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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
16 street bob

what does "half turn" do ? half turn vs full turn ... does this add more free play respectively?

followed normal procedure and used a Barnett tutorial video for installing extra friction clutch pack / clutch adjustment
  • backed off lock nut
  • run down push rod till very slight resistance
  • back out push rod half turn
  • torque lock nut
  • remove the free play in lever / cable

bike is running fine . im on a level surface with the clutch all the way in and the bike doesn't pull

when I release the clutch it sort of lurches forward a little ..cant tell if this is bc of my adjustment settings or the new "extra friction" plates
 

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2013 Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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I set mine 3/4 out, the 1/2' is less free play, 1 turn is more free play, most are set at 1/2 turn out.
Here is a video that may give you a Visual, this only one video of many other video's
The video shows the guy using a straight 11/16 box end wrench for the locking nut, I used a offset 11/16 box end wrench for years.
The last time I adjusted it I bought a cheap 11/16 half inch drive Socket and Grinded four straight grinds so I could use a Wrench to tighten nut and insert the Allen wrench in the middle of socket to hold adjuster.
While using the allen to adjust the clutch I found that slight drag , by using the weight of the allen from straight up and let it fall till it stops from drag. then back off your 1/2-1 turn loose.
Others will say they do it different and the 11/16 socket is a waste of time but I enjoy making tools at home I'm retired and plenty of time. That's how I do it.
Sorry for the long story, hope it helps
 

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You'll find the Barnett clutch is "grabby". It is basically a racing clutch. If it's grabbing too close to the grip for you you'll need to tighten up the distance on your adjustment. If you're 1/2 turn out and it's grabbing close to the grip try 3/8 turn out out. The closer you set the pushrod the further out your lever engages. I have a Energy One clutch which is very similar to a Barnett and I set mine 1/4 turn out. I like my clutch to engage further away from the grip. On a grabby system it's better for me. Some require experimenting for personal preference. All bikes are a little different. Just make sure you have a little free play in your final cable adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
right on guys.. that's kind of what I thought but thanks this confirms it. ill play around with it till it feels right. 🤟
 

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The last time I adjusted it I bought a cheap 11/16 half inch drive Socket and Grinded four straight grinds so I could use a Wrench to tighten nut and insert the Allen wrench in the middle of socket to hold adjuster.

Yeah, bought some sh*tty HF tools for the job

SAE t handle set and "go thru" Pittsburg wrench .

the wrench ain't too bad . was only 20 bucks for a set and is polished metal

the issues I was havin,
was the primary cover was sticking out too much and wouldn't let the socket fully seat on the nut.
and the nut was also muscled on there when I first started too

you dont get much leverage with a t-handle either
 

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Yeah, bought some sh*tty HF tools for the job

SAE t handle set and "go thru" Pittsburg wrench .

the wrench ain't too bad . was only 20 bucks for a set and is polished metal

the issues I was havin,
was the primary cover was sticking out too much and wouldn't let the socket fully seat on the nut.
and the nut was also muscled on there when I first started too

you dont get much leverage with a t-handle either
Don't blame the primary cover for sticking out too much, it can't help it! LOL! I went to a Habitat for Humanity and dug thru the used tools section until I found an offset wrench. It works perfectly. I also found a socket that had a hex on the back and another wrench that fit that. I then tac welded the wrench to it. Both work great. You don't need leverage for a tee handle either. Once the nut is loosened it should spin freely. I should point out when I make an adjustment I back the adjuster out several turns just to clean the threads and make sure it does turn easily. I actually go in a half turn past contact and back out again to make sure it's making a clean contact. The lock nut doesn't need to be cranked down either. I believe the torque spec is only something like 8lbs. I just make contact and then give it a light smack with my hand.
 

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Its really easy on a big twin if you break it down.

1) The cable adjuster adjusts the cable
2) The set screw adjust the push rod
3) The ball ramp and release bearing sit between them. The ball ramp needs to be seated to get a good adjustment. And this is where the Harley way of doing it sucks. They have you back the cable off so far that you cant feel the ball ramps.

So just back the cable off a turn or so.

