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Discussion Starter #1
I was checking the auto tune module out for the Thundermax ECM. It seems pretty neat, plus they say the map dosen't have to be real close for it to tune, just takes a little longer to adjust itself. Not cheap but neither are dyno tunes.
How many people have used this ?
 

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Vagrant
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I haven't seen anything on this but it sounds awesome. It's brand new. Maybe it's all hype but just imagine, no more dynos after big changes!! It needs their ECM too. The one thing about my fuelie 5.0 was that I was always trying to fool the closed loop system into being more power oriented than economy oriented. A true closed loop feedback system with a bend towards power would be very cool for the EFI crowd. Imagine using knock sensors to adjust timing based on fuel quality too. A little octane booster and yer off to the races!

ThunderMax AutoTune Module Now Available! The ThunderMax Auto-Tune Module works with your ThunderMax EFI controller to create a Wide-Band Closed Loop EFI System. Add pipes, change cams – AutoTune’s on the job! The ThunderMax AutoTune processes feedback from two wide-band oxygen sensors to adjust the fuel volume at all RPM’s and throttle positions. These sensors continually provide feedback for corrections to the fuel map values for optimum performance, Custom-Tailoring the Fuel Map for your application!
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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HD-LUX said:
I haven't seen anything on this but it sounds awesome. It's brand new. Maybe it's all hype but just imagine, no more dynos after big changes!! It needs their ECM too. The one thing about my fuelie 5.0 was that I was always trying to fool the closed loop system into being more power oriented than economy oriented. A true closed loop feedback system with a bend towards power would be very cool for the EFI crowd. Imagine using knock sensors to adjust timing based on fuel quality too. A little octane booster and yer off to the races!

ThunderMax AutoTune Module Now Available! The ThunderMax Auto-Tune Module works with your ThunderMax EFI controller to create a Wide-Band Closed Loop EFI System. Add pipes, change cams – AutoTune’s on the job! The ThunderMax AutoTune processes feedback from two wide-band oxygen sensors to adjust the fuel volume at all RPM’s and throttle positions. These sensors continually provide feedback for corrections to the fuel map values for optimum performance, Custom-Tailoring the Fuel Map for your application!
It does seem like the ideal! Especially because taking a look at many of the EFI maps posted on this forum, there is no real tuning going into the timing tables. Even in the maps with the most thorough A/F tuning, the timng is often untouched or has a couple of blanket timing guesses in it. One map that I saw looked like the tuner did make an effort to tune timing at 80 and 90% throttle - in one cylinder only.

Wouldn't it be something if as you say, with performance in mind, a closed loop system automatically bumped the timing up to ride a few degrees ahead of the knock point, adjusting for AFR, engine temp, altitude, etc. You'd not only get optimum performance, you'd get it in spite of the lack of availability of a knowledgeable tuner - and if you changed cam, head design, etc. your engine would dial itself back in immediately. Throw in a multi-profile option (eg. tune for strip, street, or max economy) and you'd have it all. Oh - sorry, I didn't mean to release tech secrets on HD's 2008 ECM unit..... (LOL)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well i bit the bullet and bought the thundermax and auto tune.
When i hook it up i'll let you guys know how it works.
 

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mori55 said:
Well i bit the bullet and bought the thundermax and auto tune.
When i hook it up i'll let you guys know how it works.

I just hooked mine up yesterday and set the IAC vs engine temp setting. This weekend I hope to put a couple hundred miles on it. I also plan on going from sea level (Los Angeles) up to 6,500 ft, (San Bernadino Mtns) and see how it does at elevation.

I REALLY like the software. Being able to read the afrs front and rear is nice. I like being able to set an "over all" afr, or adjust a specific rpm and throttle position. That way I can keep 13.1 at idle and off idle, lean it out at freeway speeds to conserve gas, and know it will still be rich when I get on it. I'm keeping the settings they way they are until I run a tankful of gas through it and get an idea on my inital mpgs.​
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Paniolo said:



I just hooked mine up yesterday and set the IAC vs engine temp setting. This weekend I hope to put a couple hundred miles on it. I also plan on going from sea level (Los Angeles) up to 6,500 ft, (San Bernadino Mtns) and see how it does at elevation.

I REALLY like the software. Being able to read the afrs front and rear is nice. I like being able to set an "over all" afr, or adjust a specific rpm and throttle position. That way I can keep 13.1 at idle and off idle, lean it out at freeway speeds to conserve gas, and know it will still be rich when I get on it. I'm keeping the settings they way they are until I run a tankful of gas through it and get an idea on my inital mpgs.​
For some reason i can't seem to open the closed loop module settings. Went into configure then clicked on closed loop modules settings, then nothing happens. If i click on nitrious a box opens. must be doing somthing wrong.
 

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mori55 said:
For some reason i can't seem to open the closed loop module settings. Went into configure then clicked on closed loop modules settings, then nothing happens. If i click on nitrious a box opens. must be doing somthing wrong.

