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reply on S&S 510 gear drive vs Andrews 21 or 26 gear drive, on stock bagger(2000 FLHT) with slip on mufflers and thunder jet kit in carb. Wanted for mountain riding two up. Above 6000 ft.
 

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mattman said:
reply on S&S 510 gear drive vs Andrews 21 or 26 gear drive, on stock bagger(2000 FLHT) with slip on mufflers and thunder jet kit in carb. Wanted for mountain riding two up. Above 6000 ft.
Definately NOT the S&S 510's! They are reputably soft on the low end....especially with a 88".

If you know you're never going to a 95" kit, stick with the Andrews TW-21...but the TW-26 will also work well and really shine if you go up to a 95" someday.
 

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EASY DOES IT
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I have the S&S 510 and must admit they are intended for higher rpm ranges...as you might see more on the open road...there is some gain down low though admittedly small. They work well 2 up also, again in the higher rpm ranges...a TW21-26 would be better suited for 80 percent of Harley riders not intending to upgrade to a BB or other build...under those circumstances it may be cheaper to save your money for the whole shootin' match...MHO
 

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I am running a 96" build with S&S 510c's, recommended by the builder. I like em. Seems to have enough power for me and the bike's top end is in excess of 115 mph, that is where I quit. Still was going and had more throttle. Did this on the four lane between Hornell NY and Canisteo NY. The power band is very smooth too. Hey I figue it this way the EG is not a drag bike but I wanted something that would have a little more balls when passing especially with my ol'lady on the back. It does and I don't regret the choice at all. I am going to have it dyno'd this spring just to see what the numbers are. The bike is extremely smooth to boot. Extremely reliable. Just what I wanted. keepem sharp
 

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IronButt
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If you NEVER plan to up the cubic inch then use the 21 YEA ok really use the 26 as they always have a tendancy to grow in size!!!!:yikes: and if you go to 95 why not 98 ...??? who wouldnt want a extra 3 inches??? The 26 cam is a very user friendly cam and you will see gains with it through out the normal power band. The 510 is a nice cam but not onmy list for a 88 incher,... hope I was of some help, and we are all really nice guys that is execpt SWim :roflback: he is a mean ole guy!!!


Morning guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :coffee:
 

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HDWRENCH said:
SWim :roflback: he is a mean ole guy!!!


Morning guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :coffee:
Mean...I resemble that comment... :boxin: :nunu: :gun: ...just watch out on the road...I'm gonna start my (TW37g, 98" from GMR) build today...=devil=.Gee Steve seemed really friendly BEFORE I sent him any money!!!:265: :harhar: :roflback: :hystria:
 

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I used to have a chart that compared a bunch of cams as for lift, duration, intake and exhaust. The mild cams were all pretty much the same as for lift and duration intake and exhaust. It is when you got into heavier springs, bigger valves etc that I noticed at least on this chart that the cams tended to separate themselves from each depending on what one was looking for in the performance of the bike. I lost it when my comp. crashed. It was nice to compare I'll tell ya that. keepem sharp
 

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IronButt
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With cams and valve train weight they have to be matched, but with on going testing, there are some options for some free hp and a happy valve train. Things inmotion tend to stay in motion so if you run a big valve it gets heavy to control it you need more psi, too little and you get valve float , too much and you are loosing hp . 80% of negitive hp is in the valve train. A stock t/c will have about 30-33 -hp of that about 4-5 is drive train, the rest in the engine so lets say 28 is left 80% is valve train. If you run a beehive spring with ti retainers and a valve that is lighter you can reduce your seat psi for the same cam. Run hollw stem valves and you can back it down further.

I run beehives hollow valves , and run only 180 on the seat with my set up. If I where to use a solid stem valve and a steel retainer I would need 200-205 to keep my valve train in check at 6800. My valve train noise is almost stock sounding. This is fine when you are doing a whole build, but when you buy a ready to go head that tells you "good to 650 lift" that is fine but if you are not using a cam that is that large or aggressive you are giving up hp and beating the valve trainharder than needed. Hence the need to set the spring pack for "your cam" This can be tough is you have big heavy valves though in a package head. WE set up every set for the cam the customer is running to get max life from valve train, minimum noise.
 

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What HD said! I wanted something that was reliable, gave a better cruising range and still had some get up and go that didn't sacrifice reliability and longevity. In a nutshell your valves and springs need to be matched to your cam choice along with engine compression etc. I do belive. Maybe the cam choice is more important in that regard as to lift etc. Best advice is to listen to what HD says or Springer. Both extremely knowledgeable. The S&S won't really come on till about 2800 rpms'. Doesn't bother me a bit. I think the more c.i's. and the heads with the pipes makes a difference on the lower end so you kind of offset your losses at the range with the cam. keepem sharp
 
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