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Winter SUCKS
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello again everyone, and thanks for your assistance on my previous post of building my 95". This Forum is awesome, and I sure am learning! I ride an 03’ FLSTCI with Vance & Hines Big Shots Staggered, stage 1 (SE breather/filter and download). I'm just looking for some really good extra “get up and go” at the throttle (nothing major). I usually (90%) ride solo, and my riding is usually in town, with the odd highway run thrown in (maybe a 200 mile day trip).

I’m looking at the HD 95" Big Bore kit, and am thinking about the following:

Screamin Eagle 1550cc (95 ci) Big Bore Kit including:
Screamin Eagle Cylinders
Screamin Eagle Pistons (Flat top – high performance)
Screamin Eagle clips and rings
Screamin Eagle air cleaner and breather hardware (already installed)
High performance clutch spring
Re-flash the ECM
Power Commander III USB

I will not be doing any headwork.

(I just added this - how about the SE204 cam & a SERT as opposed to above cams and the PC III?)

Here is my question - Which cam would you recommend: I am considering the Andrews 37G, or the Screamin Eagle 203 cam.

Thanks very much in advance for your time, I truly appreciate it. RIDE SAFE.


Mike
 

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FWIW

I would not spend the money for gear drive cams if your only doing 200 miles at a time. IE 37G The 204 would be what i would put in.
 

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The woods TW-6 is a good cam at that compression. Also the TW-26 or the TW-37 with the 26 being more bottom end oriented and the 37 more mid and top end oriented at that displacement and compression. Also S&S510 or Kuryakyn TC-1. Any one of these will do what you want very well. My personal favorite of the lot in your situation is the woods TW-6.
 

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recommendation from Andrews

I'm planning to install big bore kit and new cam. I planned to go with the 26G but called Andrews today just to confirm that was a reasonable choice. The tech support person I spoke with said to use the 26G only with 88". For 95" motor he said to use the 37G. I emphasized that this was going in a bagger and I was interested in low end torque but he was adamant about not using the 26G with the big bore. I'm going to try again tomorrow to see if I get a different person / different advice.

The Andrews web site suggests using their on-line tech support. Post a question and they will respond by e-mail. I tried that twice and have yet to get a response.
 

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Premium Member
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I just did a 95" build and chose the 26G cam since I did not do any head work. I only have 80 miles on it so far but I am very pleased. I ran it easy the first 30 then rode it like normal. It pulls hard off idle all the way to 105MPH. The 3.37 primary ratio shure helps it shine and 80-90 cruise is no problem. Good pick-up from 60 up in 5th gear, but drop to 4th, twist the wrist and...:woohoo:
 

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Addicted to American Iron
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460 Posts
IMHO if you look around on ebay and forget all the SE parts you have listed you can save a bunch of cash or use your cylinders and have them bored and honed to whatever 95 pistons you want. The clips and rings come with the pistons. You won't need the heavy spring. After you save all that money you can use what you saved and have a street port on your heads done. As for cams.....my buddy runs the 37 and raves about it. Just re-map the bike to start and ride it, give you time to see how it runs and to do research on the PCIII vs sert issue.
 

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killer sperm
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Dyna_mite said:
The tech support person I spoke with said to use the 26G only with 88". For 95" motor he said to use the 37G. I emphasized that this was going in a bagger and I was interested in low end torque but he was adamant about not using the 26G with the big bore. I'm going to try again tomorrow to see if I get a different person / different advice.
You musta talked to the village idiot. Your right about gettin another opinion, the 26 is a great cam for 95" baggers.
 

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IronButt
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9.1 compression with a 95 kit and a 26 g and that was not the correct cam?? Hmmm I would go with the 26g there has got be at least 100 members here that have that very same set up. and Ihave sold more than I can count. They all work great.
 

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I really think alot of their tech people just read from some FAQ sheet, They told me that 9.8 was way to high CR for the 37 and that I should look at the 44 or the 31 I think it was?? They are nice and easily accessable but their philosiphy..... I don't know, maybe they want to seem consistant with their printed/posted info and not be seen as contradicting themselves.....
That's all I can think of...
 

