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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my VROD a couple of weeks ago. Idle didn't seem right when I got it. Almost seemed like it was going to stall out when sitting at a light.

Additionally, when the bike rolls at 5-10mph in gear with no throttle it almost stalls out and chugs.

Dealer told me it was suppossed to be that way. I took it back because it just didn't feel right.

A second technician looked at it and agreed it wasn't right.

They replaced the idle control valve but still the same problem. Now they are thinking that maybe the plugs weren't gapped properly from the factory. Have to bring it back next week.

Anyone have any ideas or heard of this.

-Dipper
 

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Your bike is not running right. For a dealer to tell you it's suppose to behave the way it is behaving is...well, let me bite my tongue.

I've read many, many posts about the V-Rod in many forums & sites. I have NOT heard of any V-Rod acting the way you describe.

Any owners out there hear of this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Pasadenajim. I agree!!!

I'm just trying to be patient with them. Three strikes and they're out.

I'll weigh my options if they can't find the problem next week.

Seems to me it might make a good hood ornament for the Dealership's Owner.

I'll keep you posted.


-Dipper
 

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Something is not right if it wants to stall. It could be something as simple as some bad gas. Fill it up with good premium gas.

The plug gap would effect the timing, but the idle? It would have to be way out.

Idle speed is approx 1200 RPM. It is controlled by the ECM and cannot be adjusted like a carb, with an idle adjustment screw.

From the HD VRSCA Electrical Manual, page 4-56:
(Summarized)

A loss of idle speed control does not necessarily imply the IAC has failed.
Intake air leak, improperly adjusted throttle linkage, or mis firing can all contribute to low idle.

Same manual, page 4-6:

After turning the key to IGN and the engine stop switch to run (but not starting the engine), Does the Check Engine Lamp stay on longer than 4 seconds, indicating a code has been set?( the lamp is near the 30 mph mark)
If it only stays on for 4 seconds, no codes have been set
If it stays on 4 seconds, goes off for 4 seconds, and then comes on for 8 seconds, and then goes off, a historic code(s) have been set.
If it stays on for 4 seconds, off for 4 seconds, then stays on, a current code(s) have been set.

Historic codes will clear after 50 trip cycles.
Current codes indicate a sensor problem.

Good Luck
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jeff:

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

When I took the bike back a second time. The technician did record an error code. The error code was a rolling idle code.

They replaced the idle control valve and had to reprogram the ECM. No error code this time. But the problem is still much the same.

It seems to me that they also checked the other things you mentioned.

As I said... they want me to bring it back next week to check the plug gap.

I will mention to them the other issues you stated.

I hope it's not a lemmon. I think the big problem is these bikes are so new and no technicians have really gone over them. Hopefully it's something simple that they just didn't think of.

Can you tell me a little bit about how your VROD runs?

Can you coast at low mph (5-10) in gear and not have it chug like it wants to stall?

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again

-Dipper
 

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yo dipper

i've experienced the chug at low spped you refer to-----but i think it's normal---IF its like you say , "with no throttle"------i have to feather the clutch if i'm going that slow, so she wont chug----------something sticks in my mind about reading something that the rod did not not idle down and stay there in gear---------it would make the cpu responsible to make quick fuel adjustments while trying to move its 600# self , plus the rider, with no throttle position input at just above stall point---------i would be willing to bet the other Rod Riders feather the clutch at idle while moving very slow too----------

another thing , is she still may be tight --------just a thought----

went over 3000 yesterday-----she's runnin good

Hutch
 

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I would have to say mine chugs a little coasting along at idle, it wants to go faster. I am at 2500 miles. It is important that the shops and techs get training on the new models, but HD has had Fuel Injection for a while now. This is just a different application.
I must not been able to find it - rolling idle error code.

Good Luck.
 

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Mine chugs at low speed -no throttle input, and it feels normal compared to other bikes I've ridden. It's a pain in the ass but that's the good thing about the warranty -they gotta fix it no cost to you. :)

Be sure to post what fixes the problem...I looked through the manual and quite frankly the troubleshooting section sucks.
 

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While out riding today, I had the opportunity to talk to three V-Rod owners. One had a problem akin to the one described. His problem was fixed when the dealer tinkered with the fuel injection a bit. Don't know if that will help, but it's an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quicksilver, Hutch, Jeff, JoeJitsu and Pasadenajim:

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Very much appreciated.

I will make sure I tell the dealer about all you have mentioned.

I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Thanks again!

-Dipper
 

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Dipper,
Ditto with other posts and your original squawk. I do "feather" the clutch at low speeds to avoid the chugging you describe. My guess is that this is a characteristic of the bike.
Curtjn
 

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Discussion Starter #12
VROD Idle
Well Folks:

Finally got my bike back after a week of it being at the dealer.

They said that they went over it with a fine tooth comb....made a lot of adjustments ie... throttle, fuel, air... etc...

They said it runs great now.

When I got it back... started it up and it seemed to sound better.

After letting it idle a bit... problem came right back although not quite as bad.

Needle is still bouncing between 1000 and 1200 rpm.

I guess I'll just have to wait and see if it improves with time.

I can tell you this... I'm never going back to that dealer again!!!

Got one a bit closer and when I went to them a couple of weeks after I got my bike... they were a lot nicer and more accomodating.

Just got Harley's... customer survey in the mail. You can bet I'm going to slam the dealer!!!

Safe riding....

-Dipper
 

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I had the same problem. Took the bike home and just rode it to break it in. It gets better and better with every mile. At about 100 miles it was noticeably better. By 300 miles the idle jumping and slow speed stalling was all gone. I got 450 on it now, it's almost broken in and it purrs like a kitten.

Give it time. The dealer I got it at said that 2 more V-Rods they had did the same thing and it cleared itself up with the engine break-in period. It will get better. The shocks will also loosen up, I don't know about anyone else but when I first got mine the shocks were so hard it was like the tires were bolted right to the frame.

Bill
 

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Birds of a feather...

I think that the consensus seems to be you've got to feather the clutch to make the bike roll smoothly at low (<10 mph) speeds.

I just got my bike back from the 1000 mile service, and when sitting at idle the tach does noodle back and forth between 1075 and 1200 rpms. Making slow-speed turns especially you need to be careful or you will get some chugging. This has been a bit of a learning experience for me, but I don't see it as a problem worth worrying about. Of course, I have to admit I still stall the bike out from time to time.
 

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Just curious, but of those posting here that are having problems with their low RPM's, who has had the screaming eagle package installed, and who hasn't. Maybe nothing, but I wondered if the low RPM's were going to be affected by the top end increase in Horse Power with the pipes and EFI kit.
 

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I was having stalling problems with my V-Rod with the Screaming Eagle Tips and Stage 1 ECM installed. I took it to the dealership and they put my stock exhaust and ECM back on. It hasn't stalled once since. Harley Davidson has since released a service update concerning my problem. My dealership called and told me they have to order a temperature switch relocation kit and download a ECM remap to fix the problem. I'm anxious to get my SE exhaust back on. I'll let you know how it works.
 

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I have a 2013 v Rod was ridding it going through a intersection and it died no engine only the red alarm key light lit puled the clutch in hit the starter and it started any one have that happen to them bert
 
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