I got my auto tune system Tuesday and installed it. I had the same problem and called Pete. Here is what you need to do.

When you are in the SmartLinkIV do the following

Look at eth Blue bar on the top. The very right should say Module Type + EFI Closed Loop. IF not do the following

Select File, then select New. Now select File again and you should see the last Map you used. When you select it you should then get the message that the Map has been converted to Closed loop. Now select Configure and the Closed Loop Module Setting should now be black and usable.

Seems there may be an instruction missing in their documentation. Pete is working with their group on it.

I have about 300 miles on mine now and have been impressed. Have gained some more power over the original Thundermax and the MPG has gone up also.
 

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I gave the bike a good run today, everything from slow and go traffic on the freeway, to long stretches of 75-85mpg runs. I threw in some "limited space manuevers" on the MSF course too. The bike idled fine, in fact it idled so smooth while sitting, I noticed my mirrors and bars were shaking a lot less than before. The motor behaved well at all rpms. It was almost like driving a car. My first tank of gas was 32.1mpgs. That's a bit better than the 27/29mpgs I got before the closed loop. I think slowing down and maybe leaning it out a bit at freeway speeds will help those numbers come up. I am not ready to adjust the afr yet since the ECM is still "learning" my bikes build, and my riding habits. Tomorrow I plan to run up to 6,300ft and see how the bike performs at altitude.

The down side. The self cancelling turn signals STILL DO NOT WORK. I'll try entering some other speedo calibration numbers, but I really think the issue lies somewhere between the Zippers ECM and the bike. I'll see what Fitz, and Kitz say on Monday.

Mori55,

One thing you should check, is that the MAP you have open, is the same MAP that is read in the ECM. I was having problems with that for a while.​
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info guy's, everything is working fine now. One more question on the iac auto tune can i do this again ? I did it once and got half way through it and knocked the plug out with my foot. The next time i did it the graph was above the the map curve not below it like the instructions. I moved the blocks up to meet it and everything seems fine, it idles between 900 and 1000.
One thing i noticed is how much smoother the bike idles and runs, and this is with maybe 50 miles on it if that.
My biggest problem is where to put the connectors, on a softail there's no room at all. If any of you have a softail let me know or post some pics of were you ran the harness and hid the connectors.
 

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IAC Reinitialize Process

quote from JDK @Zippers

No problem. Re-connect with your laptop, go to the TOOLS menu, click CLEAR IAC MODULE OFFSETS, cycle the key switch off 5 seconds and back on, and re-start your IAC-AUTO from a cold engine. There should be no need to re-initialize if you never interrupted battery power, or re-load the map. If anything weird does happen, then I'd just re-load the original map, clear the offsets again and start over.

If you do make a change that requires a map change, then yes, you must re-initialize, clear the offsets and run the IAC-AUTO to set up for the new map.
 

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AutoTune results

I am running the AutoTune module on my 103" SEEG. It runs great, noticably better than pre AutoTune.As far as MPG, on a 40% hiway @ 70mph, 60% around town I am getting about 38-39. Thats up about 5 mpg from where I was with the same map without the AutoTune. I have done a little experimenting by adjusting for economy mode around 2800-3200 rpms to a AFR of 14.5, leaving the rest of the map alone at 13.1. Weather is too bad to ride much, so will have to wait until next week to play around some more.
I am running the 575 cams with D&D Fat Cats.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just came back from riding and a little bar hopping and all can say is, it's running smoother and smoother, plus it seems to have more power.
The engine even sounds better.
 

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Morri,

Glad it is working out for you.

I have about 500 miles on mine and it still seems to be getting better.

I have a Dyna Super Glide, so not sure anything I have for pictures would help. The front I put up under the tank along the wiring that was already in place. I ended up with the connector at the junction of the down tubes and the back bone and got it all tucked up and wire tied up in there out of sight. I did remove the rear tank bolt and raised the tank to fish the wires in and then replace the bolt for the rear mount ant then did the same for the front. I used a 1 inch wooden dowel to hold the tank up while I fished the wires through. I found the wires just tucked in with the others and had to use very few wire ties.

I think I ran the wires about 10 times before I figured out where I wanted them to end at. I have slack for both the front & back on my set up which I am thankful for. If you want pictures of any of it, let me know and PM me with an e-mail address and I will get them taken and sent to you. Might take a week to get them to you (The old job thing interfering with important things).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hjdistl said:
Morri,

Glad it is working out for you.

I have about 500 miles on mine and it still seems to be getting better.
I'm really impressed at how much smoother my bike runs. I thought it was fine before i did this but it's a whole lot better now. Also seems to have more power than before.
 

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Very interesting. I want to read what the future comments on this topic. With this reply I will. :thanks:

Thorns
 

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Hey guys, been lurking here and wondering where you all got the unit?Zippers direct? Also how much is it? Any one with the unit installed plan on dynoing. Maybe even doing a 3 run test to see how the afr actually is. Just learning and wondering. Thanks.
 
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