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Passin' through
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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Estimate from a local indy said I will not need comp rls with this package he suggested:

bore my cylinders to 95"
pistons 10.25 cast
cam kit S&S 510 geared
gasket kit Cometic
Labor 16 hs (12 hrs motor [includes tune], 4 hrs headwork [intake 140 cfm @ 500 lift, exhaust 118-120 cfm @ 500 lift, bench flowed at 10" H2O vacuum])

From what Ive read in the Forum, I'll probly need (or want) releases w/ comp ratio over 10:1. Concur?

Bonus questions:
Does this look like a good package?
Assume a good tune, what sort of torq curve might I expect to see?


In advance, thanks a bunch for any feedback. {salute(

My ride:
2005 Road King injected
K&N air cleaner (same as SE) w/ stage 1 ECM
PC III usb
V&H Ovals slip-ons
HB-125 primary chain tensioner (me likes)
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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4,369 Posts
Here's my two cents from parts that are/WERE in my bike. The S&S 510 cam is a nice little soft bolt in cam designed for STOCK heads. It does NOT, repeat NOT like compression. I had SE heads with 10:1 CR, and I needed compression releases. I had to set my timing so far back that I could not take advantage of the cam because of the compression. So, I had a street port done to my stock heads, and run 9:8 CR now. I still can't step on the timing like I would like to because of the cam. All this is about to change this winter!!!!

Keeping everything else the same, I would suggest Woods TW6. It's still a 510 cam and a bolt in, and uses stock springs. BUT........... the ramps and timing are so different from the S&S, it's like night and day.
 

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Super Moderator
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5,582 Posts
The simple answer is if you think you "might" need compression releases than by all means install them, you don't have to use them every time but I am betting with the 36 degree(if I remeber correctly) intake closing on the 510's you will end up with somewhere around 200 ccp. Your starter will thank you on a hot restart.
 

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?????
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3,531 Posts
Those extra handfull of dollars to put them in are nothing once you need them because your breaking parts. The build I'm running now (HQ Heads 0039 Cams and 10:1) doesn't need them, but I had them done just incase.
 

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Registered
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well, the reason geezer-glide had some trouble is because you have a harder time getting a cam that is over compressed behaving with a carb, than you do with efi. The S&S 510 cam is similar to a Andrews 37 and with efi you can run them right up to 9.8 or 9.9:1. With a carb, more like 9.6:1. With what is being proposed in your list, I see the ccp getting up towards 200 psi and that is going to be a potentially difficult build to deal with over the long haul. Personally, I would rather see the stock SE flat tops used and then mill the head down to hit the cc's required to get to 9.8 or 9.9:1, using a .040" Cometic. At that compression, you will not need releases and it will be a happy build for years to come and it will make a real nice torque curve. My dos centavos.
 

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I paid.........did you??
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2,301 Posts
I agree.........if you think you are ever going to need the releases, install them now while the heads are off. It's only a minimal expense to have them done, and it's a lot easier to do them now then to have to tear it down later and do it then.

I agree with going with the Woods TW-6G cams........great torque cam.

Steve
 

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Banned
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4,508 Posts
Releases

How does that go, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".
Battery, ring gear, spur gear, starter clutch, and embarassment/aggravation are all set aside if you even think you want/need 'em.
 

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13,064 Posts
You are going to have work done on your heads anyway, most guys charge about $100 for them. That is cheap insurance, I have seen guys with 10:1 use these.
 

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Passin' through
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332 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks ALL

Reason I WAS leaning towards having this indy do the job for me is cuz he's local, hence wanted him to be fully onboard with HIS suggested package (at a really low price too). But I'm at the point I'm about settled on ordering a sub 9.8:1 CR kit from one of our site sponsors and doing most of the work myself. I like knowing I'll be getting a known, proven product, even if I stumble along the way doing the build myself.

Thanks all for the outstanding advice. Now all I need is about a month of crappy weather... I'll probly buy and stage the stuff over the next couple months and wait til Dec to tear into it.

BTW, I have the manual, but would greatly benefit from a website or list of sites that have fotos and descriptions on how to do a generic build:
Heads, boring jugs, pistons, cams, etc. Any suggestions?

Anybody publish "Hot rodding a TC for Idiots" yet?
 

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Lazy 98
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355 Posts
Flashkev said:
Reason I WAS leaning towards having this indy do the job for me is cuz he's local, hence wanted him to be fully onboard with HIS suggested package (at a really low price too). But I'm at the point I'm about settled on ordering a sub 9.8:1 CR kit from one of our site sponsors and doing most of the work myself. I like knowing I'll be getting a known, proven product, even if I stumble along the way doing the build myself.

