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Straight 30wt oil....
Ride and handle like a truck with 30WT. Maybe a garbage barge (bagger), but not a nimble FXR, with good springs. Run some Race Tech springs and emulators and 15w or 20 w fork oil you'll be impressed, unless your just going to the corner bar.
 

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Changed the broken crappy vtwin speedo with a less crappy new vtwin speedo/tach. We will see how long it lasts.

Also ordered the rest of the junk to do the mid control swap. Have the stuff for either or setup as far as the shift shaft goes. Whatever I dont use with be for sale.


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Ride and handle like a truck with 30WT. Maybe a garbage barge (bagger), but not a nimble FXR, with good springs. Run some Race Tech springs and emulators and 15w or 20 w fork oil you'll be impressed, unless your just going to the corner bar.
Mine don't act like that... Course... I only can stay in the saddle for 100 mis at a time... Decidedly Not Iron Butt..
Heavier wt fork oil only Slows the hydro action.. lighter responds faster.. including rebound..
 

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I have 15w in the forks now. Stock springs though with 2" longer damper tubes and Racetech emulator valves sitting on top. I have 30w, that's been sitting around in the shop for years. Think I'll try it. It will be easy to change if it rides like a rigid front. I might have to replace the 20 year old springs too.
 

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I have 15w in the forks now. Stock springs though with 2" longer damper tubes and Racetech emulator valves sitting on top. I have 30w, that's been sitting around in the shop for years. Think I'll try it. It will be easy to change if it rides like a rigid front. I might have to replace the 20 year old springs too.
Ensure you use the proper... By The Manual, Amount of oil...
I do Not see how adding longer Dampers can possibly help anything... leaving Less Fork tube in the Lower, seems a recipe for "Flex"
 

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Yep the damper tubes are coming out, thanks. I thought I'd try them and I'm not impressed. I think at the very least they will wear the bushings out quicker. Worst case i'll leave up to the imagination. I always have put oil in by volume, as the manual specs, not by height.
Some of the newer forks or manuals may stipulate 'oil height' but mine does not. I think the 'air cushion' some talk about may be important on newer or inverted front ends. Damper tube fronts with longer or stock forks I still use volume.
 

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Bleed new lifters. Over the years I've absconded with cake and bread pans, the turkey baster, measuring cups and various utensil's from the wife's kitchen, and used the dishwasher to clean cylinders.. Got ahold of her vacuum sealer and a vacuum sealer container, submerged lifters in oil, hook it up and cycle a couple times. Watch the bubbles, done. Be sure to put it back before she get's home LOL. View attachment 265644 View attachment 265644
Is your day job something to do with engineering or government specs? Finding ways to make $2 jobs cost $200.

Just pump the tappet full from an oil can, then dip the rollers long enough for the oil to get into the bearings. Like maybe a minute.
 

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Well, pulled my inspection cover out and found this. The part number comes back as the shovelhead part number, however, that blob of crap is covering a piece of the shifter sleeve from the L84 style. Apparently they cut it and left the oring seal in the primary and just slathered it with silicone. I guess I gotta ditch the E84 shift shafts I bought and pop for a tube style setup.... tedious.


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Thats not a part number. Its a casting number. It may be the same as the PN or it can be earlier than the PN.
 

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@Thermodyne thanks for the info! I've been chasing after stuff making myself crazy. Ended up buying all the parts for either or setup.... wasteful yes, but I figured I would be prepared for whatever I find.

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Yep the damper tubes are coming out, thanks. I thought I'd try them and I'm not impressed. I think at the very least they will wear the bushings out quicker. Worst case i'll leave up to the imagination. I always have put oil in by volume, as the manual specs, not by height.
Some of the newer forks or manuals may stipulate 'oil height' but mine does not. I think the 'air cushion' some talk about may be important on newer or inverted front ends. Damper tube fronts with longer or stock forks I still use volume.
Sounds like all it needs is a higher spring rate. As for the long dampers, that just messes up everything related to spring preload and ride height.
 

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"Is your day job something to do with engineering or government specs? "
LOL, just a retired pipe fitter. Nothing wrong with the oil can, works well.
 

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When your primary plug has a stripped head since before you've owned the bike and you've been able to finesse it...until this time.


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I don't have an easy out. Have to pick one up later. Still have to remove the pulley to get to the quad seal and fix that leak.

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Important???
Yet something I have never done, and I may have had a couple Harleys thru the years...
If it makes ya feel Good, and costs a bit More... it must be a necessity???
 

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I did the 5qt change too when I first got this 84 because I had no idea what type of oil was used before and it was blacker than my diesels oil, so I made sure I had good clean oil when i buttoned it back up. And now I'll just do the standard oil change.

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Took my ‘82 FXRS for a ride and a fellow rider noticed my head bolt bouncing up and down on top of the jug bolt - the one on the front cylinder that won’t come all the way out until the head is removed. Found out that it has the 12 pt bolt head on it and previous owner had taken pliers or something to it so torque adapter won’t fit on it. Been driving 12 point socket onto bolt head hoping to recreate the bolt head so I can torque it. I can get a socket on it now, but not the torque adapter. Ughhh. Have to keep working on it.☺
 

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Took my ‘82 FXRS for a ride and a fellow rider noticed my head bolt bouncing up and down on top of the jug bolt - the one on the front cylinder that won’t come all the way out until the head is removed. Found out that it has the 12 pt bolt head on it and previous owner had taken pliers or something to it so torque adapter won’t fit on it. Been driving 12 point socket onto bolt head hoping to recreate the bolt head so I can torque it. I can get a socket on it now, but not the torque adapter. Ughhh. Have to keep working on it.☺
It hasn't blown the Head Gasket???? Miracle I say
Anyway... "feel" one of the bolts that is Tight... duplicate that "feel" on the Poor one... better than letting it Bounce about...
Afraid that sucker would already be torn down at Our farm...I'm betting I can have an Engine In, in the time it takes to dis-assemble and re-assemble the Top End...Cheaper too these days..
 

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Tried a viton o-ring in place of the quad seal. I'll update in 5k mi on longevity.


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