V-Twin Forum banner

oil level when cold

23K views 23 replies 16 participants last post by  oranjvoodoo  
#1 ·
:dunno: I've noticed a change in oil level just recently. Always when sitting for a few days the oil level in my '05 FatBoy's oil tank would drop a bit from operating temp, like to about 1/2 quart low. Lately after sitting a while it drops to about the quart low level. Shows full when hot, but cold level has dropped. Why? Is this the harbinger of a problem?

Lefty
 
#2 ·
Read your owners manual. Different models/years have different methods for checking your oil level. Some you check cold. Some hot (like mine). Some you check level, some on the kick stand (like mine). Each of those differences have a big effect on the oil level reading. There is always a difference between checking warm/cold. Nothing wrong with that. Oil, like alot of things, expands with heat. Once you find out the proper method for your bike, stick with that and keep the level where it needs to be.
 
#3 ·
Either I need to rephrase this question or no one knows. What I've noticed is that more than a quart of oil evacuates the oil tank after the bike has sat for 24 hours. It didn't used to. This is not a matter of lack of oil. When warm it's full. Where is this oil going overnight? Is this a problem?

Lefty
 
#5 ·
Lefty said:
Where is this oil going overnight?
Nowhere. Some could be going back into the engine, but more then likely its due to the change in temperature. As I stated above, oil molecules (like alot of things) expands when it gets hot (chemestry & physics 101). When it cools down, the molocules essentially shrink back to normal size which will give the appearance of it being a quart low. But its really not. The dipstick is calibrated to have the oil checked while hot. Thats why the manual states to check the oil while its hot for an accurate reading. My bike has done exactly the same thing since day 1.

Lefty said:
Is this a problem?
As I stated above, no. Its not a problem. If the oil level is fine when the bike is hot then you have plenty of oil and its not leaking out of the engine.
 
#7 ·
most likely a check valve but if you start to see your tank getting very low this could be a problem! If to much oil drains back into the crank case you can blow out a seal next time you go to fire up. I had an evo check valve act up and I added a little keroseen (1/2cup) ran it for the day and chanded the oil. Took care of the problem.
 
#8 ·
Oil level when cold

I have a 05' Softail Standard and this very thing has just started happening to me. I have been observing my "cold" oil level for the past week. I very well know to check my oil at operating temperature, and it is full when I do so. I just don't remember my oil level dropping that low when the engine is cold. The service manuel lists a faulty oil pump/ crank case o-ring as a possible culprit. It does not seem like an easy fix. I do not show any signs of leaking or burning oil. So I can only guess that it is leaking back in to the crank case. Is there a way I can find out if it is leaking back in to the crank case?
 
#9 ·
Oil level when cold

Ok, for those of you who are interested here is the answer to the random oil levels when the engine is cold (pertains more to Softails). Hence, this is why we check the oil when it is hot. By design the oil tank sits above the oil pump and once the oil is circulated back in to the tank is held in there by a check valve ball bearing. With the weight of the oil, gravity will win every time and the oil weeps past the check ball in to the crankcase. Great example, take the bike for a ride, oil level checks full, then the bike sits for about three to five days. You will notice the cold level dropping. It is also important to mention that the oil will condense as it cools, especially if you use syn 3. The Twin Cam 88 was designed with this as a known "characteristic." When you fire up the engine the oil pump will pull everything out of the crankcase and begin circulating. As you put more miles on the bike the check valve will weaken, but as for replacing it look at around 25,000-30,000 miles only if it is a problem. Here is how to tell if it is a problem. When you start the engine it will dump oil out of the crankcase oil vent located on the left side of the bike next to the drive belt. It will be like you just pulled out the oil pan drain plug. The other tell tale is if you finish a nice long ride and you go to check the oil and it is not in the oil tank. That would be complete check valve bearing failure. The job to replace the check valve is an estimated four hour task. It is one of those things that some of us Softail/TC 88 owners will have to replace and others will not. I hope this information is found to be helpful. None of us like to have anything break or go wrong with our scoots. It is important to recognize when there is a real problem with the bike, and when we are just chasing ghosts. So ride on and ride safe.:cheers: :chopper:
 
#11 ·
HDWRENCH said:
Best thing to do is start the bike let it run for 30 seconds , then let it sit for another 30 seconds then check the oil. On softails we run the oil bag about 1/2 qt low as the heat out here is a killer on temps and the oil bag will end up being over full.
Just Picked up my R&R Pro Billet Cam Support Plate and Venting Cover from Steve today and its awesome... Quality product....


:clap: :clap: :clap:
 
#12 ·
Hello Lefty. I am Earl. Your problem is not from heat expansion of oil as some have told you (although any combustion engine will show a slightly higher level when hot. Its the check valve ball that is failing. When you shut the engine off the oil tank is gravity flow by nature and when the check valve is stuck open the oil fills up the crank area. You can get away with this forever provided that when you start the engine it returns the oil to the oil tank. But if it ever gets to where your engine smokes on startup have it fixed. Heres how you need to start checking your oil. Check it after you use it and park it, then next time you use your bike start it and let run for 15 seconds then shut it off and if it shows the oil level about the same as when you shut it off hot (other than a little heat expansion which would make it a tad lower now) and it always fills the oil tank back up after starting for 15 seconds you can get away with this for ever. But if it ever starts blowing oil out of the vent and you see oil on the ground you will have to fix.
 
#21 ·
If that truly is the case,then yes it is overfilled.The most accurate way to check is to ride the bike and get it up to operating temperate,then let it idle for a couple of minutes before shutting down,let sit for a minute and then check with the bike on the sidestand.The level at this point needs to be below the full hot mark on the dipstick.The oil level on the dipstick raises when the engine is up to operating temperature.
 
#22 ·
The newer bikes don't get a marked out cold or hot line on the stick. Out of the owner's manual for my '14 dyna it says cold should be half way up the stick. Operating temperature should be at full. Ime the oil level only goes up about 1 bar from cold after I have gotten it good and hot.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
#24 ·
Yeah, I think that too. My idea of good and hot is 30 minutes on the freeway. Oil might be at 160, maybe 200 if rolling high in the revs. I'm thinking after 30 minutes stop and go and or some tire melting burnouts would bring the oil closer to 300'f which might take my half stick reading and make it full. No experience getting the motor that hot.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk