+ humidity during the summer and run HD 50wt.
 
In reading the thread, am seeing owners running 50W to quiet things down in the hotter temps and that's valid. On the opposite side, if I were to run 50W when the temps drop below around 80* degrees, I could get some minor valve train noise, then it's time to switch back to 20W50.

Personal preference is Valvoline 20W50 for under 80* and Valvoline Racing Blend 50W or 60W for temps over 80*.
 
Amsoil makes a 50wt synthetic for air-cooled V-twins. The riders manual for my '97 FLHPi even says it's OK to use 50 or 60wt in hot weather. But it says cold starts will be harder.

I sit in traffic at idle in 90+deg/90+ humidity during the summer and run HD 50wt.
AMSOIL does not make a straight 50W oil, but does make a straight 60W. I have some customers that like that grade to quiet the engine down some. I know it is natural to assume that noise relates to wear, but it certainly doesn't relate to wear in the Harley engine.

Petroleum oils seem to muffle noise in the Harley engine due to it's non uniform molecules that it is made up of. Where synthetics have 100% uniform molecules they do not muffle the sound as good, but generally offer better wear protection and of course higher temp protection.

Ever listen to a diesel engine? If that noise related to wear the engines would not last very long. That diesel sound is coming from the combustion and not metal to metal contact.
george
 
Something I agree on with Georgedouglas. Quiet does not mean better. Today's engine are designed to use lighter oils that flow better. At one time we mixed grease with 90W to quiet gear boxes down. I would not try that in today's bikes.
Running a good 50 or 60 in hot weather won't hurt. But the right 20/50 will do just as well and protect better on start ups.
Cost of Syn engine oils has come way down heck $9.50 a quart or so cheap insurance .
 
I have not ran a straight 50wt but might try it next spring. I have used both syn 20/50 and Dino 20/50. The dino is quieter, the oil pressure guage raises quicker at start up, and the pressure doesn't drop as far at an idle once warmed up. No more Syn for me.

One other thing I'll add is that if you start running the oils with added zinc you may experience issues with the Cat. I have not experienced this myself, but read it in a report from a lab. I've slept since then so I can't remember the name of the lab.
 
I have not ran a straight 50wt but might try it next spring. I have used both syn 20/50 and Dino 20/50. The dino is quieter, the oil pressure guage raises quicker at start up, and the pressure doesn't drop as far at an idle once warmed up. No more Syn for me.

One other thing I'll add is that if you start running the oils with added zinc you may experience issues with the Cat. I have not experienced this myself, but read it in a report from a lab. I've slept since then so I can't remember the name of the lab.
Let me ask you a few questions concerning your thoughts on oils and pressure. What is oil pressure indicative of? Why would a synthetic oil have lower pressure? In a HD engine, which is much different than a basic 4 stroke engine concerning bearing design, what builds up oil pressure?

Your statement concerning zinc is accurate, as this is why the EPA made the oil company's lower it in automotive oils.
george
 
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