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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've pieced together a complete set of tins for a project and would like suggestions on how to remove the old paint in preparation for the new paint.

The tank, front and rear fenders came from different bikes (thank you ebay) so the colors are all different. The front & rear fenders are stock HD paint, the tank however has been repainted with custom graphics. The tank also has the seams smoothed on the upper (console) and lower (dash panel) half.

What are my options? I'm thinking a paint stripper would be the most efficient and painless method. The other option is to sand, sand and sand ... The only problem I forsee with the paint stripper is the bondo that is smoothing the seams. Will the chemicals eat the bondo too?

Am I going in the right direction with the stripper or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.
 

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ultravista said:
Am I going in the right direction with the stripper or is there a better way?

Thanks in advance.
As long as she doesn't tell anyone else about it your good to go. :thumbsup:
 

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ultra,
I have tried several different ways, "aircraft stripper"(original, not the low odor verson) works pretty good but will take several applactions,( or more if factory paint is 2 tone) also will require sanding when done. The striper may soften the filler or stay in any porus spots and show up later. Look in the yellow pages under sandblasting and find one that does media blasting, explain the paint and filler under it. they should be able to remove the paint with little or no damage to it. its not that expensive (over all I think it's the best bang for your buck) when you start to figure in stripper, brushes, disposal, your time,and you can't forget the beer factor!
 

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The factory paint if in good condition will not have to be completly removed done hundreds of repaints over factory paint(cars and bikes) never had an issue. I would remove any bondo and redue the body work as u dont know how well or old the repair is. A good sanding with 80 on a DA will remove the paint fairly quickly..
 

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what he said

Fxsts103ci said:
The factory paint if in good condition will not have to be completly removed done hundreds of repaints over factory paint(cars and bikes) never had an issue. I would remove any bondo and redue the body work as u dont know how well or old the repair is. A good sanding with 80 on a DA will remove the paint fairly quickly..
Why strip it at all if it's in good condition? Sand it, prime/seal it, & paint it. Unless body work needs to be done (ie custom work) why bother?
 

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1bdBagr said:
Why strip it at all if it's in good condition? Sand it, prime/seal it, & paint it. Unless body work needs to be done (ie custom work) why bother?

I wouldnt strip the factory paint as I said I have done plenty with only a 500 wet sand /feather chips prime and paint.

I would however remove someone els's work on the tank. U dont know anything about the work. Like if 2k prime products were used or if lacquer primers were used I have seen people still using Nitro stan putty ( just real thick lacquer primer) and there a plastic fillers that shouldnt be used under BC/CC finishes because the will bleed after a while. How do u know if the metal properly prepped prior to body work . I feel there are just to many things to go wrong going over the unknown. For 2 -3 hours of work is it really worth it.

I myself apply plastic filler over epoxy prime and not bare steel reason being that "Bondo " will suck up moisture.All u need is a scratch/chip down to the filler and u have a sponge on bare steel .I have redone other body mens repairs due to rust under the filler. Never seen it happen when epoxy prime is used first only when done on bare steel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was thinking of going with powder coat on the tins and was told that they must be bare metal. Does this sound right or ... ?

Can P.C. stick to paint or not?
 
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