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Discussion Starter #23
If I look into the exhaust port I can see the exhaust valve and all looks good there, open or closed. If I took the intake offand checked the intake you think that would be enough? I'd imagine I'd be able to see if a valve is bent this way? Not entirely sure as I've never dealt with that kind of thing before......
 

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im just offering a different view... in my experience,, when rotating any new build engine over by hand,, any resistance, stoppage or noises that i know an engine should not make at 1 rpm by hand,,, will only make its own clearance when running 1000-6000 rpm... rhe clearance it makes could be a sky light it the top of a piston..
i would find the noise, and fix it,, before it fixed itself...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I understand that and really appreciate your help and input. I guess what I am asking is there a way to tell if I have an issue without tearing it apart again?

I have turned it over by hand a 100 times since this has happened to try and diagnose but everything sounds good. Yesterday I blew air through the cylinders and as far as I can tell (didn't want to force too much) I am getting no blow by when in TDC.....that being said I haven't secured the rear wheel so it pushes the cylinder down and then blows through intake once it moves......I don't have the proper tool to perform a leak down test.....I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that if I had a bent valve air would escape through the intake and it would not force the piston down.
 

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How sure are you that the cam timing marks are popularly lined up? Myself, once installed I take a picture of them so I can assure myself later. When you installed the 95" kit which pistons did you use, flattops or higher compression domed? No matter which kind of pistons, they have intake (large) and exhaust (smaller) valve pockets cut into the top of the pistons for valve clearance, are you sure they are installed correctly? Again I take pictures. If you can say the timing marks are lined up, you have properly installed flattop pistons then you should be OK, The S&S510 is a bolt in, not a high lift cam so clearance should be OK. If you have domed pistons the clearance should have been checked. A leaked down would be the best way to check the valve seal. A compression test will tell you too but you will need to crank over the motor which if there is a clearance problem it can make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Pictures are a great idea. Especially wish I had more now since there are so many variables to be sure of. Cams are lined up 100%. 99% I installed pistons with arrow facing to the front of the bike.

I used SE 10:25.1 pistons. They do have a small done to them. I got the 95” jugs and pistons from a guy who ran the same set up with I higher cam that my 510 and he had no issues with clearance. Just to be safe I went with the stock gasket even though I had Cometic 0.30 as well.
 

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Not familiar with SE pistons BUT.do you have the install instructions? I don't believe they both point to the front unless there is a specific front piston and a rear piston. The reliefs would need to be opposite because the valves are opposite in the heads.
 

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Not familiar with SE pistons BUT.do you have the install instructions? I don't believe they both point to the front unless there is a specific front piston and a rear piston. The reliefs would need to be opposite because the valves are opposite in the heads.
I did a motor last year but not SE pistons, You had to look to make sure the proper pocket lined up with the proper valve per cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes. Verified online and with the guy who I got them from. Arrow pointing to the front of the engine.

until all of this I would have sworn I installed them right. Now I’m doubting myself and I don’t have a picture to verify. I’m 99% sure I got that right since it’s simple enough.

right now I’m leaning to tearing it down this weekend just to
Double check everything.
 

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Yes. Verified online and with the guy who I got them from. Arrow pointing to the front of the engine.

until all of this I would have sworn I installed them right. Now I’m doubting myself and I don’t have a picture to verify. I’m 99% sure I got that right since it’s simple enough.

right now I’m leaning to tearing it down this weekend just to
Double check everything.
Look through the sparkplug holes, motor hasn't been run so still clean with the pistons down you may be able to see the arrows.
 

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Put a piece of solder, .060, in the spark plug hole and test the clearance on the valve to piston. Don't know what pistons you are using but if they are the cast SE pistons with a small dome the valve reliefs are very far off. But that said with the mild TDC lift cam and small valves and a head that hasn't been cut the valves would not even clear the fire deck at TDC on overlap. I think the P to V may be a red herring and would try to take the pushrod covers and upper tube out and mock up and see if the sound was still there. I am assuming the heads have stock beehives and 7mm valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Tore the rear cylinder down last night...this is where I think the noise came from. Nothing out of the ordinary at all. All looked good.

Arrows in the right direction. I might add that these are not new pistons and where already relieved for larger valves by the PO. I am only running a stock 103" head set up.

I will do the front tonight.

When I put it back together I will make sure the lower rocker cover is as far away from the valve springs as the play will allow. Told this can sometimes be an issue as well.
 

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Zero issue if you have beehives which is why I asked. At TDC on overlap the valves do not go past the deck, add the gasket thickness and you (or anyone) could have pistons with no reliefs and it would be safe.
 

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with what you have used,, there should be no interference from the components,,, however,, shiittee happens,, you heard a wierd nouse,,, 1 time,, if you are confident you made no mistakes and over looked nothing,, ysu are satisfied with tour work,,, button it up and light it up.. uf you have any doubts,,, take it apart and check everything...

from your questions i assume this is your first, or one of your first engine builds.. with that in mind,, there is a greater potential,, something could need a little attention...
us old guys that have built literally1000's of engines, and not 1 stocker,, know our builds are as good as it gets,,, doing a warranty repair on an engine can get expensive fast,,, and even though you give the client no grief, and do the repair no charge and quickly, it is still a hit to the reputation, which is everything in the harley world..
 
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