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I had a 99 FLHT with big bore, mild headwork, and TW37s. BIGGGG torque dip from 2300-2800, then it pulled hard. Changed to high comp forged pistons and the dip was gone. 9.8 to 1 is right on. My 04 SE bagger is getting Head Quarters HQ-0039Gs. Should make 110 ft/lbs.
 

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dyno sheet

I cant seem to figure out how to post my dyno sheet,I did the same build with the 204s if your curious I will send it to you.Email me at [email protected] and I will send it to you or maybe someone will post it for me if they want,computer illiterate I think its called.
 

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recommendation from Andrews

I'm planning to install big bore kit and new cam. I planned to go with the 26G but called Andrews today just to confirm that was a reasonable choice. The tech support person I spoke with said to use the 26G only with 88". For 95" motor he said to use the 37G. I emphasized that this was going in a bagger and I was interested in low end torque but he was adamant about not using the 26G with the big bore. I'm going to try again tomorrow to see if I get a different person / different advice.
I called Andrews today and talked with their main tech support person. He confirmed that the 26G was a good choice for low end torque in a 95" motor. The 37G will generate more HP but will have less torque at low RPM. He just dyno'd a carbureted FLHT with 26G, big bore, cast flat tops, minor head work (stock valves, radiused seats), 2 into 1 exhaust. He got 80 ft lbs @ 2000, 106 ft lbs @ 3000, and 94 HP @ 5300.
One other important piece of advice from Andrews tech support: CHECK PINION RUNOUT BEFORE ORDERING A GEAR DRIVE CAM. If you install a gear drive cam in a motor with more than 0.002" runout, something will break! According to 02 FLHT HD service manual, allowable crankshaft runout on new engine is 0.003". To check runout, remove pinion sprocket and set up dial indicator on crankshaft where pinion gear will mount. Turn engine over by hand (5th gear) and read min. / max. deflection on dial indicator.
 

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Seasoned Prime Member
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446 Posts
harleymike77 said:
I’m looking at the HD 95" Big Bore kit, and am thinking about the following:

Screamin Eagle 1550cc (95 ci) Big Bore Kit including:
Screamin Eagle Cylinders
Screamin Eagle Pistons (Flat top – high performance)
Screamin Eagle clips and rings
Screamin Eagle air cleaner and breather hardware (already installed)
High performance clutch spring
Re-flash the ECM
Power Commander III USB

I will not be doing any headwork.

(I just added this - how about the SE204 cam & a SERT as opposed to above cams and the PC III?)

Here is my question - Which cam would you recommend: I am considering the Andrews 37G, or the Screamin Eagle 203 cam.

Thanks very much in advance for your time, I truly appreciate it. RIDE SAFE.


Mike
One of my riding buddies just did this build 95" on his 06 Street Glide:

Andrews 37G gear drive cam
Wiseco forged flat top pistons
Bored and honed stock cylinders
Dewey's Pro Street heads
Rivera Taper-Lite pushrods
PC IIIusb
Vance and Hines true Duals
stock lifters
stock camplate
stock oil pump

101hp/114tq!!!!

I think the Andrews 37G is a great cam for a 95" build. His pulls hard from idle to 5000rpm. He loves the power he gets when passing on the thruway riding 2-up. You don't need the gear drive but what the hell, if ya got the money!!! Don't spend the money on S.E. cylinders. Most builders prefer boring a seasoned cylinder over a new cylinder. The $ you save you can spend on the gear drive cam!! You can go with the S.E. pistons but I think Wiseco's are a better choice in the long run, or at least a good KB cast piston. I like to run right around 10-1 C.R. I always run premium gas and if ya get stuck with shitty gas ya won't ping as bad. I don't see a problem running the stock lifters, camplate and oil pump. Now to the Heads!! This is where you're gonna make most of your power, or leave it on the table. The 06 heads are by and far the best flowing heads H-D has put out, but they are still stock heads. There are a ton of excellent porters out there. Dewey's, Big Al's, GMR, to name a few that aren't going to empty out your wallet for a good port job and you'll pick up alot more hp and tq. Doing a 95" build without doing heads is like a dry f&#$. You'll end up with blue balls!!:thumbsdn: Just my -2$en#e-



I'm:xhere:
 

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Winter SUCKS
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How's THIS build?

