V-Twin Forum banner

FXRP rebuild

16K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  Supergoose  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone, I decided to start a mini build thread for my '93 FXRP. I try to do most of my own work on my Harleys, but generally it's just maintenance or upgrades. This is my first time taking rebuilding a Harley. With that said, this build thread is probably going to be less about documenting the process and more about asking for input/opinion/help, and posting just enough pictures to keep everyone interested :). I've already acquired a lot of help utilizing old posts, but I'm at the point where I'd probably have to start asking specific questions.

This is my winter project so it'll be sort of slow. I only get to work on it during weekends since I live in an apartment and keep all my Harleys and tools in my parents garage.

With that said, here's a short summary to bring everyone up to speed:

This is my 1993 FXRP the day it rolled off the truck, spring 2021.
Image


It was more or less stock and I intended to just make some updates to make it a good daily rider. It has a little under 30k miles on it and shows well for its age, I'd say its a solid 6 footer. I upgraded the front end so I could run more modern brakes, also threw a 2 piston brembo on the rear, new cables, new tires, LED tail/headlight, new Mikuni carb, some police farkles, and some some tactile upgrades (seat, handle bars, hand controls) just make it more comfortable/modern. Below is how it looked before I tore it down.
Image


The one thing I could never get over is that at some point in the bikes life, someone had spray bombed the motor black. I had decided a few months into owning it that I needed to either have the motor rebuilt front eh ground up, or swap it for something else. I had the motor in my Street Glide rebuilt last winter, great results but I just dropped it off at the shop and picked it up done. I decided I wanted to do the work myself this time. I'm not capable of rebuilding an engine so I knew swapping a motor was the only way for me. Luckily for me I happened onto another FXR with a S&S v113, as a bonus, it also had a Baker DD6 transmission. It had less then 5k miles on the drivetrain but had been sitting for years and it looks like it was put away wet so there was some pitting in the aluminum and chrome. Not optimal, but with some polish, better then what I have now. Also the benefit of having a "donor" bike for me was invaluable since I could learn through disassembling the donor bike. The Donor:
Image


I do feel bad taking it apart, not sure what the plan is for it after.
So this is were I sit now, drivetrain was removed from the donor FXR, and I've finished stripping down the FXRP
Image

Image
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
My next steps are to clean up what I can and start reassembly. I debated on stripping the frame completely and having it powder coated, but I decided against it since I don't want to fall into the rabbit hole of restoring everything, and the finish on the drivetrain isn't perfect anyway. I'll touch up some small rust areas with POR-15. I did decide to have the tins re-cleared. I thought the paint was in good shape and I wanted to preserve the original paint, since I'm not looking for a show bike. The painter didn't seem to think it was as nice as I did haha, so we'll see how much gets saved.

One "mistake" I think I've already made is buying stainless hardware to replace some rusty chrome and corroded zinc. I had thought stainless was maintenance free but it seems like they're the most finicky of all fasteners since every fastener either needs anti seize or locktite to prevent galling or corroding the aluminum. It has me worried since every bolt I install I think I don't have enough locktite or anti seize. It's making for a mess!

I hope to start installing the baker DD6 transmission and new rear end in the next week. Hope there's interest to follow! Also I welcome all opinions and criticisms. A lot of what I'm doing is based on 10 year old forum posts. I welcome fresher idea's/opinions.

What I'm waffling on now is if I should keep the S&S Super G or switch to a Mikuni. I value drivability and MPG over power, but I still debate if its really worth spending the extra money.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Look forward to following. The red FXR looks really nice, some nice upgrades, is that the donor bike??

On a side note - I'm now getting advertisements that are blocking the screen, what's up with this??
Thanks, yeah the red bike is the donor bike. It was a pretty nice bike when the owner first put it together. Besides the s&s v113, baker DD6, Barnett scorpion clutch which I’m taking, it has Performance Machine wheels, pulley, calipers, & forward controls. Also it has, what i think, a pretty nice ghost flame paint job. I’ll try to sell it as a roller, or install the FXRP drivetrain in it.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
so I just took the first steps towards reassembly starting with the rear end. It seems like the standard upgrade that I've read when you have the swing arm off is to replace the stock swingarm cleave block bushings with spherical bearings. Not a cheap upgrade and then you still have the stock swingarm/ axle adjusters. Probably would have been all fine but I decided I was just going to replace the entire swingarm. I didn't want a flashy "performance" swingarm, what I really would have liked was newer touring swing arm for a more stock look. However, with the conversion bearings and conversion axle to run a timken wheel, I think it came out to around $1200. Not worth the cost in my opinion. What I settled on was a Metmachex aluminum swingarm, powdercoated black. I think it has the perfect balance of OEM/performance look, and it should improve handling with the spherical bearings, lighter weight, and stiffer construction.

