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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all...hoping for some help or experiences from anyone out there.....

Yesterday I installed my adjustable pushrods, did the first cylinder, waited a few hours for bleed down (took a break) and then when I checked that all was good I went to turn the engine over with the rear wheel and I hear one loud ‘clack’ noise....sounded like something hard snapped. I was sh***ing my pants! Lol. I turned it over a few more times and nothing (this is by hand). Quite and smooth. Did front cylinder and no probs.

Last night I realized watching a YouTube video that I did not use the fatter o-rings on the top of the pushrod covers. Ooops. This morning was my do over. The exact same thing happened. Same noise, same time and not repeatable.

I am thinking something just being forced into its ‘home’ on the first turn over? I don’t really know. Last thing I want to do is tear everything apart to look but I guess it’s better than finding an issue on start up.

Just so you have some background I used new pushrods, new lifters. Nothing done to rocker arms, etc. My build is an 04 dyna that I just put in 95" cylinders, 103" Heads (got some nice newer take offs) and SS510 gear drive cams. Everything in the motor spun freely before pushrods and is now....just the one noise.......

Any thoughts?
 

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My first thought, are you sure the pushrod balls were in the rocker or lifter sockets? The rocker can be hard to see/feel sometimes. If it were out, it would "snap" when it dropped in, but the adjustment would be wrong now. Have you rechecked the adjustment after the "snap"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
From what I remember it seemed ok. I'll recheck once I am home tonight. For sure it wasn't 'really' loose......
 

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From what I remember it seemed ok. I'll recheck once I am home tonight. For sure it wasn't 'really' loose......
My first thought was same as @HDfatbagger but it would be really loose and quite noisy on startup. I did the same thing with the o-rings recently. Didn't realize until I was riding and oil was constantly weeping from the pushrod tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have not started it yet. I am still a ways away from having the bike complete with what I am doing this winter. Hoping to be able to start it by December or so. It was a loud noise for sure.......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just checked. Nothing seems overly loose. I can spin all push rods by hand fairly easily when at TDC on that cylinder but no real sloppy play in any of the rods.

I have spun the thing by hand probably 100 times now...lol. The noise has not repeated itself and everything sounds ok. Besides being kinda hard to turn with rear wheel (assume this is normal) everything seems smooth.
 

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most likely the adjuster section of the push rod/s,, making contact with the lower most edge of the upper pushrod tube,,, it is recommended to trim appx .350" or so off them all, to prevent this as a possible contact point...
a.standard plumbers small.pipe.cutter can be used,,, clean up the inside edge with the attached reamer... i believe S,&S has the instructions on their site if you need them..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ahhh...could be something like that but I think I still had the pushrod tubes lifted with wires.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thought I’d post some pics of my work to date. Not professional and all on a budget but lookin ok.
267426
267427
 

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When you spin the engine over with the wheel do you have it in 5th gear, that makes it easiest. About the only way I can think to check this is to re-do the pushrods on that cylinder and have a helper spin the wheel while you watch and listen closely, which is hard to do by yourself, from experience. I'd also do one pushrod at a time and spin over to narrow down to which rod, if it's a rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pretty sure I'm in 5th...I'll double check. I'm assuming even in 5th there will be a fair amount of pressure required to turn the motor over? Or should it be easy?

Was thinking of repeating this weekend but it doesn't repeat itself now. With everything done the bike turns over with no noise or anything out of the ordinary. I'm really torn on chalking it up to 'something adjusted itself' or as tall terry said the rod got hooked up on something when moving the first time. I don't want to do unnecessary work but I also don't want to have it start and something craters. LOL
 

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Even in 5th it's not easy, takes me two hands,but just making sure you knew. I agree it could be the adjuster nut catching the edge of the rod tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok....feel a bit better now...lol. Thanks for everyone's help/input. I'll see how I'm feeling this weekend about a do over. Let you know how it goes. A bit nervous doing this all for the first time......
 

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Do you have that bike strapped down to the lift? I can't tell from the pics. But it would suck to have it fall while you're sitting behind it turning the wheel. My lift has adjustable outrigger support bars to help stabilize everything. Just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No...I was going to do it but it seems really stable...lol. I modified the lift so it is wider at the bottom to clear my oil pan guard. Probably still should do it.......
 

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I recently had the rear tire off and didn't strap the bike down because it was going to be a quick job, i'm lazy, other lame reasons. Once the rear tire was off the bike apparently started slipping forward and was almost off the lift when I realized it. Would've been hard to get it back off the ground with the rear wheel off! I'm now anal about straps on the lift.
 

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once i heard a similar noise,, doing the same job,, adjusting valves on a new, hotrod engine build..

long story short,, when turning the engine over by hand after adjusting both valves, on the rear cylinder, separately, when i was doing #3, the wheel met some resistence,, and as i pushed it through, i heard a ting, with a slam almost simultaneously, turned out,, the famous head setup guy neglected to set the valve to valve clearance for a radical cam with .278", tdc lift in overlap,, chipped 1 valve, and bent the other... i paid top dollar and waited months for the heads,,, after he fixed them, they ran awesome, up to and beyond the 7k rpm the engine was set to turn

this could have destroyed the high dollar build if i had said oh well it turns fine now
 
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