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Used oil analysis

80K views 133 replies 37 participants last post by  alarmguy  
#1 · (Edited)
I made this a sticky for people to post their Used Oil Analysis reports.
Hope it's helpful in making up your mind. The options are endless and if you're new it's overwhelming.


Once again the auto 15-50 $22 a 5 qt jug came out good. Who needs the V-Twin on the bottle.

This will help tell you what the report means.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php


I removed the 04 Softail test because it really doesn't apply to my current bike.

My 09 Ultra. This oil was tortured by running at extreme heat for extended periods of time riding 2-up. 270*+ sometimes exceding 300*.
I didn't know about a TBN before but the one for the Ultra is very good!!
Image
 
#15 ·
These are all good reports and shows that you have several choices of oils to use. I had posted last year a few of the Amsoil reports at the 10,000 mile mark and the oil could have been used another year. the Amsoil reports did not suffer any lowering of the viscosity though. The elavated copper that the lab is talking about is nothing to worry about. With synthetics the copper is normally elavated, but when petroleum oil is used the copper does not show up until it is really wearing. In diesel engines using synthetic oil the copper will show high elevations that is being leached from the oil coolers, but this is not an indication of bearing wear. In my opinion when choosing an oil it comes down to how much over kill do you want and does one want longer service life and more riding time. We all have different motivations and concerns.
george
 
#7 ·
Good info, are you relieved that the Arizona heat is not doing your bike in?
 
#8 ·
Yes!!!! The reason I sent the sample in.
I expected the oil to be way more broken down than it was.

Thanks Vindex good info. Have you sent oil samples in before?
Yes for my 04 Softail and my 07 Ford ranger.

I ran that oil in my 04 for 32,000 miles before I tore it down. When I did tear it down it looked like I was tearing down a brand new motor.
That's good to know.

Thank you for posting results
You're welcome.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Not a problem. Makes me feel at ease knowing it's good for extreme temperatures.






I really thought I would get at least some response from the people that have such a fit over putting auto oil in a motorcycle. Threads that mention using this oil get a lot of negatives from it will ruin the motor to I'm just cheap but it looks like it's ok to do so and save some $$$ by not buying into the V-Twin on the bottle and the cost that goes with it.
 
#11 ·
The other thread kind of went it's own way.


Once again the auto 15-50 $22 a 5 qt jug came out good. Who needs the V-Twin on the bottle.

This will help tell you what the report means.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php


I removed the 04 Softail test because it really doesn't apply to my current bike.

My 09 Ultra. This oil was tortured by running at extreme heat for extended periods of time riding 2-up. 270*+ sometimes exceding 300*.
I didn't know about a TBN before but the one for the Ultra is very good!!



Thanks vindex for the info...fatty
 
#23 ·
Not bad.

I was tipped to look by another thread.

And, BTW, know the major difference in a 20W50 car oil and a 20W 50 V-Twin oil?

Me neither!

As far as I know, it's then label.

Trivia: at 40 weight the EPA rules change. I have been told by people that get paid to know these things.

That's why the biggest delta in car and MC oils in the 50 range could well be label and price.

I don't worry about it.

I would, however, like to see a TAN, now AN, run. BN is typically a diesel thing.

TAN= Total Acid number
TBN= Total Base Number

Indicators of the oils ability to neutralize harmful acids.

Myself, I've choisen toe rely on a RULER. Gives an indeication of oxidative life left, among other things, and I can run it on my desk with 400 microliters of oil.


Keep up the goodness.
 
#28 ·
I would think that someone out there would have something to offer here. Pry the $20.00 from your hand and have your opinions of the latest and greatest put into writing. Quite a few have threatened to get a UOA done but they didn't. Someone will post brand ## is better than brand @@ and it will turn into 10 pages of it looks better so I switched. Prove it...


George my wife has a fax at work that I can use. I'll P.M. the number to you.
 
#33 ·
Vindex/George,
Nice low numbers on your wear metals and still a good pile of 'cleaning' elements left. `Specially for 9k.

....tho the Blackstone average for Moly makes you go 'huh'? -- 'universal' must be MC engines not strictly HD VTwin engines...

2 questions:
1) were all 9k miles in one season, or did this go over a winter storage?
2) is there a TBN in there somewhere? I see it blank on the Blackstone, but can't quite make out the other report...
 
#34 ·
Vindex/George,
Nice low numbers on your wear metals and still a good pile of 'cleaning' elements left. `Specially for 9k.

....tho the Blackstone average for Moly makes you go 'huh'? -- 'universal' must be MC engines not strictly HD VTwin engines...

2 questions:
1) were all 9k miles in one season, or did this go over a winter storage?
2) is there a TBN in there somewhere? I see it blank on the Blackstone, but can't quite make out the other report...
I posted these for George. They aren't from my bike.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Well, I had every intention of collecting a sample a couple of days ago when I did the 10k service on the Limited. Unfortunately, I remembered just after I'd drained the transmission into the same pan. I'm leaving for Arkansas and Oklahoma tomorrow morning, so I should have another 5,000 miles worth of riding done over the next 2 weeks or so. I've got a note on the workbench to get a sample of the oil, and I'll be sending it in as soon as I get it.

And if you're looking for something to discuss and/or argue about until then, this is a 2010 FLHTK with a TTS, a Fat Cat, and a Ventilator a/c running Amsoil 20W-50. I switched to the Amsoil at the 1k service, ran 10W-40 over the winter, back to 20W-50 at 5k in the spring.
 
#42 ·
I've got the Blackstone kit George, aren't they certified?
 
#43 ·
No they are not. When using them don't put too much faith into their recommendations. I can point out on several samples in the past where their recommendations of what oil to use for example or viscosity was way off base per OEM specs for the concerned vehicles. These inaccuracies have been brought to their attention and are being corrected. There was no problems with the actual reports of data, just their comments were out in left field somewhere.
george
 
#49 · (Edited)
What does it all mean? They don't compare it to anything or say what range it should be in.

2009 FLHX 9,500 miles
8,500 on Amsoil 20w-50
HD aftermarket oil cooler.
Thanks,
Corey
Corey,
The sample is good, especially for 8500 miles without an oil change on a new engine. Wear will always be the highest during the first 5 to 10 thousand miles on most engines. The copper most likely is coming from your oil cooler and your slightly elevated silcon level is most likely dirt entering through your air cleaner. Keep in mind that all these materials you are looking at grow along with the miles on the oil so if typical iron wear for 5,000 miles is 10 ppm and you have nearly 10,000 miles it would be at 20 so you are wearing at a normal rate. This also apply's to the dirt and copper. You mention that is shows no comparisons like some other labs. I believe they asked for more info in the comments section so they could give you some comparisons. Blackstone labs shows the normal wear to compare with, but if a person doesn't understand how to figure these universal averages based on mileage on the oil they are very mis-leading. Let me know if you have more questions. I see you are using Amsoil's original motorcycle version and not the newest product.
george
 
#45 ·
Looks to me like your OK. Search the Oil thread for other reports to compare your results against.