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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen numerous posts as far as tuning goes for injected bikes and it does seem to do very well with good results. I have never really seen anything extensive posted for a carbed bike. Has anyone seen any dramatic or worthwhile results with this? I have the SERT ignition tuner for carbureted twin cams (not installed yet) and wondered if anyone has used this. I know the DTT also has a good unit. 95 BB, rejetted CV40, R and D Proformance Heads, SE Flat Tops, TC1 and 2into 1 Pro Pipe. Thanks for any input.
 

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nightrider.com go to tech look for carb tuning there is some stuff just using 1200 sporty needles drilling the vaccume port search it on vtf or j/p it has been talked about ride hard cb
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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You will see many different opinions on carb tuning. www.hdforums.com has a super page on carb setups. Many people believe that NOT drilling the slide vacuum hole is better. If the slide pops up too fast, you're robbing low end torque. If you have a heavy bike like a bagger, leave the slide and spring alone. Try a sportster needle, (do a search here for the part number, I think it' s from a 1989 sporty if memory serves me) and then you can fuss with the mid and main jets. Example: I have a 98", ported heads, V&H 2:1. SE Pro Adjustable Ignition, on a 2003 EGC. My carb now is stock slide, sporty needle, 200 main and 45 mid jet. I can throw more fuel at it once it warms up, if I make it any richer in the cold weather here in NJ, it sneezes. I am also stepping up to a 44CV carb since the 98" can handle that better than a 95" can. Good luck! oh, BTW... you'll need a GOOD dyno man to fine tune it.
 

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IronButt
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There is much to be said and yes I second the HD forum section for carbs, When I tune one I start with new spring and no drilling of the slide for baggers I use a Titanium needle and balance the transfer ports mod the slide, and throat area, and a few other little things to get a cv to work well.
 

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Beware of nightrider.com, they'll have you using a 165 main jet with the Sporty needle. The Sporty needle is 27094-88, I'm using one and it works good.
 

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Geezer-Glide said:
. Many people believe that NOT drilling the slide vacuum hole is better. If the slide pops up too fast, you're robbing low end torque. If you have a heavy bike like a bagger, leave the slide and spring alone. .
This is what I was told by mechanic. Not to do it bagger. I got dixon jet kit. Which is jsut a differant emmultion tube and needle. Unshimmed.
 

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I am using a Bob Wood kt-1 needle with 48 slo and 190 main. My afr looks like efi. I posted a dyno graph in the dyno drags section 95 inch tw21 cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the information and I will spend more time on the HD forum. I have set up a dyno with Neil at Tillys in NC. I am in VA but we do not really have anyone close who is up to tuning even though they have a dyno. I have a 200 main and 48 low. My AFR looks pretty good but it could be better. How about the ignitions? Anyone had any good results with them. Even our local HD shop does not recommend the plug ins that retard the timing but I have not heard from anyone that has used the DTT or SE adjustable like I have. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just to let you know you were right. The HD Forum you directed me to is great so far. I have seen more on the CV in 20 minutes than I have been able to find in a month. Thank you. There is a wealth of other information on there as well.
 

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Hellbound Train
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I'll stick this thread for now and we'll see about a forum for carb tuning. I agree that it would be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HDWrench,

I have a Yost Kit with the blue needle, I did drill the slide but 7/16 and not 1/8, 200 main and 48 low. If you could do better for me on the carb I would gladly take it off and send it to you. I can do the plug in upgrades but if it needs a more technical touch it would be better left to someone that knows what they are doing. My partner took his off and sent it to Bob Woods. It does run better but his build is way above mine and he spent hundreds on the carb alone. I don't think I need to go that route and I am not running Woods cams. I have a true 10/1 with my heads and if I ever change cams it will more than likely be a 37. Let me know or if you need to e-mail me I will send you my address. Thanks. By the way if you need it I have the last dyno that shows the AFR. It had a 195 in it at the time and there was a linear increase from 3.5K to 5.5K going from 13.5 to about 14.5. That is why I installed a 200 main but have not dynoed it since. I really thought this build would have been close to 90 HP on top. It runs very good but it just fell short a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Just thought I would give this one more shot. The ignition I have is a SE for carbs part#32124-04A. I realize it is only for timing and rev limiter but really don't know if it is worth the trouble or not to install it. If no one has any information on this ignition how about the DTT for carbureted bikes? Thanks for any response.
 