Thanks everyone...........You've all really stressed the importance of having the heads done. I was directed to www.bishopsperformance.com. Here is the package I am considering for summer install:

Package #2 Mid Torque
Approximately 90* hp and 95* ft-lb torque
Heads Stock, Stage 2 "HammerHeads"
Cylinders Bored Stock -or- SE 1550 Conversion
Pistons SE or Keith Black 95" Flat Top 9.25:1
Cams Andrews TW26G + Gear-drive kit
Air Cleaner SE
EFI = stock throttle body, ported
EFI = Tunable System
Clutch # Stock -or- Extra-Plate Kit
Exhaust # V&H -or- Cycle Shack slip-on mufflers,
V&H Pro-Pipe -or- Thunderheader 2-1

It looks pretty impressive, and they are located only 1 hour away in Michigan........It gives me the 95", gear driven cams, and headwork. Price out the door is $2700. They really stress the importance of a GOOD TUNING job, and will Dyno the bike after the break in.

Any thoughts out there about this build?? What about adding a Thunder Monster baffle?

Thanks in advance for your time. I appreciate it.
 

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Pinion Runout?

Dyna_mite said:
I called Andrews today and talked with their main tech support person. He confirmed that the 26G was a good choice for low end torque in a 95" motor. The 37G will generate more HP but will have less torque at low RPM. He just dyno'd a carbureted FLHT with 26G, big bore, cast flat tops, minor head work (stock valves, radiused seats), 2 into 1 exhaust. He got 80 ft lbs @ 2000, 106 ft lbs @ 3000, and 94 HP @ 5300.
One other important piece of advice from Andrews tech support: CHECK PINION RUNOUT BEFORE ORDERING A GEAR DRIVE CAM. If you install a gear drive cam in a motor with more than 0.002" runout, something will break! According to 02 FLHT HD service manual, allowable crankshaft runout on new engine is 0.003". To check runout, remove pinion sprocket and set up dial indicator on crankshaft where pinion gear will mount. Turn engine over by hand (5th gear) and read min. / max. deflection on dial indicator.

Has anyone else heard about or had this problem?
 

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Seasoned Prime Member
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446 Posts
harleymike77 said:
Package #2 Mid Torque
Approximately 90* hp and 95* ft-lb torque
Heads Stock, Stage 2 "HammerHeads"
Cylinders Bored Stock -or- SE 1550 Conversion
Pistons SE or Keith Black 95" Flat Top 9.25:1
Cams Andrews TW26G + Gear-drive kit
Air Cleaner SE
EFI = stock throttle body, ported
EFI = Tunable System
Clutch # Stock -or- Extra-Plate Kit
Exhaust # V&H -or- Cycle Shack slip-on mufflers,
V&H Pro-Pipe -or- Thunderheader 2-1

Any thoughts out there about this build?? What about adding a Thunder Monster baffle?

Thanks in advance for your time. I appreciate it.

Not bad. Persoally I'd:

Save some money and bore your cylinders.
Go with the Andrews 37G cam.
Use a piston that will give you closer to 10-1 C.R.

I think you'll like the results better, but that's just my opinion.:whistle:
 

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Cam choice for a 95"

Looking at all these threads with interest since I am gathering parts and pieces for a 95" upgrade. I decided to go with the SE211 cams. Anyone have experiance with these? They have a tad more duration than the 37's and .508 lift. Should give good mid-range with an improvement on the top too. Insight appreciated, but I bought the cams already!!

Mo
 

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Sounds like a good build. Bill Bishop stands behind his work and has a lot of satisfied customers.
 
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