Then jiggle the lever as you turn in on the set screw. If you run out of lever free play, back it off another turn and repeat. You can actually feel the balls seat as you turn the screw in while jiggling the lever. When the set screw seats, you will have zero lash on the push rod and the balls will be seated at the base of the ramp.

Then back the set screw off 1/2 a turn on used plates, or 3/4 to a full turn on new plates, and lock it down.

After that set the cable adjuster till the slack is gone, then back it off until there is about 1/16th slack at the lever.

Now measure how much lift you get at the pressure plate. About 50-60 thousandths is what you are looking for. And it should be seated at .000 before the lever is fully released.

And to be sure, new disks will want another adjustment in a 100 miles or so.

===============================================

Now about those little spring disks, seats, and big thick Belleville springs.

That little concaved spring at the bottom of the clutch pack is what gives you a friction zone. And the little flat ring it sits on determines where the friction zone is in relation to lever pull. So when you take them out to install an extra plate kit, you just removed the friction zone and the ability to adjust were the clutch engages. That's automatic transmissions 101. And if you weren't aware of it, the Harley clutch is just an adaption of a clutch out of a GM auto trans.

And when you add that big SE Belleville spring, you actually give up some of your pressure plate lift. The big spring causes the right cover and clutch basket to both flex when you pull the lever. And on some set ups, the thickness of the spring comes into play. This limits how much pressure plate lift you get. And some times brand new extra plate kits with big springs drag badly when adjusted by the book. Basically to the point of breaking stuff. In general, they need the set screw backed out less than with oem plates. But you have to make sure that there is still some free play on that adjustment. One of the old school tricks was to break the disks in with a light spring, then swap it out for the heavy spring after the plates had heat cycled (burnished) a few times.

Now with all of that said, big springs are to be avoided on street scooters. If you add more clutch surface, you can run a lighter spring. That was one of the things that made the old RP Pro Clutch so popular. It would hold a lot of power, with a fairly light spring, because the plates were massive. But big fuking springs on top of extra plate kits are a lot less money than swapping out the hub for one that will take bigger plates, so that what you see in scooters out on the street.
 

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thanks for the info makes a lot of sense.

any idea on why my clutch spring was mar-ed with a perfect circle around ? I forgot add the reason why I replaced my clutch pack in the first place was because I burnt the clutch pads while getting a little carried away "having fun" ;) ..

I can post a picture next week when I swap it. Im swapping because I figured it can't be good. Just going to put a stock spring in there.

pretty much looked like this one Genuine OEM Harley Davidson Big Twin Clutch Diaphragm Spring | eBay
 

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I think that mark is normal. The spring clamp ring did that. It's just from the flexing everytime the clutch is pulled.
 

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thanks for the info makes a lot of sense.

any idea on why my clutch spring was mar-ed with a perfect circle around ? I forgot add the reason why I replaced my clutch pack in the first place was because I burnt the clutch pads while getting a little carried away "having fun" ;) ..

I can post a picture next week when I swap it. Im swapping because I figured it can't be good. Just going to put a stock spring in there.

pretty much looked like this one Genuine OEM Harley Davidson Big Twin Clutch Diaphragm Spring | eBay
That ring on the back is from the spring wearing against the spring seat. The spring slides each finger a few thousands of an inch as the spring is compressed against the seat.
 

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Seely

any idea on why my clutch spring was mar-ed with a perfect circle around ? I forgot add the reason why I replaced my clutch pack in the first place was because I burnt the clutch pads while getting a little carried away "having fun" ;) ..

I can post a picture next week when I swap it. Im swapping because I figured it can't be good. Just going to put a stock spring in there.

pretty much looked like this one Genuine OEM Harley Davidson Big Twin Clutch Diaphragm Spring | eBay
[/QUOTE]
Seely here is a New one step up from stock , Cheap to 7 bucks plus 5 bucks Shipping = 12 bucks for a new one.
I just bought it for my 2013 Ultra
Harley Diaphragm Clutch Spring 37871-98A, 37882-06 98-up Twin Cam Heavy Duty | eBay
Heavy duty diaphragm spring (0.077”), 15% stronger v.s. OEM standard spring (0.068”).
That is higher performance plate and deliver more torque, also needs more gripping force to release clutch.
Rep. 37871-98A, 37871-04, 37882-06 for Big Twins 1998-up
 
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