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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As long as the weather cooperates a couple of us are taking the bikes to a test-n-tune date at Zmax Dragway next saturday. This will be my first time making a pass on the bike, but I've been down both the 1/8mi. & 1/4mi. many times in the cars.

I'm hoping to break into the 11's with atleast one back-up pass so I can submit for the S&S 11-sec. club.

A little nervous, but can't wait!! :chopper:


K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Paul... I take it you line up in one of the grooves from the cars? Any thoughts on where to start for rear tire pressure, on a Metz-880 150mm 16" wheel?

My only real concerns at this thought point is clutch/throttle control on the launch, and then getting my foot to the forward control in time for the 1-2 shift...


K.
 

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Paul... I take it you line up in one of the grooves from the cars? Any thoughts on where to start for rear tire pressure, on a Metz-880 150mm 16" wheel?

My only real concerns at this thought point is clutch/throttle control on the launch, and then getting my foot to the forward control in time for the 1-2 shift...


K.
Yup, find the groove-I like to line up in the one closest to the tree (inside groove if possible) to stay farthest away from the wall. If it's a warm day you may just want to ride around the burnout box and roll up to stage. Just leave like you are leaving a street light in the beginning, only bring the revs up alot more.
Tire Pressure-This will be based on several factors (weather, track, HP, chassis etc, but you might want to start around 14 lbs and see how it hooks. Don't be afraid to bring up the revs at the tree. Ask for a Sportsman light-not a Pro tree. Sportsman will have the bulbs drop as you know from your car days.
The 1-2 shift with forward controls is just about the hardest thing to do during the entire run. It happens in an instant and while you are getting pushed back on launch, you have to swing that left leg forward and up to bang 2nd.
Takes a little practice but I did it on my 96" FXR that had forwards with an 11.88 @ 112 MPH, which got me that shirt. Maybe before you get there, practice at stop lights-Bring up the revs, and keep trying till you get the hang of it. Of course at the track you will be nervous and have all kinds of other things on your mind but repitition is great to almost make it automatic.
 

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Paul... I take it you line up in one of the grooves from the cars? Any thoughts on where to start for rear tire pressure, on a Metz-880 150mm 16" wheel?

My only real concerns at this thought point is clutch/throttle control on the launch, and then getting my foot to the forward control in time for the 1-2 shift...


K.
Try an air shifter with a engine kill peg at the back of your bike , drag bars so you can lean on over the gas tank
 

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Paul... I take it you line up in one of the grooves from the cars? Any thoughts on where to start for rear tire pressure, on a Metz-880 150mm 16" wheel?

My only real concerns at this thought point is clutch/throttle control on the launch, and then getting my foot to the forward control in time for the 1-2 shift...


K.
Hey Paul just want to thanks,you always have good info. John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Try an air shifter with a engine kill peg at the back of your bike , drag bars so you can lean on over the gas tank
I might look into an air-shifter, but otherwise no drag-bars, etc... If the track tempts me to continue going back I'd rather find a bike specific for that.


K.
 

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Speaking of air shifters..etc...Paul, you got any more info on that Dale walker ? Is there a better person to contact there you know of? I gotta call soon. Seems my dynojet powershifter that only worked when it wanted broke in half on the dyno..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Seems my dynojet powershifter that only worked when it wanted broke in half on the dyno..
Funny you mention that... I was going to ask how that was working out for you! Don't you have to run a PC for it to work?


K.
 

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Yeah i piggy backed a pcIII with a zero map so it didn't affect Dave's tune and even with the software installed and set properly, phone calls to dynojet, no one could figure out why it only worked sometimes and completely killed the bike other times..Oh well, time to move on to some thing else.

I am looking into the Baker N1 racing drum as well.
 

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I use a mer air shifter with engine kill it is one unit.kill time is adjustable
40 to 100 mls,full throttle shift 6500 push button keep throttle pegged 6500push button so on, and so on. I live in the Boone dock in a 1mile stretch I have the only house no traffic I practice push the button lots of fun. You can use foot shift also around town small air cylinder slide easily without air I got it from mps
 

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keith, as mentioned start out easy and work up to getting after it. it will come to you rather quickly.my choice in grooves for test n tune s always the left groove. gomers like to run the air while sitting in there hot rod mitsubishi. this will drain condensate out of the evap box most often on right side of car.have fun!!

btw, 10.40's with no air shifter or wheelie bars, pw is quite a bit quicker than that. just some milestones to shoot for!!
 

