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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike came with a weird pin to lock the castle nut on the rear axle. Looks like a fat hairpin. Never thought it worked well. Ronnie's and my FSM show a different one that loops over the end of the axle after the tail of the pin goes through the hole. Right now I'm using a basic standard cotter pin. What's the big deal? Will the cotter pin work as well as the others? I have a drawer full of them!
The Stock One
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What's on it now.
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FSM and Ronnie's
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Guess it takes an engineer to make something "special". At least the HD "Retaining Pin" only costs $1.49.
 

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Those snap pins are harder metal, so its harder for the nut to cut the pin. You can get hard Cotter pins, just don't expect to find them at your local autoparts store.

I suspect Harley uses a snap pin because its faster to install and inspect on the assembly line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I figured the same with the hardnest. Today was a good example as I was trying to drive a roll pin out of my trailer crank with a blunted nail. Couldn't find my drift pin set! Learned not all nails are the same! So I'm pretty sure not all cotter pins are either. The snap ring for production is a good idea Thermodyne. Makes sense if think like HD on the production line. What I don't get is my original "hairpin" design. Anyone ever see one like that on a bike from the factory?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I found these with a quick search. Also saw galvanized and stainless steel cotter pins. But Colony's are chrome!

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have found and experienced that applying the proper torque works well, at least to the next tire change...
Yeah that too. In my case it's supposed to be 65 ft lbs but if I use that the hole doesn't line up for the pin. So I've been backing it off just enough to get the pin through. And I'm getting a new torque wrench!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wouldn't buy anything off of Ebay that was not in oem packaging. That place is flooded with Chicom knock-offs and under spec crap. Same goes for Amazon.
Oh I hear ya, but you can't tell the difference these days. I bought some hardware from my Indy and he confessed he got it from his supplier. Who knows where they got it! Guaranteed they didn't buy it from Harley. Besides, it's a known fact Harley uses a lot of Asian parts. I worked for a gaming mfgr once and I was the buyer. I purchased Bingo, and Lottery Balls from China. Pad Printed Ping Pong Balls. I found out they were made in old WWII converted factories and the employees were paid by a bowl of rice a day and a cot inside. They were happy with that.
 

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I wouldn't buy anything off of Ebay that was not in oem packaging. That place is flooded with Chicom knock-offs and under spec crap. Same goes for Amazon.
I found that out when looking for starter locking tabs. Chicom crap sucks.


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Those snap pins are harder metal, so its harder for the nut to cut the pin. You can get hard Cotter pins, just don't expect to find them at your local autoparts store.

I suspect Harley uses a snap pin because its faster to install and inspect on the assembly line.
They also look, to me, like they're designed for re-use; unlike a standard cotter pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They also look, to me, like they're designed for re-use; unlike a standard cotter pin.
That's what started this whole thing. My original "hair pin" style one. It came from the factory with it. After having off and on a few times I didn't want to use it again because it lost it's tension. And everything I've looked at doesn't show that type. Weird.
20210502_130731.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got so curious it was killing me so I started surfing Ronnie's Microfiche. Found it on Dyna's! Also discovered Road Kings, even Police Editions use what appears to be a standard cotter pin. Googled the p/n and found it. Not that I'm going to use that type again, but mystery solved. Kinda. Why did a Dyna pin end up on a Softail? Friday job?

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