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Discussion Starter #1
ok, with the regulator unplugged from the stator I test for voltage on each pin on the connector, correct? is this done with key on or off?
 

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Let me start by sayin' that you unplugged the rectifier (not the regulator). Your stator generates AC current. AC is easier and more efficient to generate than DC. A rectifier changes AC to DC... which in turn charges you battery. This is for your own personal information. I want you to be well informed.

I don't know what a "Voltage regulator" bleed test is... but I just explained you don't have one anyway.

To test a stator... (I think this is what you are asking about) us a multi meter. Select "ohm's" on the meter and measure ohm's on both pins. You are not measuring voltage with this measurement technique.

So you touch one pin of the stator with the multi meter and the other end of the multi meter you touch to ground. You can use the crank case for ground. Then do the same for the other stator pin end. The ignition needs to be off.

You should read "infinity" or "open" or "no ohms" for both pins. If you read any resistance on the meter... the stator is grounded... and that means the stator is junk.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Let me start by sayin' that you unplugged the rectifier (not the regulator). Your stator generates AC current. AC is easier and more efficient to generate than DC. A rectifier changes AC to DC... which in turn charges you battery. This is for your own personal information. I want you to be well informed.

I don't know what a "Voltage regulator" bleed test is... but I just explained you don't have one anyway.

To test a stator... (I think this is what you are asking about) us a multi meter. Select "ohm's" on the meter and measure ohm's on both pins. You are not measuring voltage with this measurement technique.

So you touch one pin of the stator with the multi meter and the other end of the multi meter you touch to ground. You can use the crank case for ground. Then do the same for the other stator pin end. The ignition needs to be off.

You should read "infinity" or "open" or "no ohms" for both pins. If you read any resistance on the meter... the stator is grounded... and that means the stator is junk.

I hope this helps.
to help you, I have a rectifier/regulator it does both changes ac to dc(rectifier) and grounds out any power not needed to charge(regulation). the test you state is a ohm test on a stator , you can test voltage at the stator and should have 25-75 volts, by running engine and it unplugged measuring on ac scale, which I have done. the bleed test tells you if the rectifier/regulator is letting voltage bleed back through it(see link).

someone who knows help? its not a new test and I cannot find my electrical diagnosing book, @#$%.

http://sjhr.org/articles/repair01.htm
 

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Your right you have regulator built in with the rectifier.

If I remember right, the bleed through test is you put the bulb on and see if it lights at all, to see if any voltage gets through.

Not 100% test, but I rev it up and see that it doesn't go over 14.4ishdc, at the battery.

I wish the would give a millivolt # for the bleed test instead of the light bulb.

Have you had any bulbs burn out, black inside? That can be a sign of over voltage.

wether to have to bike on or not, I would say on, you need voltage at one side of the regulator, to see if its getting through.
 

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Looked at the manual. Unplug stator from regulator. Put a test light on stator side of the regulator, and see if it lights up at all. So you would be looking for dc.

Its telling you if the battery is bleeding through the regulator.
 

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I don't know what a "Voltage regulator" bleed test is... but I just explained you don't have one anyway.
.
This is the problem with forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looked at the manual. Unplug stator from regulator. Put a test light on stator side of the regulator, and see if it lights up at all. So you would be looking for dc.

Its telling you if the battery is bleeding through the regulator.
so am I to assume its with key off?

I just got done doing some checking on my bike, in the garage I got it to start acting up, and I had my multi-meter on it. the on board gauge was acting up and the multi-meter was steady at 14.2. leading me to believe I have a gauge or connection at the gauge problem. local Indy I talked to said the rectifier/regulator is either bad or good, any truth to that?
 

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I would think with the key on. You want to see if you are bleeding through from the DC side to AC side. If key is off you might not have power there. I am not sure if you would or would not actually.

14.2 is close to good enough. Alot of meters can't read down to 14.4, and I don't think .2 is a big deal. You don't want it spiking over anyways.

Problem is it can be intermittent, which can also wreck stuff light battery and electronics.

If you got 14.2 and haven't blown anything up, I say we don't know its bad.






So what has you looking into this in the first place? That might be a better question.
 

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How many miles? I am not afriad to replace somthing that has alot of miles on it. It is a weak link for Harley.

But, I don't think it is your charging system. I am thinking connection or sensor, screwing with your ignition system?????
 

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My 07 would buck and ping, once in awhile. Turned out to be a wire from throttle position sensor, TPS, was rubbing on fins. Stuff like that is hard to find. You can try wiggling wires as the bike is running.

To be honest you got ____ _____ ____ing problem to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
talked with a local Indy today, he said check the bleed with the key off. also like me thinks I have a gauge going bad. however I have a high voltage code so I am putting a new regulator on the bike.
 

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talked with a local Indy today, he said check the bleed with the key off. also like me thinks I have a gauge going bad. however I have a high voltage code so I am putting a new regulator on the bike.
Good move, did you check the voltage at the battery at about 2000 RPM? I had the same issues with my bike, did the check and I was getting over 20 volts!! replaced the Regulator and all has been well for 30,000 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good move, did you check the voltage at the battery at about 2000 RPM? I had the same issues with my bike, did the check and I was getting over 20 volts!! replaced the Regulator and all has been well for 30,000 miles
no ,I have never seen a spike or high voltage, but it stored the code for a reason.

when I was checking the voltage at the battery I was getting 14.2 on my multi meter around 2200 or so.

I was reminded of a trip this summer I took and had my Iphone on the bike charging, when I stopped it was going nuts, I bet it saw the voltage spike. I have not tried to charge the phone on the bike since. either way, I already got the new regulator(yeah even Harley calls it that) so its going on. the gauge goes nuts at will , like on the way home from work today, it was bouncing around, got it here and checked out and no its steady 14.2( I think thats as close as my meter will get)while the gauge goes from 8-14. so I will pull the fairing and check for a bad connection at the gauge, and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
new regulator installed this morning, charging at 14.5 volts. no gauge fluctuation, yet.it did not bounce around yesterday at all. it always seemed to show up after bike has sat all night collecting some dew, wait till morning to see on that after work. still think it has a gauge going bad.
 

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I have a 2012 ultra. Had the bike one week and it would quit charging intermittently.I took it back under warranty and it took them 8 days to get to it. Dealer replaced regulator, worked fine for one week and then I washed it, it quit charging. I do not believe in coincidence. Today I stripped the bike down and did the checks for voltage bleed on the regulator. The test showed that the stator was good and regulator was bad. I just could not figure out why when I washed it I had a problem again.
I bought a regulator and installed it, tested it for bleeding voltage and it failed. I was really dumfounded so I took my flashlight and looked into every nook and cranny I could find. Finally in front of the battery deep inside I found two ground posts. one was fine and the other was five turns loose. Tightened up the ground post and it started charging right away. 8 days to change a regulator is not customer service, I prefer to fix it myself.
 

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Meant to say key off you might get a low voltage maybe 1 volt or less is what i came up with my ultra. charging system working good. as long as you dont have high voltage regulator should be good
 

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You want dc voltage present at the wires on dc side of the volt reg, to see if they are getting through to the ac side.

I am not sure if the key makes a difference. I would turn it on, and err to the cautious side.
 

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new regulator installed this morning, charging at 14.5 volts. no gauge fluctuation, yet.it did not bounce around yesterday at all. it always seemed to show up after bike has sat all night collecting some dew, wait till morning to see on that after work. still think it has a gauge going bad.
My guage bounces around if I have the radio on. The speaker magnet is kind of close to the guage? I'm used to it now and can tell if something is not "right"
 
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