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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 Ultra classic that has been punched out to 103. It has Zippers Stage 3 heads on it with Redshift 577 cams, Ness Big Sucker and D&D Fatcat 2 into 1, also a HPI 55 mm throttle body and SE 4.89 injectors. I just this past winter installed the D&D and the throttle body. I upgraded to the 792 map with the Thundermax hardware. I had issues with the IAC tuning and it was showing both cylinders running lean. Of course the fuel mileage was crappy and finally the Thundermax quit reading the rear cylinder altogether. I got a new O2 sensor thing that it was the problem but it made no difference. I ordered a new Thundermax and had Fuel Moto load a map into it. Now bike is hard to start. Any suggestions? Do you think if I go into my laptop and load the Thundermax 792 map it will make a difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I believe it is 10.5 to 1 That is what I remember my builder telling me it was when we did the bore 9 years ago.
 

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That looks like the correct map for the build.

Since the issue started with the throttle body, that's where I'd be looking.

Double check all the sensor functions. And if the dead O2 is pegged lean, look for a vacuum leak at the head or a defective injector. You might double check the injector plugs for correct orentation.
 

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I talked to Fuel Moto and they installed the 792 map in it already. I rode it about 75 miles today and it is running good with no check engine light. Stil doesn't start of first revolution every time but I am going to run it a while and let the auto tune do it stuff. I will keep you posted and thank you for your help.
 

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Been awhile since I posted to this thread but wanted to do an update. Found the compensating sprocket was bad thus giving me hard starting issues. Replaced it this past winter with SE compensating sprocket. Start much better but this motor still has a spark knock at around 2000 rpm. I pulled a couple degrees out of it and it ran worse. I am fed up with this Thundermax and thinking of going to a different fuel management controller. Any suggestions? Oh yeah, everybody that ride behind me says it is running rich with black smoke coming out when I get into it a little. Looking for suggestions.
 

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I am fed up with this Thundermax and thinking of going to a different fuel management controller. Any suggestions?
Power Vision with wideband O2 sensors.
Then get it to a GOOD tuner.

Sent from here to there.
 

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Been awhile since I posted to this thread but wanted to do an update. Found the compensating sprocket was bad thus giving me hard starting issues. Replaced it this past winter with SE compensating sprocket. Start much better but this motor still has a spark knock at around 2000 rpm. I pulled a couple degrees out of it and it ran worse. I am fed up with this Thundermax and thinking of going to a different fuel management controller. Any suggestions? Oh yeah, everybody that ride behind me says it is running rich with black smoke coming out when I get into it a little. Looking for suggestions.
You send any data to Tmax yet, ask their opinion.

Seeing as you live in MD, you could run it over to Zippers and let them have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fxwg8180

I have email Zippers today and asked them what they suggested. Hope to hear back from them in the next day or so.
 

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Well spark knock at 2000 shouldn't be a hard fix.

How much throttle are you rolling on when it knocks. And what gears are you hearing it in.

It could just be from lugging the motor so badly. You rally shouldn't be down there with 577's in a 103, except for pulling off in first.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got reply back from Zippers yesterday. Also as I was researching cams I see where the Redshift 577 needs adjustable pushrods. Pete at Zippers confirmed this so I have ordered a set of S&S Quickie pushrods and a new set of lifters. Can anybody tell me why it would matter with adjustable pushrods? Could this be part of my problem with "spark knock" and bad fuel mileage? These are the factory originals pushrods and when I had the motor built he never said I needed adjustables.
 

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Got reply back from Zippers yesterday. Also as I was researching cams I see where the Redshift 577 needs adjustable pushrods. Pete at Zippers confirmed this so I have ordered a set of S&S Quickie pushrods and a new set of lifters. Can anybody tell me why it would matter with adjustable pushrods? Could this be part of my problem with "spark knock" and bad fuel mileage? These are the factory originals pushrods and when I had the motor built he never said I needed adjustables.
Typically, I think the only reason to NEED adjustable push rods would be if the base circle of the new cams is different from stock which would make the stock push rods the wrong length.
 

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Typically, I think the only reason to NEED adjustable push rods would be if the base circle of the new cams is different from stock which would make the stock push rods the wrong length.
Okay, get out your manuals boys. The bottom of the pushrod sits in the lifter and the bottom of the lifter rolls on the cam lobes. The pushrod never comes in contact with the cams.

And if the pushrods bent a valve I doubt I would have gotten 23000 miles out of it. Think about this, wonder if the stock pushrods were a little shorter than the adjustable pushrods? Then the valves wouldn't open far enough and never being in the way of the piston.

I had no problems until last year when the original Thundermax I got took a crap and I had t get a new one.
 

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Well spark knock at 2000 shouldn't be a hard fix.

How much throttle are you rolling on when it knocks. And what gears are you hearing it in.

It could just be from lugging the motor so badly. You rally shouldn't be down there with 577's in a 103, except for pulling off in first.
Thank you for your sensible answer. I don't have to roll on it much to hear it ping and you are correct, at around 2600 rpm's it takes off and walks away from 110 inch SE. (Another reason I don't think it bent a valve or a pushrod)
I have been trying to keep the rpm's down hoping to save a little on fuel and extending my ride capability's. Everybody else has a 6 gallon tank and mine is only 5. Zippers does want me to change out the pushrods and send them a file so they can look at it. Parts are ordered.
 

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Think about this, wonder if the stock pushrods were a little shorter than the adjustable pushrods? Then the valves wouldn't open far enough and never being in the way of the piston.
If the pushrods were so short that it wouldn't open the valves as much, you'd be hearing quite a racket from the valvetrain. Don't need a manual for that. :duh2:
 

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I don't know what the base circle is on that cam, But I would bet a nickle that it will work just fine with std rods. The catalogue saying it is not a bolt in is about lift and valve springs.

You can check it just by popping a couple of push rod tubes. Roll it through to the top of the compression stroke and check the pushrods. No free play, a little drag when you spin them and no wobble. I'm running a cam with more lift than that with oem length rods.

Past that stop lugging it and see what it does for the ping. Your are not saving anything by running it that slow. If you want to save fuel, then set your mix targets a little leaner below 3000 rpm.
 
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