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Well the narrow glide has 39mm tubes the wide glide has 41mm tubes from an engineering standpoint the bigger the diameter the less flex. That was one of the reasons I went that route because when I did the change I added 3" over tubes for cornering clearance. I also just added a heavy fork brace. I did have a high speed weave around 90-100mph I couldn't shake so when I get back on the road I'll let you know how that worked out. Apparently lengthening forks agrivates this. I've done just about everything to get it right. Bronze swingarm bushings, new swingarm, stainless pivot shaft, new isolaters with Stiffy steel inserts in them, new wheel bearings ditched the spoke rear wheel for a mag, third stabilizer link behind trans....if the fork brace doesn't fix it I could simply be an aerodynamic issue with fairing and will just power through it hopefully safely...
Well, from an engineering standpoint, and from basic physics, longer tubes flexing more sounds pretty basic to me; all else being equal.

LOL If the fork brace doesn't work, try something radical-- maybe like staying within shouting distance of the speed limit. ;)

joe
 
Well, from an engineering standpoint, and from basic physics, longer tubes flexing more sounds pretty basic to me; all else being equal.

LOL If the fork brace doesn't work, try something radical-- maybe like staying within shouting distance of the speed limit. ;)

joe
Just not my style.... Lol I'm a speed freak. These days now that I'm older I don't go much past 100 by 110 I'm throttling back. Lol in 1993 I was 23. I had a 1980 Z1R1000 kawasaki. Put a 1200cc drag motor on it and got it toped out at 193mph. I got pegged on radar. I got hit for excess of 155 in a 55..reckless endangerment and speed contest all in one shot..good times. That bike ruined me I've never had a bike since that filled that void and power. That bike was actually the inspiration for my current bike. It won't equal it up top for sure but under 100 this one is as close as I've ever gotten. One very intense machine...
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Round is Not a Relay... not the Wagner one... that is a Flasher unit... like the good old days..
.. Gotta have correct Terminology... or No One will know WTF is going on!!!
haha you`re right Race, i need to be more precise... "signal relay" is the direct translation of the common terminology for that piece at my place, it`s sometimes confusing....
As for the starter relay.... have seen Therm called it a Interlock-Relay in a thread...... maybe we agree to stinky little starter clicky thing on that one....

I've used the Taiwan carb kits for many years on customer bikes with no fuss. (I gave away my stock Keihin to a bro with an Ironhead as they were great replacements for worn out Bendix or Tillotson carbs.) I always fitted the Andrews accel pump cover with the check ball (I think someone still makes a repro) which imitates the stock part on older butterfly Keihins and aimed the accel pump squirter to the center of the carb bore (it's a press fit. Whack open throttle while eyeballing the squirt, drop bowl, turn squirter (an adjustable wrench has lots of jaw surface area, I roll the worm gear with my thumb for a snug fit) to aim, reinstall bowl, check results). The low speed jets are lean for emissions. We (I worked at a shop) bought a #60 thru #80 drill bit set (as cheap as one jet) and we drilled the low speed jets as there wasn't a convenient variety available at the time. We'd use the bit shank to measure the jet then go one number size larger to begin which was usually just right for a stock engine. They start easier, run cooler and have better mid-range. Rejetting was considered the "Harley tax" to get back HP Uncle Sugar ordered removed. This is a good time to buy socket head screws for the bowl. I play matchup to stainless and order via Ebay if my local hardware store doesn't have matches. The screw heads are actually JIS, not Phillips which is why many get trashed. I bought two of these kits and they're perfect for carb screws: Bessel (Vessel) Ball Grip Difference and Screwdrivers Set No.220w-3 - - Amazon.com

The correct Bosch style relay (but without the plastic cover tab HD uses, though you can usually swap covers) is very common at auto stores as tens of millions at least have been used in cars and trucks. Bring the stock relay and play matchup. a 30 or 40 amp "heavy duty" or "heater" relay is preferable.

