when you tell someone they are at such and such compression which 1 are you talking about Static or Corrected ???
towboattrash34
Normally static.
When I say my build is set at 10:1 CR, that is what all the parts add up to using a Compression Calculator from Big Boyz. That same calculator from Big Boyz will also tell you what the corrected compression is as well.
Steve
When I say my build is set at 10:1 CR, that is what all the parts add up to using a Compression Calculator from Big Boyz. That same calculator from Big Boyz will also tell you what the corrected compression is as well.
Steve
when you tell someone they are at such and such compression which 1 are you talking about Static or Corrected ???
Actually you asked a very "dynamic" question....[pun intended, lol].
The most important thing is to make sure when talking about this topic that you understand what the other person is conveying.....thus properly "operationally defining" one's terms is some what critical.....
Think of it this way, "Static" Compression is also known as "Mechanical" Compression, it's the compression you will see with the bike sitting there.....
"Corrected" Compression is also known as "Dynamic" Compression....with the bike actually "working/running" it's what the bike will do when under load typically at a 2,000 RPM level....
It's important to "operationally" define one's terms.....and most of the time......what one thinks the other is saying is incorrect.....the terms get thrown around...and before you know it....you have no idea what another is talking about....
The best way for us as Owners of our bikes that care about this is to use some sort of "Calculator" to give us a more comprehensive view of what's going on.......it's been stated time and time again....that keeping one's "Corrected" Compression @ 8.8:1 - 9.0:1will result in a bike that will run efficiently and without problems typically when running our normal pump gas....once you get above 9.0:1 + "Corrected" Compression the higher the octane of gas you will need to keep in your tank....for some depending upon where they live it's no big deal....for some that travel across country perhaps it's a bit more of a concern.
Keep this in mind another calculation that some use as a reference is the "Cranking Compression" thus a bike at 9.0:1 "Corrected Compression will run around 185 cranking compression PSI. Now with this stated it's important to realize that outside temperatures can change how the bike will perform as well....given the barametric pressure of the air on any given day......that's why the higher you raise your "Corrected" Compression the more you raise your cranking compression resulting in differing results which could lead to compression releases for hard starts or kick backs per say.
There are a lot of factors that go into determining one's build such as one's pistons, whether they are domed or flat tops, the head gasket being used, the porting of one heads, as well as the intake closing angle of the cam one chooses.....it's a "symphony" of sorts compiled by individual "instruments".
One final thought on this as well would be to realize the elevation one will be riding their bike at.....thus if you "Correct" for elevation or build to a "certain" elevation and then go to another elevation one will have differing results....air density affects all of this....unless you "correct" for elevation most of the "programs/calculators" will provide for results @ sea level and if you ride your bike at 5,000 feet there can be about a 15-20% loss in power....just something to be kept in mind.
Regards,
"Classic"
Actually you asked a very "dynamic" question....[pun intended, lol].
The most important thing is to make sure when talking about this topic that you understand what the other person is conveying.....thus properly "operationally defining" one's terms is some what critical.....
Think of it this way, "Static" Compression is also known as "Mechanical" Compression, it's the compression you will see with the bike sitting there.....
"Corrected" Compression is also known as "Dynamic" Compression....with the bike actually "working/running" it's what the bike will do when under load typically at a 2,000 RPM level....
It's important to "operationally" define one's terms.....and most of the time......what one thinks the other is saying is incorrect.....the terms get thrown around...and before you know it....you have no idea what another is talking about....
The best way for us as Owners of our bikes that care about this is to use some sort of "Calculator" to give us a more comprehensive view of what's going on.......it's been stated time and time again....that keeping one's "Corrected" Compression @ 8.8:1 - 9.0:1will result in a bike that will run efficiently and without problems typically when running our normal pump gas....once you get above 9.0:1 + "Corrected" Compression the higher the octane of gas you will need to keep in your tank....for some depending upon where they live it's no big deal....for some that travel across country perhaps it's a bit more of a concern.
Keep this in mind another calculation that some use as a reference is the "Cranking Compression" thus a bike at 9.0:1 "Corrected Compression will run around 185 cranking compression PSI. Now with this stated it's important to realize that outside temperatures can change how the bike will perform as well....given the barametric pressure of the air on any given day......that's why the higher you raise your "Corrected" Compression the more you raise your cranking compression resulting in differing results which could lead to compression releases for hard starts or kick backs per say.
There are a lot of factors that go into determining one's build such as one's pistons, whether they are domed or flat tops, the head gasket being used, the porting of one heads, as well as the intake closing angle of the cam one chooses.....it's a "symphony" of sorts compiled by individual "instruments".
One final thought on this as well would be to realize the elevation one will be riding their bike at.....thus if you "Correct" for elevation or build to a "certain" elevation and then go to another elevation one will have differing results....air density affects all of this....unless you "correct" for elevation most of the "programs/calculators" will provide for results @ sea level and if you ride your bike at 5,000 feet there can be about a 15-20% loss in power....just something to be kept in mind.
Regards,
"Classic"
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