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Grumpster said:
HDWrench,

I have a Yost Kit with the blue needle, I did drill the slide but 7/16 and not 1/8, 200 main and 48 low. If you could do better for me on the carb I would gladly take it off and send it to you. I can do the plug in upgrades but if it needs a more technical touch it would be better left to someone that knows what they are doing. My partner took his off and sent it to Bob Woods. It does run better but his build is way above mine and he spent hundreds on the carb alone. I don't think I need to go that route and I am not running Woods cams. I have a true 10/1 with my heads and if I ever change cams it will more than likely be a 37. Let me know or if you need to e-mail me I will send you my address. Thanks. By the way if you need it I have the last dyno that shows the AFR. It had a 195 in it at the time and there was a linear increase from 3.5K to 5.5K going from 13.5 to about 14.5. That is why I installed a 200 main but have not dynoed it since. I really thought this build would have been close to 90 HP on top. It runs very good but it just fell short a little.
Wow 7/16" thats almost 1/2" BIG HOLE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oops

I should have edited this and I can't believe you are the first to say anything about it. In fact I didn't notice it for a week. I drilled it one size smaller 7/64. 7/16 would have warranted a trip to the eye doctor. Now that I have your attention again, how about some results for installing one of the ignitions. I have the one mentioned
32124-04A but even if someone had good results with something else I would like to hear about it. DTT or anything else.
 

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Hey Geezer how long you been running the 98" Revolution cylinders(miles)? Is most of your riding 2 up touring, pull a trailer w/bike? I saw the kit and am in the middle of a tear down........
 

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Adj ign.

Don't know about T/C boxs.
But i use the S/E adj ign box on my modified 95 Evo. Tried all 4 curves
on the dyno and the street. picked the one that worked best for me.
 

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Grumpster said:
I should have edited this and I can't believe you are the first to say anything about it. In fact I didn't notice it for a week. I drilled it one size smaller 7/64. 7/16 would have warranted a trip to the eye doctor. Now that I have your attention again, how about some results for installing one of the ignitions. I have the one mentioned
32124-04A but even if someone had good results with something else I would like to hear about it. DTT or anything else.
Any good news to report on the tuner?? I have purchased the same one on Doc's recommendation have not installed it yet, waiting on the rest of the parts to come in. I did down load the program on my home PC seem pretty complicated for my DA, I hope I can find someone locally who knows how to use it :yikes:...
 

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Grumpster said:
Just thought I would give this one more shot. The ignition I have is a SE for carbs part#32124-04A. I realize it is only for timing and rev limiter but really don't know if it is worth the trouble or not to install it. If no one has any information on this ignition how about the DTT for carbureted bikes? Thanks for any response.
Grumpster,

I'm running a DTT with my carbed '03. I'm slowly learning how to use it, tweak it, etc. HD Forum has been helpful. I bought the cable from DTT to mess with the tables, as I have a little work to do down low. I also will be experimenting with offsetting the rear cylinder to see if that nets me anything.

PM me if you want. Glad to compare notes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Chuck I hope the build worls out for you. If I can not get any good results with the TC1 I have decided based on the compression I have now to go with the TW37. You will more than likely get yours up before I do so any input or information you get will be appreciated. I thought because of the TC1 I chose and having my heads ported by a shop that works directly with the manufacturer it was a good idea and it yet still may be. If not then I will go another direction. I am not looking for a monster just a very good running engine.

FX if you have any luck with yours it would be good to share. No one here really had run the ignition or said they did that I have. I would like to experiment as well but don't want to make numerous trips to the dyno and my seat of the pants dyno does not work as well as it should.

Chuck one more thing. I have about 200 more miles to go on my new pistons and rings before I get the engine tuned. Because of the performance upgrades and my running a stock ignition it leaned out my engine to the point that I melted a hole in my rear piston. That is another story. But I will be there when it gets tuned so whatever information I can share I will.

See you later
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just thought I would give an update. I went to Tillys in Statesville, NC and had my bike tuned. Neil did the dyno for me. I told him what I had in it and then he did a couple of runs for a base line. If you read my previous posts you will see what I have in the engine. The first thing he did was take out the Yost tube and install the stock one, replace the Yost needle with an 88 Sportster needle, went back to the stock 45 low jet and a 200 main. This gave me a couple of HP and torque. He left the lighter spring in and said we may have to replace the slide because I drilled it to 7/64 but at the end we left it in. He said he had better luck with this kind of set up than the Yost kits. After that he tuned the ignition tuner. After every thing was complete I had gained 4 ft lbs. and nearly 6 HP. I thought this was great. What I really liked was the fact that he showed me the results of each improvement as we went along. The bike runs much better and I am pleased with it. I still have a small clatter or similar noise in the 2500 to 3000 range and I can not tell nor can anyone else what exactly it is. Oil pump spring? Maybe just the nature of the beast but other than that I am happy. I like the techs at our local HD but Tillys definately has more on the ball when it comes to the dyno tuning. At least for me anyway.
 
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