Refer to your factory service manual for any connection questions and make sure your little cluster of ground wires below the right side cover are in good condition and their mounting surface is clean (remove the screw holding them and clean all surfaces, I reinstall using dielectric grease from the auto store to exclude moisture). Colorized schematic was posted by another member (I forget who) attached and is easy to read.
thank you, good writeup casement - till today i was never aware of the JIS screw heads.
I have for sure seen lot`s of abused carb screws but thought it was just wrong size of Phillips bits.
Must be the reason the guy that ultrasound-cleaned that carb swapped out some screws for slotted head screws.
I have a second carb of that kind around and the screws are dead.
Will have to get that tool, might need it for the Mikuni on another bike some day as well.

Sooo - i got another stinky little clicky starter thing ... the Bosch one that you mentioned :



The black one is the Bosch, the other is the one that was installed.
It`s off an RT (seemed to be oem on there) and has one more blade than what i had, the RT has five wires connected to the relay, whereas the SP uses just four.

SP :

RT :


What i noticed - the orange wire on the 1986-FXRT-harness, to pin "30" on the relay is way thicker than what i found on my Sp.
How thick should that one be ? On the pic i put them side to side. Mine is ca. 2,5mm thick and the one on the RT harness is ca. 3,5mm.
Is mine wrong, or did the RT`s have another wire strength on that one ?

Left side shows what i have (connector housing is not present), right side shows the same spot of the wiring but it`s the RT harness that i hold beside.
(the yellow wire is RT specific on the relay, all others are same)
The orange wire, very different. Mine is routed from pin 30 on the relay to the circuit braker, the one from pin 30 on the RT somewhere else.



When i tried to start with the new relay, all i got was the same click.
I looked at the harness of the RT and saw the black plastic connector housing for the relay on the harness.
That got me thinking, as mine doesn`t have that one.
I have only loose blade connectors with the housing removed, so it got me thinking if they were just inserted incorrectly onto the relay, and they indeed were on the wrong pins.
Also that little ground wire was not there, that pin was left alone on the relay.
I could have gotten that idea earlier, but didn`t know how it had to look originally - it was left that way from the p.o., who removed the connector housing for whatever reason.
I sorted the colors to the correct pins according to the wiring diagram and the starter works fine after all.


Now i have another issue.... with the carb i guess.

I filled up the float bowl and cranked her up for a while, but got no engine.
As said it was ultrasound cleaned and allegedly should have the same adjustments that it had prior to clean-up.

I have seen the Manifold was wet from fuel behind the butterfly after i tried starting, but i did not see any fuel squirting when opening the throttle.
Neither when cranking, nor when manually activating the throttle-blade.
After the fuel on the manifold was evaporated i activated the throttle blade per hand and did not see any squirts of fuel.
The float bowl had fuel in it, i looked it up.

This is the carb aside another same SE carb that still has the original flange.
The spigot one on mine is a modification the p.o. did, obviously he wanted to use another manifold or / and be able to remove the carb without loosing the two bolts of the standard manifold.
Or whatever.

When comparing throttle blade operation, i noticed the accelerator pump rod on mine is not pushed as far as on the other one, when initially operating the blade.
It`s pushed maybe around 3mm on the other one, and 1,5mm on mine. If that has anything to say.










 
I have more than one of thos original S.E. /Andrews Flowmaster Carbs... they were originally intended [by H-d] for the Sportsters... but can be made to perform rather well... even on a Shovel... Which is where I mounted my first one..
Tho I have not seen one Modified to a Spigot mount... Interesting!!!
 
Just not my style.... Lol I'm a speed freak. These days now that I'm older I don't go much past 100 by 110 I'm throttling back. Lol in 1993 I was 23. I had a 1980 Z1R1000 kawasaki. Put a 1200cc drag motor on it and got it toped out at 193mph. I got pegged on radar. I got hit for excess of 155 in a 55..reckless endangerment and speed contest all in one shot..good times. That bike ruined me I've never had a bike since that filled that void and power. That bike was actually the inspiration for my current bike. It won't equal it up top for sure but under 100 this one is as close as I've ever gotten. One very intense machine...
I used to modify and drive cars that way, but I was never that brave on 2 wheels.

joe
 
I used to modify and drive cars that way, but I was never that brave on 2 wheels.

joe
Not gonna lie was scary... You hit wobbles and weaving at at 160ish then again on the way down even worse around 145ish. Pushing through or coming back down through that is a pucker moment on a 1980s bike. Today's bikes with built in stabilization controls maybe, but not on the older bikes.. They got just plain scary at certain speeds. Admittedly I'm done trying to get a bike up there again. My FXR theoretically should hit 145ish but I've not taken it there yet.
 
