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Working on forks today. Adding emulators and custom springs.

Just as an FYI for them that wonder just what the hell emulators are, it's a little adjustable spring-loaded valve that takes of the function of the fixed holes in the damper rod.

The gold part in the photo

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As oem the fork just uses 2 - 3/16 holes in the damper rod to meter oil and control ride quality. It's a very minimalistic (cheap) way of doing it, and you end up with the well known Harley mush front suspension. The emulator turns the fork into a valved shock absorber.

This is a damper rod after modifying it for emulators.

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The two holes marked in yellow get drilled from 3/16th to 1/4 inch. Then 4 more 1/4 inch holes get added, marked in blue. Then you chamfer them for good fluid flow and put it all back together. This basically removes the damper rod fulit control function and allows the emulator valve to take over.

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I saw a gif of an emulator function. Very educational.
 

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I'm glad to see that you drilled out the damper rods.
You can also tune it with the tension on the blue spring.
I had a real noticeable improvement in mine, before & after.
 

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Can't wait to do this myself. Are you guys putting in new springs for any reason (progressive).. ?
I'm using a set of Race Tech springs. The springs that were in it were just oem long fork variable rate springs that had been cut down three inches to increase the spring rate.

Big differance in the amount of pre load compression. The oem springs had an 8mm spacer in them to set the ride height. The RT springs have a 35mm spacer.

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A long over due rotor change as my old ones were down to 4mm, the minimum is 4.5mm. Splurged a little bit with these EBC floating wave rotors along with their semi-sintered V pads. I had a bit of trouble getting the rotor bolts out, soaked them over night with liquid wrench. Also had to cut a notch in a rotor to accept the speedo drive as I have a sealed bearing, 2000+ wheel. I like the contrast of the modern rotors and the old school wire spokes.


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Why glad? Emulators won't work on these forks unless you drill the tubes
IIRC years ago (when I put mine in) there was a discussion wherein you said, that you were told by someone, that drilling out the damper rods was not necessary and didn't make a noticeable difference.

A long over due rotor change as my old ones were down to 4mm, the minimum is 4.5mm. Splurged a little bit with these EBC floating wave rotors along with their semi-sintered V pads. I had a bit of trouble getting the rotor bolts out, soaked them over night with liquid wrench. Also had to cut a notch in a rotor to accept the speedo drive as I have a sealed bearing, 2000+ wheel. I like the contrast of the modern rotors and the old school wire spokes.
I like it too!
 

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IIRC years ago (when I put mine in) there was a discussion wherein you said, that you were told by someone, that drilling out the damper rods was not necessary and didn't make a noticeable difference.



I like it too!
I don't recall saying that about emulators. If you don't open up the rods, then the rod will limit the function of the emulator once it reaches maximum flow. The rod has to flow more than 100% of what the emulator valve will flow.

Now, way back in the days of single bushing Showa forks and old FL forks, people would braze the holes shut, then drill new smaller holes. After that, they cut the springs 5 inches and replace some of that with water pipe. To stiffen them up and make them dive less. Probably kept them from bottoming out so easy. But with the tires and brakes they had back then, I doubt it made any difference in how they handled.
 

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Working on forks today. Adding emulators and custom springs.

Just as an FYI for them that wonder just what the hell emulators are, it's a little adjustable spring-loaded valve that takes of the function of the fixed holes in the damper rod.

The gold part in the photo

View attachment 273210

As oem the fork just uses 2 - 3/16 holes in the damper rod to meter oil and control ride quality. It's a very minimalistic (cheap) way of doing it, and you end up with the well known Harley mush front suspension. The emulator turns the fork into a valved shock absorber.

This is a damper rod after modifying it for emulators.

View attachment 273211

The two holes marked in yellow get drilled from 3/16th to 1/4 inch. Then 4 more 1/4 inch holes get added, marked in blue. Then you chamfer them for good fluid flow and put it all back together. This basically removes the damper rod fulit control function and allows the emulator valve to take over.

View attachment 273212
What weight oil did you use? Im installing them in my forks tomorrow, racetech recommended 20wt, i alreadyhave 2 new bottles
Working on forks today. Adding emulators and custom springs.

