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You really don't have much to work with, but soldering will work fine. If you had more wire you could cut each one an inch shorter than the next, so all the joints don't line up.
 
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Since that set up doesn't use the ign mid harness, I would break out the Deutch connectors and put a connector right on those wires. Then run/reuse the needed wires to the switch and coil with a connector on them to match. Then instead of the connector being an oily hard rubber POS under the frame. You'd have a nice sealed connector just below the nose cone.
 

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Ugh. Gotta work with what ya got.

I would do my best to stagger the soldering as much as possible. Have you seen the solder-seal connectors?

OR
Purchase marine grade connectors and make that a connector right there.
 

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Ugh. Gotta work with what ya got.

I would do my best to stagger the soldering as much as possible. Have you seen the solder-seal connectors?

OR
Purchase marine grade connectors and make that a connector right there.
I got the solder seal connectors used them lots before,but theres little wire to stagger. im going to go with a deutsch or Molex connector.
 

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Unless you KNOW its history, don't buy used 'lectrics...

If you must, extend the wire{s} with a good amount of extra for the routing & splicing on the other end. Do your BEST work.
The wire loom on my Crane ignition was short by 4" {for proper routing}. To make it easier to work with, 12" was added. The "extra" was formed into a loop and secured it in the battery compartment on the left side.
An ohm meter is needed, do your BEST work.

 
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Opened up my new S&S 33-5353 tappet set bought from dennis kirk , but the tappets have different numbering on them 330-0724 instead of 33-5353. I been trying to search 330-0724 on S&S website but dont get any results. Im waiting on a reply from both DK and S&S
Any of you guys seen, used these?



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I have been hearing of Chiwanese Copy of S&S parts... numbers and all... But that Packaging and Marking look genuine.. Bets when the S&S guys get back from Sturgis, you will get some answers..
 

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I have been hearing of Chiwanese Copy of S&S parts... numbers and all... But that Packaging and Marking look genuine.. Bets when the S&S guys get back from Sturgis, you will get some answers..
Just got the reply from S&S.You have tappets with the HL2T travel limiters, The number on the tappet is an individual tappet number while the 33-5353 is the kit number
 

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That sucks. Ultima copied there Carbs.
Not Very Well tho... the things just don't work Properly...None I have seen, tho I "hear" of some that Work!!!
No "copies" for me, thanks

Just got the reply from S&S.You have tappets with the HL2T travel limiters, The number on the tappet is an individual tappet number while the 33-5353 is the kit number
Oh... I guess I kinda knew thy had some other number for travel limiters... I use travel limiters on Drag Strip bikes.. otherwise... Nah
Glad they got back to you...and fairly Quickly, since I know most of the "crew" is in Sturgis
 

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Not Very Well tho... the things just don't work Properly...None I have seen, tho I "hear" of some that Work!!!
No "copies" for me, thanks


Oh... I guess I kinda knew thy had some other number for travel limiters... I use travel limiters on Drag Strip bikes.. otherwise... Nah
Glad they got back to you...and fairly Quickly, since I know most of the "crew" is in Sturgis
I wasn't sure what tappets to buy, only that i wanted decent quality. When i was 1st looking at S&S tappets i read this at the bottom of the product description
NOTE: Stock 84-85 and all S&S Evo-style lifters require the use of 149302 travel limit kit.
Thats what steered me to these ones with the travel limiters.

Got the 2000+ front end on with racetech springs, emulaltors, longer dampner rods and stabo swingarm bushings and Ohlins shocks on the rear end. Next week hope to have the motor re assembled and in the frame.

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I wasn't sure what tappets to buy, only that i wanted decent quality. When i was 1st looking at S&S tappets i read this at the bottom of the product description
NOTE: Stock 84-85 and all S&S Evo-style lifters require the use of 149302 travel limit kit.
Thats what steered me to these ones with the travel limiters.
Interesting... and here I sit with a set of Jim's HydroSolids afraid to use them in my Street Bike as they are purportedly Noisy
Please report back if Noisy, or Possible, S&S does a better job in MFG.
Lookin good on yer Project...
I still ain't got Paint... Humidity been between 75, and 90 percent!!!!
 

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Myself and dozens of others I know have run Johnson-Hylift from this guy for thousands of trouble free miles. Made in America.
http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/lifters.htm
And they seem to be the Go-To... Never a problem..
I have a tendancy to acquire stuff from various other folks "projects" which is where these came from... Not something I would Purchase.. Maybe I Flip 'em....
 
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