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25w-60 Weight Dino Oil

22K views 11 replies 12 participants last post by  georgedouglas  
#1 ·
Anyone been using this wt when the weather is hot? Was wondering if there was a benefit/negative to change from the 20w/50 in the summer? It is routinely over the 100 mark here the SoCal summers and a lot of stop and go riding in certain areas. I know Drag Specialties and Rev Tech market it, have used Rev Tech in the past with great sucess , not had good results with synthetics in v-twin applications .I know many have,and I have heard all the "This is the best oil in the world" stories, just want info on the viscosity question please, not trying to start an oil war!
 
#5 ·
I don't know about you guys, but if you have a modified bike and it's hot where you live, 20-50 dino isn't cuttin it. Now I'm not a resident expert, but I believe even the HD maint. manual tells you what oil to run for temp outside. Summer time I run straight 60 or better and that was in NC. Here in Fl I'm going to a better cooler and run the same oil. 20-50 is a winter oil in a stock evo. Summer time above 90deg and you should run 50 or better. Atleast that is what I recall in the manual. And you Twinkie guys definitely should. Those bikes run hot as it is.
 
#7 ·
Drag Specialty 25-60

I started useing DS 25 60 1,600 miles ago, which is a change from 20-50 syn. over the last 40,000.miles. Why did I change? well only thing they had and I never saw 25-60 before. " oil is oil " whispering in my ear.
I ll give you my seat of the pants experience, bike sounds better, dont notice that slugish gonna die at stoping, better idle me up to keep me from dying symtom, exshaust tone gotten deeper, bike grabs harder.

Cant say it runs hotter cause still sounds the same when shut down very little if nothing of the hot griddle in cold water crakkleing
Feels like increased hp and tq. and it was just an oil change.

Ive been wondering if after 15000 miles on my 95" build if actualy running dino (Break in cutting oil) will reset the perhaps warped metal to metal moveing parts. "For every action there is an equal neg or pos reaction". :whistle: just whistleing dixy.
 
#8 ·
I started running it last year in my bike and noticed that it made less noise. I was using about a quart every 1500 miles on my 98" with 20w50 and now I can go 3000 with the 25w60 and only be down about 1/2 quart.
 
#11 ·
Vr1 20/50

I use Rev Tec pure 25 /60 and have no problems in my 127.
I live in CA which has hot weeks but not consistently hot.
I do notice that in town riding it does break down quicker though.
Now, I am using 25/50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil.
It has much much more phosphorus and zinc in it that is not allowed in "street" oils.
The reason is that those two compounds to a super job in friction elimination and also destroy cat converters.
The addition of those two compounds dropped my engine temp by 10 degrees.
I use that stuff all year round now and traffic has not been a problem.
Plus, its only 6.99 a quart and performs like the unmentioned syn that seems to be a favorite on this site.:coffee:
 
#12 ·
I use Rev Tec pure 25 /60 and have no problems in my 127.
I live in CA which has hot weeks but not consistently hot.
I do notice that in town riding it does break down quicker though.
Now, I am using 25/50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil.
It has much much more phosphorus and zinc in it that is not allowed in "street" oils.
The reason is that those two compounds to a super job in friction elimination and also destroy cat converters.
The addition of those two compounds dropped my engine temp by 10 degrees.
I use that stuff all year round now and traffic has not been a problem.
Plus, its only 6.99 a quart and performs like the unmentioned syn that seems to be a favorite on this site.:coffee:
I doubt that the zinc and phosphorous anti wear additives are the reason for doing a great job for you, as the unmentioned synthetic oil has the highest level of these additives and you didn't like it and it is only 26 cents a quart more than the mentioned oil in your post.

george