Hello. I’m trying to figure out which tools are necessary for a cam change on my TC88b. This is what I came up with:

Cam tension unloader
Oil pump alignment tool
Inner cam bearing remover
Inner cam bearing installer

Since I am installing a new cam and bearings, I don’t need the cam shaft bearing remover. And using the oven and dry ice gets me by without the camshaft remover and installer.

Do I have this right?

I hope so because I can buy this stuff from Georges for a lot less than paying for a dealer install​

Are you doing gear drive cams? If so, you don't need to buy the tensioner tool, just use a pair of channel locks to rotate them and a nail to hold them in place.

Inner cam bearing removal tool is available at any local AutoZone. It's called a blind spot bearing puller.........and they rent it for free.

Inner cam bearing installer is very easy......just set the bearing in place and use a socket the same exact size on an extension to tap it into place.

Oil pump alignment pins are available on HTT for like $20, but are not required. You can slightly tighten 2 of the bolts while the motor is rotated, as it turns it will "self-align" and by just slightly snugging them up it will hold it in place. Then install the other 2 and torque them all down.

Steve

 

Those are the "specialty" tools you'll need, yes. Actually, I bought them all but ended up not using the cam chain tensioner holders - I couldn't get them to work right, and it turns out you really don't need them (you can move the tensioners with a pair of vice grips or channel locks and lock them in place, pending removal, with a small drill bit).

You'll need a dial indicator to check crankshaft runout/gear lash also, but that's not a "specialty" tool to the extent the others are, so you may already have one, or if not, can probably borrow one and/or use it for other things if you invest in one.

I just completed the process - I'm all thumbs, and it went very well. I got a LOT of help from folks here. Don't hesitate to ask. People will be very willing to help you out - myself included ("expert" that I now am.... ;-) )b

Do it yourself. Save a few bucks, learn more about your motor, and be sure it's done RIGHT, by someone who gives a s*** about your bike.

GO FOR IT!!!

 

You won't need the "sprocket locker." That's another one I bought and didn't use. It didn't work for me, and I found it very easy (without assistance) to step on the brake to lock the pinion gear so I could loosen/tighten bolts on that and the cam gear.

 

have a look at www.harleyhog.co.uk and click on CAM INSTALL
complete manual with pictures !!!

best site ever

 

I just went gear drive on mine and didn't need the tensioner tool. Only tools I picked up were the inner bearing removal tool and installer.

Don't take any chances removing those inner cam bearings. Unless your tool expands to contact the bearing race 360 degrees, it's risky. The metal retainer cage holding the rollers is flimsy and will break if contact is not perfect, allowing rollers to pop out. Yeah it happened to me. I used a removal tool that did not have complete coverage and broke the roller retainer. Was sweating bullets till I found that one missing roller...I stopped that operation, ordered the Georges' tools off ebay and waited a few days. Opened the box, completed the operation in under 10 minutes, then boxed 'em up again for resale on ebay. The Georges' tool is well designed and failsafe.

 

Going to do a 95 inch, SE heads and 570 gear drive in 2 weeks. Don't need any agravation so I ordered the George inner bearing puller and installer, oil pump alighnment pins as well as the wrist pin installer/remover. Could have got by w/o the wrist pin tool but heard it simplifies the process. When I checked my tenshioners last winter I just used a open end/box end wrench with the open end over the tensioner arm and a screwdriver threw the box end used as leverage bar. When tensioner is pulled back slide a drill bit to pin.

 

Going to do a 95 inch, SE heads and 570 gear drive in 2 weeks. Don't need any agravation so I ordered the George inner bearing puller and installer, oil pump alighnment pins as well as the wrist pin installer/remover. Could have got by w/o the wrist pin tool but heard it simplifies the process. When I checked my tenshioners last winter I just used a open end/box end wrench with the open end over the tensioner arm and a screwdriver threw the box end used as leverage bar. When tensioner is pulled back slide a drill bit to pin.

I also purchased any tool I thought I might need just to make the process easier. Just to let you know, you will love the wrist pin tool, it works sooo smooth! I finished my BB build about 6 weeks ago and the only thing that was a TOTAL pain in the butt was the circlips that hold the wrist pins in. Getting them out was very easy, installing them is a total pain. If I had to do it over again, I would buy the circlip tool. Just my opinion.

peace--

razor--

 

... the only thing that was a TOTAL pain in the butt was the circlips that hold the wrist pins in. Getting them out was very easy, installing them is a total pain. If I had to do it over again, I would buy the circlip tool. Just my opinion.

Where does one get a circlip tool?
--Bill

 

I think the clip tool is a little pricey, like about $70 I think. I read someone here made a nice one from a price of copper pipe. I just pushed mine in. Logically you would think to start from one end and work your way around, not. Push the middle down in the grove then work the ends in, it's really not that hard. I think it took about a minute.

Chrsi

 

Be very careful about covering the openings in the case while working on the piston install. I dropped something down one of the opening and just about got sick, thought I was going to have to remove the engine and split the cases to get it out. I was lucky and used a magnet to retrieve the item I dropped.

Just take you time.

 

You won't need the "sprocket locker." That's another one I bought and didn't use. It didn't work for me, and I found it very easy (without assistance) to step on the brake to lock the pinion gear so I could loosen/tighten bolts on that and the cam gear.

BrianK...any concern using the "step-on-the-brake" method instead of a "sprocket Locker" that you might damage anything in the engine because you are using the crankshaft/primary drive/secondary drive...etc. to hold the pinion sprocket while untightening and tightening?

 

I wasn't worried about that, but maybe I should have been? Any of the real wrenches around here who can comment on whether this is a bad practice?

 

Wish I had the circlip installer, though they are pricey.
I just grab chain with either channel locks or vise grips.

Lots of guys do the oven trick for cam, I had a frustrating waste of time. two ovens, lube all over. Foundy a indy to do it for $17. Didn;t buy it from him either. You really should have the right tools. I beleive they support the cam plate so you are not stressing it.

I know a guy who used blind hle remover and old cam to tap in needle bearing. I would buy the right tool.

Also pins are $20

I borrowed a ring compressor and spreader, they sure help.

Also will need to gap the rings. I screwed on up by hand, I think I was getting the hang of it after that. Revperf did it for me, I am only 40 miles away.

I would probably order a hand filer. I also borrowed dial indicator to check lash.

I also dremmeled the inside of the cam chest cover.

 

I would see if you can get who ever bores your cylinders to gap your rings. Save yourself time.


Just realized you are only doing cams. So forget most of what I said. Actually keep it in mind for your 95". That will be coming shortly.

IMO save your time and do it all at once. Pick the right cam for a 95"