My CV carb recently would not squirt fuel and when I took the fuel bowl off, I could not spray brake cleaner thru the spray nozzle. Luckily, I had a spare bowl that I installed and immediately got my squirt of fuel back. The original spray nozzle was clogged from being in the carb for 29 years. Cleaned up the inside of the accelerator pump while I was in there but the nozzle was really the problem.

The CV has a check valve under where the nozzle fits into the fuel bowl and I was never able to get the old float bowl to pass fuel thru the spray nozzle, even after taking out the press fit brass nozzle and trying to clean underneath it. The check valve is just a small needle valve like a miniature float needle valve. Since I had a spare float bowl, I gave up trying to work on the old one.
 
You can heat the end of any brass squirter with a torch or cigarette lighter to break up varnish. Sometimes it will extrude like a little turd. I keep a section of scrap throttle cable to use one strand as a poker for small orifices. This also works on small emulsion tubes and jets on various carbs because varnish melts far below temps which disturb metal. If the part is loose I hold it in forceps (because they lock) or needlenose pliers with a rubber band holding them closed, and work over a box or tray.
 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
I removed the float bowl and worked back and forth through the brass squirter with a straightened paper-clip.
When i pushed the paper-clip through for the first time some (soft) dirt came with it.
No idea why there is dirt as the carb was ultra-sounded, but maybe it just came from the gas tank now.
(flushed the tank and cleaned the filter)

I pulled the fuel line off the carb to see if fuel is supplied to the carb inlet, and it is.
Put the float bowl back (filled up with some fuel before install) to the carb, but still got no squirt.

I then used the float bowl from the spare carb, which diaphragm and spring looks all fine and clean.
But still getting no squirt (although the paper-clip went through the brass squirter easily) .

I can`t try the spare carb as that one has the og flange for the other manifold style ( have a manifold somewhere buried in a
parts box and no seals ).
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I certainly would Not let the lack of a Squirter hold me back from Tuning... I have more than one with the Squirter disabled... Just gotta Ride it..
Maybe i`m approaching it from a wrong thought....or my description lacks...but i don`t have fuel supply to the throat...fuel is in the
float bowl, and the paper-clip is going through, just no fuel....
 
Maybe i`m approaching it from a wrong thought....or my description lacks...but i don`t have fuel supply to the throat...fuel is in the
float bowl, and the paper-clip is going through, just no fuel....
Ok got it... but there is an air passage involved too... called an Air Bleed...makes the jets work...especially the main
Smaller than a paper clip tho... I hope!!
I will take a Minute and have a look see what yer workin with..
 
Ok got it... but there is an air passage involved too... called an Air Bleed...makes the jets work...especially the main
Smaller than a paper clip tho... I hope!!
I will take a Minute and have a look see what yer workin with..
Unless what yer still saying is you have no Squirt of fuel... which never troubled me... drawing fuel thru the jets by the Engine Vacuume is all that is necessary..
Terminology is Very Important here... That original Andrews Flowmaster/SE butterfly carb can be made to work very well indeed!!
 
That was a thought i had......
On a Mikuni i can see it squirt with engine off, just moving the throttle, but i was wondering if it is different on that one.
So the issue might be something else instead of the carb...
It should squirt as long as there's fuel in the bowl.

If you're really worried about it, see if you can blow compressed air from the bowl through it.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 
But, but, but, The damn thing will work just fine without a damn Squirter... how ya think an S&S Super B works???
Get tuning... You Must tune without the accelerator Pump anyway... to do it Right... I'll figure out the Squirter... but as I recall the guts are just like a Ka-Sneeze... same part numbers even..
 
But, but, but, The damn thing will work just fine without a damn Squirter... how ya think an S&S Super B works???
I agree. But if it's there, it needs to function. :)

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I had checked that (cleaned it somewhat and blew through it) - air is passing through, as well as the paper-clip. Bowl filled up.
The guy who ultrasounded the carb said all adjustments should be like he received it.
But of course i don`t know if it that last adjustment was ok, i never saw that engine running, it was already sleeping a while when i bought her.
I find it easier to start adjusting a carb off a running engine, for improvements....but like that, where to begin with ...🤔
 
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