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Comments would be to clean all that carbon out. And replace the PCV parts while you have it apart, they are pretty cheap.

There is an oil return hole mod that should probably be done since the heads are off, involves drilling them a little bigger but that's all the detail I have, a search should get the details.

Sounding like your pump or cam plate might be bad, something is certainly causing it to leave a bunch of oil in the sump. Did you pull the pump apart and make sure everything looks normal with the rotors and housings?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Will definitely clean up the carbon if those pistons go back in. Considering all options since I have her torn down this far.

I did inspect and clean the fuel pump and all parts when I pulled it back out. Everything looked fine. Just like when it went in but since the feuling tech offered and I have it torn down this much I went ahead and pulled the cam plate and oil pump and shipped them back to feuling yesterday for inspection and confirmation that all is to spec.

The feuling tech seemed to think bad rings causing leak down is contributing to the wet sumping. My dyno tuner said the same thing. He said he saw this issue in an 03 tc88 recently. No significant power loss just wet sumping and blowing oil into the breather. I did a simply water test on the valves. They seat well enough to hold water.

Looking for a local machine shop to check out the cylinders and heads. Zippers isn't far from me in MD so that's an option but they seem to be very expensive for simple machine shop services. I'm not looking to build a race engine, just get my tc88 back on the road with with no wet sumping/oil puking and possibly a little performance improvement without a massive expenditure.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Update: Found a good local machine shop that mostly focuses on classic muscle cars so it was fun to visit.

Cylinders are somewhat out of round so boring them out for a 95" kit, valve job to clean up the seat angle and new springs/seals. Also installing an oil pressure gauge and still looking for a temp gauge. The oil pressure/temp dipstick I ordered from the MoCo did not work on my bike even though they thought it should.

Feuling got my camchest and oil pump yesterday and said they should have it evaluated today. Pistons, rings, top end gaskets, and a few other assorted parts ordered.

Got a good feuling pinion runout gauge on my pinion shaft. One I used before was a knockoff from ebay and I wasn't convinced it was accurate. It read just slightly ver .002. New one read .0015, so that's good.

Drilled out the oil holes in the rocker breather assembly and cleaned them up. Cleaned out the sump and oil pan. Hoping to get her back together next week but can't get on the dyno until the 30th so no riding in July.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So I got her back together last night and did a few heat cycles in the garage. That first startup was scary AF to be honest but she quieted down quickly. Took her out for a ride nothing past 3K RPMs. Didn't get a mile up the road before I noticed oil flying again. One of the top o rings on a pushrod tube was only half on. Fixed that and reseated all the tubes to be safe. All was well. Running pretty good on the old tune actually. Definitely feel the additional cubic inches.

Wanted to get some miles on the new rings before I took her to the dyno this evening so I went out for a ride. Mostly back roads up and down through the gears still keeping under 3000 RPM. Got about 100 miles on her and I heard a really weird screeching noise. Pulled over and at idle I heard a clattering that sounded like the compensator. Wasn't far from home so I headed that way. Pulled out of a side road onto the highway into the median, when traffic cleared I pulled out and shifted to second, let the clutch out and she reved but didn't go...WT...coasted to the side of the road thinking tranny or clutch issue...drive belt was gone. Looked back up the road and there it was in 3 pieces on the side of the road.

Obviously concerned with why that happened. I'll pull the primary apart tomorrow. Stealership said 3 weeks to get one ordered.

My dyno guy warned me DO NOT go aftermarket on the drive belt. Any differences of opinion? I would think S&S Cycle would have a quality product. It's about the same price as HD.
 
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