Thanks all for the outstanding advice. Now all I need is about a month of crappy weather... I'll probly buy and stage the stuff over the next couple months and wait til Dec to tear into it.

BTW, I have the manual, but would greatly benefit from a website or list of sites that have fotos and descriptions on how to do a generic build:
Heads, boring jugs, pistons, cams, etc. Any suggestions?

Anybody publish "Hot rodding a TC for Idiots" yet?
Yes! Talk to Steve at GMR. If you buy the stuff from him, he's available 24 hours a day by phone to help you do the install! Ok, just kidding on the 24 hours part, but he will help you out...
 

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Banned
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4,508 Posts
Engine combination

Flashkev said:
Reason I WAS leaning towards having this indy do the job for me is cuz he's local, hence wanted him to be fully onboard with HIS suggested package (at a really low price too). But I'm at the point I'm about settled on ordering a sub 9.8:1 CR kit from one of our site sponsors and doing most of the work myself. I like knowing I'll be getting a known, proven product, even if I stumble along the way doing the build myself.

Thanks all for the outstanding advice. Now all I need is about a month of crappy weather... I'll probly buy and stage the stuff over the next couple months and wait til Dec to tear into it.

BTW, I have the manual, but would greatly benefit from a website or list of sites that have fotos and descriptions on how to do a generic build:
Heads, boring jugs, pistons, cams, etc. Any suggestions?

Anybody publish "Hot rodding a TC for Idiots" yet?
We have dedicated packages for touring or boulevard blasters.
Been doing it for quite some time, and we know what works very well.
Increased fuel economy, decreased engine temps, fun factor goes way up.
What model do you have? How do you ride? Two up?
These, and more questions, need to be addressed in order to present you with and outstanding combo, with many miles of reliabilty.
We are easily accessable via phone,e-mail,fax, and we are more than happy to help you if you get into a snag during your do-it-yourself project.
Scott
 

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Premium Member
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637 Posts
Geezer-Glide said:
Here's my two cents from parts that are/WERE in my bike. The S&S 510 cam is a nice little soft bolt in cam designed for STOCK heads. It does NOT, repeat NOT like compression. I had SE heads with 10:1 CR, and I needed compression releases. I had to set my timing so far back that I could not take advantage of the cam because of the compression. So, I had a street port done to my stock heads, and run 9:8 CR now. I still can't step on the timing like I would like to because of the cam. All this is about to change this winter!!!!

Keeping everything else the same, I would suggest Woods TW6. It's still a 510 cam and a bolt in, and uses stock springs. BUT........... the ramps and timing are so different from the S&S, it's like night and day.
What octane do you run? 10 to 1 isn't that high
 

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Go fast or dont go.
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150 Posts
putem in, its not worth the trouble and expense not to.
 

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IronButt
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6,364 Posts
A engine with a carb and 95 inch I would run the andrews 37 or the new 525 cam from R&R . For a basic build I would keep compression under 10.1 and run a good adjustable ign system, port the heads and bore the cylinders. GO out and ride and enjoy the build. I am not a huge fan of the 510 ex timing.

Thanks Mike and his is correct you can get a hold of me almost any time the cell phone is listed. We know that many are working on there engines during times that are not normal shop hours. So as many know you can call me after hours and on weekeds to get help if you have any questions.
 

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Cams

The Craig Walters software shows a difference between the .525 and the Bob Wood .510. The #6 shows 4 more ft/lbs @ 2750 and out, and 4-5 additional hp on the other side. IE broader torque. Both run down the road at a corrected CR of 9.5:1.
 

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Premium Member
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467 Posts
Hillsidecycle.com said:
The Craig Walters software shows a difference between the .525 and the Bob Wood .510. The #6 shows 4 more ft/lbs @ 2750 and out, and 4-5 additional hp on the other side. IE broader torque. Both run down the road at a corrected CR of 9.5:1.
Scott, thanks for the info. Where can I buy a copy of this program?
thanks
Dave
 

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Software

foddlefadel said:
Scott, thanks for the info. Where can I buy a copy of this program?
thanks
Dave
Dave,
I do believe that Mid-USA Cycle Parts, St. Louis, Mo., still offers that.
If not, give me a call.
Scott
 

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4,741 Posts
Hillsidecycle.com said:
The Craig Walters software shows a difference between the .525 and the Bob Wood .510. The #6 shows 4 more ft/lbs @ 2750 and out, and 4-5 additional hp on the other side. IE broader torque. Both run down the road at a corrected CR of 9.5:1.
Is that the old DOS version? we use that one.
 
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