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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to check the timing on the bike. It was off a little (towards the front side), and I was able to adjust the two dots to center - what a pain in the ass having to move back and forth trying to move that sucker just enough.

What I did notice is - the bike was misfiring a little but I also noticed the strobe was flashing the same as the misfire. That tells me the spark is being delivered unevenly - and not a misfired plug (Plug is not fouled). I changed plug, wires and still witnessed this.

Since this coil has been proven good, and the wires as well from a previous problem, should I consider the cam position sensor or the ignition module as suspect? Should I even care? It was very odd to see strobe miss. Do they go bad?

One more thing - it has an SE cam in it, I still have no idea which one because I still dont have the papers from the previous owner - this shouldnt affect the advance check procedure should it?

Its a 96 evo.
 

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Does it have a single or dual fire ignition? By misfire do you mean its not firing when it should be? I would check all connections from the nose cone, along the frame up to the ignition module and then to the coil. Make sure they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stock dual fire (New coil, new wires, new plugs).

Below about 1300RPM the bike will skip a beat in a non uniform maner, not a rythym, I would say five or six times a minute - sometimes more. I never really payed attention to it, but when I notcied the strobe of the timing light doing the same thing it made me wonder if it was signs of something other then just not being 100% warmed up.

Since the light works off a spark going through the wire, if it doesnt flash (on either wire since its dual fire) when that miss happens, seems electrical.

I'll check all the wires, but since the CPS and Ignition Module are 10 years old I wouldnt be shocked if one was going **** up. Module is about $100, no idea on the cost of a CPS. I'm not going to pull either for no reason.
 

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Does it misfire around 2500-3500? I think mine does the same at 1300 and held steady, but it goes away when speeding up. I put a crane HI-4 single fire in mine and I think it says to check the timing around 2500-2800, don't remember right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was about 1100-1200 where it was misfiring. Book says time it at 1050-1500. It actually runs good 2000 and up.

When it stops raining at night and leaving a sheet of ice on the road I'll drive it and see how it does. May be a few days.
 

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tibs said:
It was about 1100-1200 where it was misfiring. Book says time it at 1050-1500. It actually runs good 2000 and up.

When it stops raining at night and leaving a sheet of ice on the road I'll drive it and see how it does. May be a few days.
The cam doesn't make any difference, especially if it was running ok before. You should check the timing at or very near 1500 rpm to allow the advance to kick in. Also check the VOES switch operation as per the service manual, although that would most like cause problems ABOVE 1500 rpm. Still worth checking, though.

What kind of pipes do you have? I've seen EVOs with drag pipes or exhausts without baffles do that a lot at low rpms. It's due to excessive reversion in the exhaust, causing it to stutter and suck air into the pipe... usually the rear cylinder. It could also be an intake leak. Spray some WD-40 (using the red nozzle) around the sealing areas on the intake while it's running. If the engine speed drops slightly while doing this, you have a leak.

Weak ignition can cause this, too. Change your plugs (they're cheap) and check or replace the wires (also cheap). I change mine every spring and haven't had any problems with them.

Another thing is the outside air temp. What was the temp when the bike was last tuned? If it's a lot colder outside now, it may be running lean. I have to turn the screw on my S&S about a quarter turn when the temps drop below 30 deg or so do the the increased air density.

One more thing to look at is the pushrod adjustment and oil screen in the pump. If the lifters aren't pumping up at idle, then it will run rough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just so I understand you right on the timing part:

Close to 1500, make sure the two dots are in the view plug, with 0 advance on the light. Take it up and make sure it does advance (retard) or in otherwords, move out of the view plug.

I just want to be sure that I understood the procedure right - I want the two dots in the middle when between 1050-1500. Thats what I have right now, and it was a little forward before I adjusted it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Holy crap I screwed that all up. I timmed it to 20 degrees at 1400.

I read that stupid procesure 10 times and gathered just the two dots were all I cared about.

Did I hurt this thing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I just reread the service manual.

It says to set the speed to 1050-1500 and use the two dots for 1996, the one dot for 1995. 95 uses the one dot or 35 degrees and 96 uses the two dots at 20 degrees.

The line is TDC.

I'm going to put the bike up and get the flywheel marks located, and see what I have at 1050, 1500 and 2500 in the hole, Im quite curious. I've put about 40 miles on the bike and it seemed ok but hell I was just glad to be on the bike.

I have that little plug, and yea its a pain to see, but not impossible.
 
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