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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious,what is your best break in rules?
 

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Make sure nobodys home.


sorry, can't help myself sometimes.
I bought mine used so someone else did it for me.
 

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followed the manual varying speed & rpm. I rode a lot of rolling hills during break-in...uphill in certain rpm range downhill in another.

Keep an eye on you fluids and don't sweat it.
 

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Do a search as this one has been repeated quite a bit in this forum:


Heat cycle your bike at least twice (run it for 20 minutes let it go cold do it again, I prefer to ride mine, most like the bike left on the kick stand)

Nothing over 3000rpm until 100 miles, change oil + filter

Short strong pulls in 2nd and 3rd to approx. 5000rpm up to 300 miles,

Longer stronger pulls up to 6200rpm after this to about 500 miles and then ride bike normal after this and then you will feel the bike getting stronger as the rings/cylinders achieve final seal. (approx. 900/1100 miles)

Oil consumption is normal during this period, the amount varies from bike to bike.

All the best, Ozzie
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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You might want to read www.mototuneusa.com. It's about halfway down the page. It's somewhat contraversial though.

I had basileys do my heads and Dan said thats what he recommends as does Latus HD. He said their race engines made the most horsepower since they've started braking them in this way.

The article claims the first 20 miles are the most critical, it's when the rings wear to the cylinders while the cross hatch is the roughest & the rings need the cylinder pressure behind them to wear in properly to seal the tightest.

I did what he said, hard acceration and deceleration down in 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears when I built my 95". If this made more power than the normal way, who nows? I went from 88" to 95", Basileys Pro Street port job & SE251 cams, it's going to change a ton anyway.

Chris
 

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Ride it like your normally would. You can go slow a few miles if you like, but after that just ride it.
 

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The guy from the service dept. that checked me out on mine said to vary your speed and no high RPMs and don't lug it, so that's what I did... mostly.

Dealership is 50 miles from my house, 50 highway miles. So when I rode it home I went between 65 and 75 for the first fifty. Then after that drove it as I normally would.

I've done this with both bikes I bought from them, and never hada problem or a leak.

My belief is that the first fifty is the most important to get the rings sealed, and that you need to get them good and hot to seat. Heat cycling them only causes possible gaps with expansion and contraction that may not always be even.

I like to get it hot, and keep it hot, then treat it as normal.

This however is MY break-in routine, and works for me.
 

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I heat cycle it a couple of times then go gentle with it for 200 miles or so and use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. Change the oil, put clean Dyno bones in it with new filter. Then ride it semi hard no red line for 300 more. Then just ride it normal for (usually means some red line) 500 more. Change oil to Mobil 1 and filter then run it 200 or so miles and get it dyno tuned.
 

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I'm with FatBoy... Motors aren't "Gently" broke in between rounds/heats at the race track. Typically, and I agree with Mototune's theory, that critical mating of rings/cylinder walls occurs within the first couple of miles. I have always broke my V-8's in by firing them up and running them like they were built to be run.

At 9,400 miles, I still have like new hone hatch in my 88 jugs. Rear cylinder broke in right, front piston showed significant blow by.

This adds to the belief that "hotter is better" during break in too, as the front cylinder gets all the cool air. I'm the second owner of this bike. Just competed my 95" build. I will follow Mototune's break in procedure when I fire it up. (Valvoline 20W50). MUST BE DINO OIL during break in, and for at least the first couple thousand miles before switching back to a good Synthetic.

Ride it, don't dog it or lug it, but follow Mototune's procedure, probably 20-25 miles. Take it back to the garage, drop the oil and change the filter and ride it some more.

My -2$en#e- but it has always worked for me.

DLR
 

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Get the back wheel off the ground. Put in first gear and lock throttle WIDE open for one hour. Then push off stand and watch her go!

Oh, you said break-IN, not breakING. Sorry, what everyone said is right. Every engine is different so there is no set way to do it. Do whatever you feel really.
 

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Following Dan Baisley's advice after my 95" build I started it, let it warm up, then rode it hard. Fast acceleration and deceleration. No problems at all. I'm not sure if this would apply to a brand new bike though. :huh:
 

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pa-glazier said:
Following Dan Baisley's advice after my 95" build I started it, let it warm up, then rode it hard. Fast acceleration and deceleration. No problems at all. I'm not sure if this would apply to a brand new bike though. :huh:
I did this also as Baisley advised when I put the 95" build with 1200 miles on the bike. I did keep the rpm's from getting to high, just ran it hard through 2nd thought 4th gears. But I was kind of glad I did the initial break in as Harley advised.
 

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Gary Stolzenburg AKA the owner of F&S HD in Dayton Ohio who built Steve Moreheads dirt tracker (among others) race bikes told me.
Heat cycle her 3 times then run it to the moon.
Look at ANY race team they heat cycle the machine then race it.
Yeah I know racers have the luxury of free engine parts and mechaics to do the rebuilds.
I have always heat cycled the engine then raced it, two stroke or four stroke, *** or HD, never had a failure, I'm still doin it that way since 1974.

We had a little known racer at the time (Ben Bostrom) from team Zero Gravity come in for some dyno testing, he had a new race bike we heat cycled it then dyno'd the crap out of it, no problems.
Let's see there was Gary Rogers, Michelle DeSalvo, several new SuperTracker dirt track bikes...I could go on... heat cycle 3 times then let er rip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
breakin

I know how I am doing it I just wanted to see some of the different ways others do it ,interesting.Although I dont think I would drive two miles and let her rip,but thats me.
 

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ohiomotoxer said:
Gary Stolzenburg AKA the owner of F&S HD in Dayton Ohio who built Steve Moreheads dirt tracker (among others) race bikes told me.
Heat cycle her 3 times then run it to the moon.
Look at ANY race team they heat cycle the machine then race it.
Yeah I know racers have the luxury of free engine parts and mechaics to do the rebuilds.
I have always heat cycled the engine then raced it, two stroke or four stroke, *** or HD, never had a failure, I'm still doin it that way since 1974.

We had a little known racer at the time (Ben Bostrom) from team Zero Gravity come in for some dyno testing, he had a new race bike we heat cycled it then dyno'd the crap out of it, no problems.
Let's see there was Gary Rogers, Michelle DeSalvo, several new SuperTracker dirt track bikes...I could go on... heat cycle 3 times then let er rip.
Hi there OHIOMOTOXER, yep, I do believe that most everyone will go this route eventually and it will be the accepted "norm" for breakin procedures for many shops.

The bigger issues the big car and bike manufacturers have is to overcome production honing and piston and ring fitting.......hence the need for quite long and laborious breakin procedures.

New engines from the factory (any factory) generally need to be babied during the break in process cause you/me/anyone as the rider/driver have no idea of the bore hone/piston fit etc. from the factory.

After market products/boring pistons etc. let the guy doing the build get to see what he is about to put together and generally the hone is better, the piston fit is better and the rings have the correct gap etc...............all this leads to more efficient breakin procedures that take less time.


All the best, Ozzie
 

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woodmaster said:
Just curious,what is your best break in rules?
I've always broke in new motors the way I would dirve it up to the suggested rpm for break-ins. rings & walls usually seat within the first 25 miles, period...
 
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