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I'm just a little curious at this point. I would like to upgrade the 96 engine using the 110 SE kit from HD. I currently do all my own maintenance on my 2008 105th Ultra and now I am considering doing an engine upgrade myself. I have already installed a SE stage I breather, PC III and added BUB 7 slip-ons. I'm wondering if this is something that a beginner should tackle.
 

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Many have successfully done so.

As an FYI - you might compare the cost of building a 110 to the cost of buying a 120R. Best bang for the buck and the direction I'd go in, FWIW.
 

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Thanks as far as cost goes I think you are right the 120R is a better deal. I know some people reading this might laugh at my next statement but I am serious, what am I going to do with all that horspower? I would't say I am a slow rider, but certainly not a racer. I do like the idea of using it when I need it and of course showing off once in awhile. I want an engine I can be conservative with so when the girlfriend is on the back she isn't freaking out, but when I want the power have it there for the taking. Is that something the 120 can provide?
 

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Alright. First, I feel it is important for you to take note of all the parts/tools this job will require as well as what labor you will require (either from your or someone doing the work). Things you will require to make a starter 110 is new cylinders (can't bore stock that far), piston kit, cams to allow more air in (if you don't at least cam up you are wasting your time), valve springs depending on the lift of said cams, intake, clutch spring. Things I would suggest you also do to actually start making use of that displacement are a new intake, new throttle body, port and polish your heads, choose a proper compression for your cams while you get the heads done, I would go with a full exhaust system instead of slip-ons (supertrapp 2into1 if you are trying to build good power), I would consider the Screaming Eagle compensator upgrade (the stock ones in 96 primaries have caused some starting issues depending on where you are at, only fix we saw was upgrading to SE. The problem was amplified of course with performance parts), compression releases with your head work. I don't know if I am forgetting anything. I prefer the Super Tuner over the Power commander, but that is preference.

Alright....The work that is required. You have to fully remove your engine. Then you have to fully disassemble the engine all the way to cranks. Find a VERY reputable machine shop that deals with harley work and have them bore you cases to fit the 110 cylinders. Going to a 110 is more than a 103 if you didn't know. The cylinder spigots of the 110 will not fit in the cases without machining. Once you get back the cases, THOROUGHLY clean the cases to verify no material is still in the cases from the machining process and replace all bearings. Then fully reassemble the motorcycle with all the new components. Would I say it is a beginner's task... : /. I don't want to discourage one from having fun working on their bike, but it is a pretty decent size job even for a common mechanic. You will require all specialty tools necessary to remove and disassemble the engine which add to the cost of the build (though now you have to tools for later work...so i see that as investing).

If that doesn't deter you...and in fact sounds like a fun task that you are up to then have at it. I would also consider a 103 kit. A 103 is a proven build you can get very good numbers from and doesn't require machining the cases. You will require many of the same parts, but not as much labor or specialty tools. You can also save a few bucks by having your current cylinders bored to fit your pistons. With the money you save from not having to do the machining, buying extra gaskets, buying all the specialty tools right now....you can better afford other upgrades (head porting, etc.)

120r option. Well...just don't look at the base price of the 120r....because there are other things you pretty much have to get once you get that engine. Like you will require a new exhaust and intake. You will have to get a new clutch. That is a lot of power. It needs a lot of air in and out. It also needs the rest of the powertrain to be beefed up. So...yes the engine is a bit over 5k....but by the time you get it on the road it is going to run you like 7k-8k if you are thrifty. If you go with that serious of an engine, you shouldn't go in half-arsed or it will kick you in the teeth. Again, not a deterrence...just fair warning. I would love to do that myself....but I don't have the wallet to do it right. You would have to go through and price all the parts and cost of the machine work to see the value of the 110 vs the 120r. You could also factor in the possibility of selling your stock 96, but you would need to be reasonable in factoring that unless you already had a buyer.