Just as an FYI for them that wonder just what the hell emulators are, it's a little adjustable spring-loaded valve that takes of the function of the fixed holes in the damper rod.

The gold part in the photo

View attachment 273210

As oem the fork just uses 2 - 3/16 holes in the damper rod to meter oil and control ride quality. It's a very minimalistic (cheap) way of doing it, and you end up with the well known Harley mush front suspension. The emulator turns the fork into a valved shock absorber.

This is a damper rod after modifying it for emulators.

View attachment 273211

The two holes marked in yellow get drilled from 3/16th to 1/4 inch. Then 4 more 1/4 inch holes get added, marked in blue. Then you chamfer them for good fluid flow and put it all back together. This basically removes the damper rod fulit control function and allows the emulator valve to take over.

View attachment 273212
What weight Oil you use? Im installing them in my forks tomorrow, ractech recommended 20wt, i already have 2 bottles of 15wt so will give a try with that 1st.
 

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What weight oil did you use? Im installing them in my forks tomorrow, racetech recommended 20wt, i alreadyhave 2 new bottles

What weight Oil you use? Im installing them in my forks tomorrow, ractech recommended 20wt, i already have 2 bottles of 15wt so will give a try with that 1st.
I mixed some that I had on the shelf. 1/2 and 1/2 with 15w and 20w, so 17.5w would be the result. I still have the 20w that came from RT, but thought I would try using up what was already on the shelf first.
 

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Took it out for the first test ride today.

Suspension is night and day better than before. I thought it might be a little stiff. But its great as is. All I had to do is move the rear shock valves a click softer to get it balanced front to rear.

Breaks are an improvement over the oem setup. It'll take some miles before they reach their full potential, but they are better than before, right out of the gate.

The cam is as expected, soft till 3500, then hang on.

The speedo seems to work fine. I'll need to carry the instruction sheet with me for a while, till I remember how to access all of the functions. And I only set it up for a few of the dozen or so things it can do. These universal gauges need to be calibrated to the scooter they are installed on. And will work with pretty much any sort of speed sensor. I just used a 3 wire Hall effect sensor in the trans.

To calibrate it, they suggest using a measured mile, or using a pace vehicle. I just let the old speedo pace me. Mounted it to a fork leg then matched the speedos at 50mph.

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I had the Lambda meter on it too. With the bigger cam, it reads a little fat on the meter but runs well. So I'll leave it be for now. I might drop it a size on the slow jet later, just to see what happens.
 

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To calibrate it, they suggest using a measured mile, or using a pace vehicle. I just let the old speedo pace me. Mounted it to a fork leg then matched the speedos at 50mph.

A much easier and accurate way to calibrate that speedometer to use an app like Waze on a phone mounted next to the speedo. Simply get up to speed and make a mental note of the delta. Stop, adjust, repeat until perfect. Your bike probably already has a mount for the phone. Surprised you have not already thought of this. Or maybe you have. Glad to hear everything is working as planned.
 

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A much easier and accurate way to calibrate that speedometer to use an app like Waze on a phone mounted next to the speedo. Simply get up to speed and make a mental note of the delta. Stop, adjust, repeat until perfect. Your bike probably already has a mount for the phone. Surprised you have not already thought of this. Or maybe you have. Glad to hear everything is working as planned.
I thought of it, but the speedo has to be adjusted on the fly. So having the other speedo in my line of sight worked great. One button does everything on the speedo. To adjust the speed, you enter the service menus then when you get to the adjust part, you hold the button down to make changes. First push and hold counts up, then the next one counts back down. then it repeats till you exit. About 1mph/sec. And it probably took less time to clamp the speedo head to the fork leg than it would to set the app up on my phone and install the phone holder on the bars.
 

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Finally got some time to work on my bike again . Mounted up the oilpump, re shimmed breather gear and set camshaft end play this arvo.
I feel a little extra tightness on every fouth rotation when spinning the crank. I still feel it after removing the camcover and cam. I have used a good bit of assembly lube when mounting up the oil pump.
Any ideas?
 
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