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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I developed a loud lifter type noise that doesn't go away when warmed up. very loud on acceleration, reduces tick/tap as throttle backs off. Quiet on deceleration. Motor had 80,000 when noise started - now has 89,000 without getting worse or better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I never thought of that. I've never heard an exhaust leak sound like a lifter, but you've got a point. It does change with engine load, like an exhaust leak would. When I listen to it, it doesn't sound specific to any part of the motor either. Do you have any suggestions on where I should look first? No pipes have been disturbed (except slip-ons a while back). The dealer said that they replaced a broken crossover clamp, but that didn't fix anything that I could hear.
 

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Check where the header pipe goes into head. That’s about the only place where pressure would be high enough to make that kind of noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check where the header pipe goes into head. That’s about the only place where pressure would be high enough to make that kind of noise.
Other than putting my ear to the flange, shouldn't I be able to feel the exhaust puffing? I remember, years ago, when we used a bit of ATF in the carb to watch for smoke escaping from hard to detect leaks. In today's catalytic equipped engines, I doubt that this would be a wise troubleshooting technique though.
 

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Is this a CVO? And if so when were the lifters changed and what is the motor maintenance history, specifically major changes and maintenance.
 

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what oil are u using..try dino and see if noise changes or goes away that will steer you away or direct you to eliminate what things are obtuse....ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is this a CVO? And if so when were the lifters changed and what is the motor maintenance history, specifically major changes and maintenance.
It took quite a bit of invoice searching but yes - I had a loud cold tick that went mostly away hot. Lifters were replaced then @ 60083miles
All my maintenance has been performed by the selling dealer, except when I was traveling following the service guidelines and dealer accelerated service schedules of 5000miles or less.
Other items of note: OE battery '17, '18. '19, Frt brake pads '19, Frt rotors(warped) '17, '19, '21, Frt whl brgs '18, '21, RR brgs '20, strng head brgs '18, Temp sensor '17, twist grip sensor '17, brk sys flush '20, exh clamps '17, '20, '21, RR TPS '21
Bought new in 6/2/16 - have 88980 miles as of today
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
what oil are u using..try dino and see if noise changes or goes away that will steer you away or direct you to eliminate what things are obtuse....ha!
all oil changes were performed at the selling dealer or OOS dealers. Invoices show SYN3 oil. No, I have never dyno'ed my motor. Never felt the need because it is box stock (except for slip-ons)
The ticking/tapping sound began to annoy me at about 100 miles after my 'pre-trip service' at the dealer, where they did a 5000 mile type service (see manual) on 9/21 @ 85036 miles
 

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all oil changes were performed at the selling dealer or OOS dealers. Invoices show SYN3 oil. No, I have never dyno'ed my motor. Never felt the need because it is box stock (except for slip-ons)
The ticking/tapping sound began to annoy me at about 100 miles after my 'pre-trip service' at the dealer, where they did a 5000 mile type service (see manual) on 9/21 @ 85036 miles
I think he meant to try "dino" oil, as in not synthetic.
 

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Look around the ex flanges for signs of exhaust leakage. I realize a little hard with black powder coat but I suspect you may have a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think he meant to try "dino" oil, as in not synthetic.
changing oil formulations after 89000 miles has never been recommended, per oil manufacturers (mobil, castrol, Pennsoil, Quaker, Amalie, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Look around the ex flanges for signs of exhaust leakage. I realize a little hard with black powder coat but I suspect you may have a leak.
I will check the flanges (not black powder coated) to see if I can see any exhaust flashing. Thanks - good idea.
But the sound (other than load specific) is a dead ringer for 1 naughty lifter. I saw a posting elsewhere in this forum where the mechanic discovered the roller cross-shaft had worn, allowing the the roller to rise up. I'd never seen that in my years on cars, but that would have made a definite lifter tick. .....I wonder....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, of course not. They want you to buy and stay with the expensive stuff.
It's not so much as I love to spend my hard earned cash, but my research has repeatedly shown that the switch from fossil based oils to or from full synthetic oils after many miles of one type of oil use, to be contraindicated. It's not the same as switching brands, ie; Mobil 1 > Amalie Syn, or Royal Purple, etc.. Those formulations begin basically the same before proprietary blendings
I am curious as to why changing weights wasn't suggested. Or adding oil additives.
 

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I am curious as to why changing weights wasn't suggested. Or adding oil additives.
OK, I'm suggesting you change oil weight, or use some oil additive.

You know these things make noise. Usually when something comes up, it is related to whatever work was most recently done. Nothing personal. It could have been the owner turning his own wrenches or whatever shop did it.

You already had this happen before. There aren't any guarantees that the 60K you got with the first set of lifters is the norm. Or the 30K on the present set. Its just a mechanical thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, I'm suggesting you change oil weight, or use some oil additive.

You know these things make noise. Usually when something comes up, it is related to whatever work was most recently done. Nothing personal. It could have been the owner turning his own wrenches or whatever shop did it.

You already had this happen before. There aren't any guarantees that the 60K you got with the first set of lifters is the norm. Or the 30K on the present set. Its just a mechanical thing.
Good points. I was unhappy with the thrashing valve train on this motor since day one. I even complained about it within the 1st month, saying that if it were a car or any liquid cooled motor, this would be totally unacceptable. (and this isn't my first rodeo with air cooled motors) But this noise came on shortly after the dealer did a 5000 mile interval service (glorified oil change). The loudness and distinctness of the 'tick/tap' is new which is why I'm tossing it by all y'all for suggestions. The fact that the deadnuts 'LIfter' sound goes away when I roll off the throttle has me baffled. I looked at my exhaust flanges, but can't see any flashing. I tried to feel any blow-by but other than getting burned when I touched.... I'm still scratching my head.
 

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changing oil formulations after 89000 miles has never been recommended, per oil manufacturers (mobil, castrol, Pennsoil, Quaker, Amalie, etc).
I wasn't suggesting anything, I was just clarifying (I thought) that gb wasn't saying you should put your bike on a dyno.
 

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I developed a loud lifter type noise that doesn't go away when warmed up. very loud on acceleration, reduces tick/tap as throttle backs off. Quiet on deceleration. Motor had 80,000 when noise started - now has 89,000 without getting worse or better.
all oil changes were performed at the selling dealer or OOS dealers. Invoices show SYN3 oil. No, I have never dyno'ed my motor. Never felt the need because it is box stock (except for slip-ons)
The ticking/tapping sound began to annoy me at about 100 miles after my 'pre-trip service' at the dealer, where they did a 5000 mile type service (see manual) on 9/21 @ 85036 miles
I'm confused. First you said the noise started at 80,000 miles and the bike now has 89,000 miles. Then you said the noise started right after a service done at 85,036 miles just a few days ago. Did you ride 4,000 miles in the last few days? Have you really been listening to this noise for 9,000 miles?
 

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If it was my bike, I would change to a non-synthetic (dino) oil and see what it sounds like. If the sound is greatly diminished, great. If not, then the engine probably has a exhaust leak, head gasket blown or a bad lifter or rocker arm problems and or other component issue(s).
 
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