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Hey Paul just want to thanks,you always have good info. John.
Thanks-I have street raced Harleys for $, then graduated to the track with no bar naturally aspirated HD bikes running 11's, 10's, and finally 9's (working on the 8's this year with my track only street legal bike). It's alot of fun and I love to see guys getting into it-I'm just trying to help as guys have helped me over the years...:)

@gree: :beer:


K.
Thanks again!

Speaking of air shifters..etc...Paul, you got any more info on that Dale walker ? Is there a better person to contact there you know of? I gotta call soon. Seems my dynojet powershifter that only worked when it wanted broke in half on the dyno..
You can still usually get Dale on the phone. He has the Powershifter 2 (which I use) and his newer all button Powershifter 3. The "3" does need some fabbing for bracket and mounting etc...
BTW, My race team mechanic has a Pingle all electric button push shifter that he is giving me on the house so I was thinking of pulling my Walker and putting the Pingle on my street bike. I am replacing my old FXR trans for a fully prepped one shortly so I figured that would be a good time to do everything. The problem with the all electric (not air shifter) Pingle has been full throttle engagement with a load on it (not as obvious on the dyno). A back cut prepped trans and Baker N-1 from what I hear has cured this issue. I will see...
http://www.pingelcnc.com/pingelonline/easy_shift_4.html
http://www.pingelcnc.com/pingelonline/video_lowrider_closeup.htm


I use a mer air shifter with engine kill it is one unit.kill time is adjustable
40 to 100 mls,full throttle shift 6500 push button keep throttle pegged 6500push button so on, and so on. I live in the Boone dock in a 1mile stretch I have the only house no traffic I practice push the button lots of fun. You can use foot shift also around town small air cylinder slide easily without air I got it from mps
I love my air shifter on my track only bike but it is not practical for me to be constantly filling the air tank for a street application.
Wonder if there was a way you could run Nitrogen in the tank for hundreds of shifts without re fills and without blowing air lines? Now that would be fun for a street bike application!
 

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Thanks-I have street raced Harleys for $, then graduated to the track with no bar naturally aspirated HD bikes running 11's, 10's, and finally 9's (working on the 8's this year with my track only street legal bike). It's alot of fun and I love to see guys getting into it-I'm just trying to help as guys have helped me over the years...:)


Thanks again!


You can still usually get Dale on the phone. He has the Powershifter 2 (which I use) and his newer all button Powershifter 3. The "3" does need some fabbing for bracket and mounting etc...
BTW, My race team mechanic has a Pingle all electric button push shifter that he is giving me on the house so I was thinking of pulling my Walker and putting the Pingle on my street bike. I am replacing my old FXR trans for a fully prepped one shortly so I figured that would be a good time to do everything. The problem with the all electric (not air shifter) Pingle has been full throttle engagement with a load on it (not as obvious on the dyno). A back cut prepped trans and Baker N-1 from what I hear has cured this issue. I will see...
http://www.pingelcnc.com/pingelonline/easy_shift_4.html
http://www.pingelcnc.com/pingelonline/video_lowrider_closeup.htm



I love my air shifter on my track only bike but it is not practical for me to be constantly filling the air tank for a street application.
Wonder if there was a way you could run Nitrogen in the tank for hundreds of shifts without re fills and without blowing air lines? Now that would be fun for a street bike application![/QUO
Paul mps sell a regulator,so you can run a nitrogen tank off a paint ball gun.refill where they have paint ball games. They also sell a small 12 volt air compressor to mount on your bike. 140 psi. I here a lot about pingle all electric shifter and what I here is not good. They cost almost 1,000 bucks
 

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Paul go to ahdra. Talk shop,science of racing,page 1 or 2 pingle electric shifter
Thanks John,
Are you running Nitrogen? This Muzzys kit looks like there is alot more too it than just a bottle and comp.
I talked to one of the guys in that thread who said once they got their trans worked on, the Pingle electric worked good. I got mine free so I will see. Don't want to spend more money than I need on the street bike. Race bike first-I could always foot shift with the Walker and a Baker N-1 if it doesn't work.
Saw this from Muzzys but the kit is only for FI sportbikes:
http://www.muzzys.com/MZAS-K12/index.html
 
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