Personally I would do a 103 some cams and heads for now. Of course I don't know what budget you are working with. Also I don't know your level of knowledge or the real bottom line for how much power you want. Reliability is another major factor. Can you do it? Sure, I have seen it done on the same exact year/model bike...and the guy had a sidecar put on. Its just not going to be a weekend oil change or a set of slip-ons. You forget a bolt on slip ons....they fall off and you lose $400 for a new set. Forget something in the engine or don't torque something properly....say goodbye to a few thousand. Have fun with whatever you do.

Steel
 

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generallly

You will not regret going bigger. Conversely, if you are thinking 110, then just go 113, 117, 120 or other proven sizes. The work is about the same and the engine may be better.
Note: I went 124 and would re-do that in a heartbeat but some are fearful of the longer stroke and wear.

Conclusion: if you are doing it, do it as big as you can within a 'range'. So for example, you may need more intake and other miscellaneous mods to go from 103 to 'only' 110. But if your going to go 110, shoot for the 120.

Just my personal experience. No real downside to it if the work is done well... heat can be controlled and reliability seems pretty good for most all of the bigger builds if you take care of the crank and so on.
 

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I'm no wrench but if it was me I'd consider a 107 from fuelmoto or someone else out there I think You'd be happy with results,do the heads,throttle body and you wouldn't have to split the cases.I think it would be more economical and produce just as good of results and simpler to do yourself.You could have your jugs and throttle body done wouldnt have to pull the motor.
 

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I'm no wrench but if it was me I'd consider a 107 from fuelmoto or someone else out there I think You'd be happy with results,do the heads,throttle body and you wouldn't have to split the cases.I think it would be more economical and produce just as good of results and simpler to do yourself.You could have your jugs and throttle body done wouldnt have to pull the motor.
i agree, do a nice top end and a set of cams. you can get away from a bunch of expense of bigger hp. and still make some very noticeable gains. later if you feel you want more, belly up for the intake and all the other goodies required to go big. the money you spend now will not make a later build crippling, and ifyou do it yourself the 1st time, you'll be more confident the 2nd. as for splitting the cases, these newer engines with rollers on both sides are real easy to split.
 

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Just do a simple 103 , the pistons/rings are every where. 4 more ci gets you less than 4 hp, not worth mail ordering pistons/rings you can probably get in your town today for a 103.
 

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I know some people reading this might laugh at my next statement but I am serious, what am I going to do with all that horspower?
You ask the question so; how do you ride or want to ride?

I used the SE 103 kit with the 255 cams. This fits my riding style to a tee and didn't cost a bunch of money. I wanted to be able to pull out to pass and not worry about accelerating too slow. I'm not trying to see how fast I can get to 100mph.

You might want to read my ride report in my signature line.

Chris
 

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mine came with the 103 (oil cooler from factory) and I had the 255's, V&H PowerDuals, Ventilator AC, SE SuperTuner all installed about a month after I took it home. Before and after are two different animals!
 

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Just do a simple 103 , the pistons/rings are every where. 4 more ci gets you less than 4 hp, not worth mail ordering pistons/rings you can probably get in your town today for a 103.
I done the S&S exchange program. I exchanged my cylinder heads and jugs for CNC ported heads and 103 displacement from a 96''. I also went with the S&S 583 EZ start cams. I am now making around 100 horsepower and 116 footpounds of torque.
 

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You will not regret going bigger. Conversely, if you are thinking 110, then just go 113, 117, 120 or other proven sizes. The work is about the same and the engine may be better.
Note: I went 124 and would re-do that in a heartbeat but some are fearful of the longer stroke and wear.

Conclusion: if you are doing it, do it as big as you can within a 'range'. So for example, you may need more intake and other miscellaneous mods to go from 103 to 'only' 110. But if your going to go 110, shoot for the 120.

Just my personal experience. No real downside to it if the work is done well... heat can be controlled and reliability seems pretty good for most all of the bigger builds if you take care of the crank and so on.
@gree: +1 what Winston said.

Go as big as you can. You will wish you had.
 

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@gree: with winston and fxdrydr, go with the largest cubes you can then go up one more cube and you will never be disappointed.:woohoo:
 
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