Round is Not a Relay... not the Wagner one... that is a Flasher unit... like the good old days..
.. Gotta have correct Terminology... or No One will know WTF is going on!!!
haha you`re right Race, i need to be more precise... "signal relay" is the direct translation of the common terminology for that piece at my place, it`s sometimes confusing....
As for the starter relay.... have seen Therm called it a Interlock-Relay in a thread...... maybe we agree to stinky little starter clicky thing on that one....
I've used the Taiwan carb kits for many years on customer bikes with no fuss. (I gave away my stock Keihin to a bro with an Ironhead as they were great replacements for worn out Bendix or Tillotson carbs.) I always fitted the Andrews accel pump cover with the check ball (I think someone still makes a repro) which imitates the stock part on older butterfly Keihins and aimed the accel pump squirter to the center of the carb bore (it's a press fit. Whack open throttle while eyeballing the squirt, drop bowl, turn squirter (an adjustable wrench has lots of jaw surface area, I roll the worm gear with my thumb for a snug fit) to aim, reinstall bowl, check results). The low speed jets are lean for emissions. We (I worked at a shop) bought a #60 thru #80 drill bit set (as cheap as one jet) and we drilled the low speed jets as there wasn't a convenient variety available at the time. We'd use the bit shank to measure the jet then go one number size larger to begin which was usually just right for a stock engine. They start easier, run cooler and have better mid-range. Rejetting was considered the "Harley tax" to get back HP Uncle Sugar ordered removed. This is a good time to buy socket head screws for the bowl. I play matchup to stainless and order via Ebay if my local hardware store doesn't have matches. The screw heads are actually JIS, not Phillips which is why many get trashed. I bought two of these kits and they're perfect for carb screws:
Bessel (Vessel) Ball Grip Difference and Screwdrivers Set No.220w-3 - - Amazon.com
The correct Bosch style relay (but without the plastic cover tab HD uses, though you can usually swap covers) is very common at auto stores as tens of millions at least have been used in cars and trucks. Bring the stock relay and play matchup. a 30 or 40 amp "heavy duty" or "heater" relay is preferable.
Refer to
your factory service manual for any connection questions and make sure your little cluster of ground wires below the right side cover are in good condition and their mounting surface is clean (remove the screw holding them and clean all surfaces, I reinstall using dielectric grease from the auto store to exclude moisture). Colorized schematic was posted by another member (I forget who) attached and is easy to read.
thank you, good writeup casement - till today i was never aware of the JIS screw heads.
I have for sure seen lot`s of abused carb screws but thought it was just wrong size of Phillips bits.
Must be the reason the guy that ultrasound-cleaned that carb swapped out some screws for slotted head screws.
I have a second carb of that kind around and the screws are dead.
Will have to get that tool, might need it for the Mikuni on another bike some day as well.
Sooo - i got another stinky little clicky starter thing ... the Bosch one that you mentioned :
The black one is the Bosch, the other is the one that was installed.
It`s off an RT (seemed to be oem on there) and has one more blade than what i had, the RT has five wires connected to the relay, whereas the SP uses just four.
SP :
RT :
What i noticed - the orange wire on the 1986-FXRT-harness, to pin "30" on the relay is way thicker than what i found on my Sp.
How thick should that one be ? On the pic i put them side to side. Mine is ca. 2,5mm thick and the one on the RT harness is ca. 3,5mm.
Is mine wrong, or did the RT`s have another wire strength on that one ?
Left side shows what i have (connector housing is not present), right side shows the same spot of the wiring but it`s the RT harness that i hold beside.
(the yellow wire is RT specific on the relay, all others are same)
The orange wire, very different. Mine is routed from pin 30 on the relay to the circuit braker, the one from pin 30 on the RT somewhere else.
When i tried to start with the new relay, all i got was the same click.
I looked at the harness of the RT and saw the black plastic connector housing for the relay on the harness.
That got me thinking, as mine doesn`t have that one.
I have only loose blade connectors with the housing removed, so it got me thinking if they were just inserted incorrectly onto the relay, and they indeed were on the wrong pins.
Also that little ground wire was not there, that pin was left alone on the relay.
I could have gotten that idea earlier, but didn`t know how it had to look originally - it was left that way from the p.o., who removed the connector housing for whatever reason.
I sorted the colors to the correct pins according to the wiring diagram and the starter works fine after all.
Now i have another issue.... with the carb i guess.
I filled up the float bowl and cranked her up for a while, but got no engine.
As said it was ultrasound cleaned and allegedly should have the same adjustments that it had prior to clean-up.
I have seen the Manifold was wet from fuel behind the butterfly after i tried starting, but i did not see any fuel squirting when opening the throttle.
Neither when cranking, nor when manually activating the throttle-blade.
After the fuel on the manifold was evaporated i activated the throttle blade per hand and did not see any squirts of fuel.
The float bowl had fuel in it, i looked it up.
This is the carb aside another same SE carb that still has the original flange.
The spigot one on mine is a modification the p.o. did, obviously he wanted to use another manifold or / and be able to remove the carb without loosing the two bolts of the standard manifold.
Or whatever.
When comparing throttle blade operation, i noticed the accelerator pump rod on mine is not pushed as far as on the other one, when initially operating the blade.
It`s pushed maybe around 3mm on the other one, and 1,5mm on mine. If that has anything to say.