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And i will compare the cross section of the 11157 to the 4 pushrod cover orings i got with a pair of calipers.
Please do... My gasket kit had the same 5 orings... First time I have done an oil pump and it felt ok ( snug) to me when I installed the pump??
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Have you ran the motor yet? If so, if its got good oil pressure and power, you should be good. If its got good oil pressure, but feels significantly slower than it should, you can remove the plug on the bottom of the engine, and if more than a few ounces of oil comes out- like half a quart or more, then its sumping and the oring is not seated correctly. S&S has an article where a bike made 20 hp less than it should have, so they checked and sure enough, the crank case was full of oil, which was what was causing the power loss. Think of it this way- running through water that is ankle deep vs running through water that is hip deep- the flywheels drag in the oil, causing huge power loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Alright. I checked a used oring for the upper pushrod tube and oil pump, a new upper pushrod oring, and the new oil pump oring 11157 i got today. All measured .134 ish. So, other than compound differences, the cross sections and inside diameters seem to be the same.
 

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If you place them on top of each other, it is immediately apparent that the oil ring is bigger than the push rod tube ring. It was also more difficult to push the cam plate back in which probably should have been a clue the first time, but it was the first time I had done this repair and didn't know by feel what it should be like.
 

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Have you ran the motor yet? If so, if its got good oil pressure and power, you should be good. If its got good oil pressure, but feels significantly slower than it should, you can remove the plug on the bottom of the engine, and if more than a few ounces of oil comes out- like half a quart or more, then its sumping and the oring is not seated correctly. S&S has an article where a bike made 20 hp less than it should have, so they checked and sure enough, the crank case was full of oil, which was what was causing the power loss. Think of it this way- running through water that is ankle deep vs running through water that is hip deep- the flywheels drag in the oil, causing huge power loss.
If your asking me no, I have not fired mine yet... Been waiting for some tools on line ( Dog bone torque wrench adapter) and I am a bit of a fiddle fk........Thanks for the response...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Now Ive got another issue im looking at. I thought these heads were 06 heads, but the numbers on em are 16725-99 and 16723- 99, so theyre 99 to 05 heads? Anyone know what springs these are? Theyre obviously beehives vs the dual springs that are usually on there. This thing is driving me nuts.
263764
 

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Take a deep breath.
06 heads came with beehive springs.The casting design still dates back to 99.If the valve stems measure 7mm then there's no reason not to believe the heads aren't 2006 heads.If the stems measure 5/16 in.then they are most likely pre 2005 heads.
 

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Take a deep breath.
06 heads came with beehive springs.The casting design still dates back to 99.If the valve stems measure 7mm then there's no reason not to believe the heads aren't 2006 heads.
The springs look like being cylindrical and double like the original pre 2006 springs and then your valve lift is limited to .510 inches.

Armin.
 

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The springs look like being cylindrical and double like the original pre 2006 springs and then your valve lift is limited to .510 inches.

Armin.
Valve lift is limited to .510" on pre 2006 springs but the pic looks like a beehive to me.
 

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If they were earlier heads retrofitted with beehives from the aftermarket, they could be good for a lot more. I like to use Goodson's and they have both 5/16" and 7 mm flavors in lifts of .610 and .660. I'm sure that is what most sources cover. I would guess anything is possible, but it would be pretty strange if someone went to all that trouble and limited themselves to what would be a bolt-in cam. You said you have cvo253 cams, are those SE-253? If so, the specs say .538 lift intake and exhaust.


If you have the equipment, you could always measure them yourself to be sure. If you plan to change some things with the motor, like the cams, it would be best to know exactly you have before going too much further.
 

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Yep, the aftermarket offers several options. It's always good to check everything when going through a rebuild. Never assume.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The springs are definitely beehives, but the valves are the larger stem , 99 to 05. The cams that were in it were cvo 253, which were the original cams when doing a 103 on a 99 to 05 bike where they were cracking the case and installing the 4.375" stroke flywheels before the 96" came out from the factory with the 4.375" stroke. They are called se 253 now. I bought a set of Andrews TW37B because they are much better for my build. The 253 cams are no good in an 88 incher with stock compression, with an intake close of over 50 degrees abdc, the bike was a complete turd. I dont understand why someone would put those cams in and 88 and spend the money on head work. Instead of getting better suited cams for the setup. The heads are even ported. Anyhow, i have no idea what springs are on the heads, so i have no idea if they are installed at the correct height or what pressure they should measure or what length they should be uninstalled. I like to do things by the book and also id like to be able to tell someone exactly whats been done to the bike if im selling it. Tomorrow, im going to my friends shop to use his tools to do a valve job and replace the valve stem seals on the heads cause ive got no clue on mileage and the seals are definitely the originals I can tell by the design of the lips. I will see what i can come up with on the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well shes all back together. Tank had some chips so im getting it painted since i had to take it off and i had already gotten the fenders and fairing done.
I did Feuling inner cam bearings since it still had the oe in there, new outer cam bearings, Tw37b cams, new lifters, Cyco tensioner shoes, .030 head gaskets, valve job, new stem seals, reused the beehive springs, and cast 1550cc flat tops. Heads measured 84cc, deck height was around .0015 below so i left it. Should be a huge improvement over the former setup.
Just have to get the tank back and put some miles on it and ill take it to the dyno to see what it makes. Im guessing 95 ish lb ft and 90 ish hp, we will see. Thanks to everyone for enduring this clusterfuck.
 

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Thanks for the update.If I remember correctly many set the heads at 82-83 cc's with that combination.You're close.Hope your work gives you the results that you're looking for.
 
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