For shocks I started to put some thought into it, but it's really a pick-your-poison situation. Legends, Ohlins, Fox, RWD, Works, progressive, bitubo, etc. The options are endless as are the opinions. I just stuck with the only brand I have personal experience with. My Streetglide has Pro-Action suspension front and rear. For the rear shocks, I like that they are individually setup for you after you order, not stocked like most shocks. They're light and compact, have an extra half inch of travel, look good, and hold up really well. The shocks on my Streetglide have over 25k miles on them and the body looks new and the performance hasn't degraded. As for how they perform? I think they're worlds better over stock, I can't speculate tho on how they perform over other brands.

Also replaced the swing arm pivots and bushings and new BDL/Gates belt. Stuck with the old swing arm pivot shaft since it appears to be better quality then the new replacement I got from Denniskirk.

Image

Image


The Baker DD6 went in at the same time, just cleaned it top as best I could, no changes otherwise.

Next step is to figure out the rear brake. The setup for this swingarm is a radial mount for 108mm 4 piston radial calipers. I didn't need that kind of clamping power, don't really like the look, and the caliper bracket was almost $300 plus whatever the caliper would cost. It was a good looking brake though and it was anchored to an internal channel built into the swing arm. I was using a small 2 piston Brembo caliper which I really liked for its incognito looks and just right clamping force. I'll have to try to make it work without making it too ugly. Also I think I'll start looking over the wiring next. The donor motor came with an S&S IST ignition which has a lot more wires/sensors then the stock ignition.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
So i got a little ahead of myself and tried to set the engine in the frame. Seems like it isnt as simple as sliding it in. Whats the general procedure? Do i have to get the trans level/supported first? I think where I’m getting stuck is the stabilizer mount on the front engine mount plate, i can’t slide the engine past that. Also can’t get the engine high enough to go over and not enough room to get the engine diagonal to clear it. I’m thinking maybe bolt the motor mount to the engine first? But then the engine wont be supported once its set in the frame
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Support(balance) the motor on a scissor jack so you can adjust the height.
A second scissor jack will hold up the trans and set the height.
I'd remove the front mount, then put the motor in the chassis.
Then install the motor mount bolts finger tight, as you get the motor connected to the primary.
Remember everything aligns off the primary, tighten those bolts first.
Don't try to pull anything into place, it should fit nicely by hand.

Best to have some help, a liberal dose of patience.
thanks for that guidance! I definitely would have overlooked installing the primary before torquing everything
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
OG FXRP. You have a 💎. That's cool that you're doing the yourself for the first time….
Thanks for those words of encouragement and the recommendation for tools!

@Dirty Rick thanks for the guidance on getting the motor in. I have the motor in but need to figure out the inner primary since I’m working on a jack and can’t level the trans/engine separately. I might have to set it back on the ground.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
@Supergoose what happened with your build?
Hey, thanks for your interest and apologies for not making any updates. Progress was a little slower as bike got closer to completion, but the good thing is everything went pretty smooth. Got the paint back and the bike on the ground by spring. Tuning the Mikuni 45 was a little difficult for me, got it pretty close but ended up having it dialed in on a dyno. Probably put about 2k miles on it last summer, only got a few all day rides in, mostly just commuting to work but it ran great. Only change i ended up making for switching to a 65t pulley to compliment the baker dd6 gearing for my riding style. Unfortunately haven’t had a chance to ride it again since i moved to CA and left it in NJ, but hopefully i eventually get it out to CA.

Image


Image

Image
Image

Image
Image
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Wow that turned out great. If that were mine i could see those lights and sirens getting me in trouble. That and the theme from CHIPs would be running thru my head every ride.
Thanks! The aux lights are just colored reflectors. I wired in a strobe module but i keep it unplugged so i wont be tempted. I have an air horn only amplifier hooked up to the siren which, knock on wood, so far hasn’t gotten me in trouble. I do occasionally get blocked by cars doing the speed limit on single lane roads 😂
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
We have laws out here related to a bike looking like a copsickle, may want to research how far they will let you slide afore ya catch their attention, Triple A may have an idea or maybe someone here has some background in law enforcement and will comment.
Yeah, i’d be
We have laws out here related to a bike looking like a copsickle, may want to research how far they will let you slide afore ya catch their attention, Triple A may have an idea or maybe someone here has some background in law enforcement and will comment.
In NJ i’m not too worried, they could care less. In CA i plan to have the lights covered.