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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Besides removing the weights and bearings , having the wheels balanced, and plugging the feed port on the cam plate. Is there anything else I am missing.
Should I bolt the housings and chain guide support plate back on to retain any rigidity that maybe lost? I am building a 103 now with 10.5cr and I do tend to get a little throttle happy and just need to smoke one every know and then. I just can't see leaving it in and spinning the sprocket or even worst busting a chain.

Can any one give me any feedback as to the vibration factor? Is the vibration less or more than an EVO. I understand that a 103 is not the best choice but am probably going bigger in a year or two. Piggy bank empty.

Any comment pertaining to this subject would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Everything you mentioned is all you need to do. Remove the balancers and chain. When I had my flywheels rebalanced, they put a spacer in place of the balancer chain sprocket. Other than blocking off the tensioner feed hole, your all set. The vibration was a little more noticeable, but I went from a 95 inch motor to a higher compression, higher horsepower 117, so I will attribute some of that to the increased displacement and hp of the motor, and some to the fact that the balancers were gone. It is not bad at all.....Less that a lot of Evo motors that I have rode. It is a real simple deal.......I think you have a handle on it. Who are you going to have re-balance the flywheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am probably going with EMC out of Cincinnati.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should I remove the bearings. I can't see leaving them in. Does the support plate need to be there for any other reason than strengthening the case?
 

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TC88B - Counterbalancer Removal

I am thinking of doing this to my 05 Standard. After riding it for a while, it seems dead. No engine feedback. I think I would leave the sprocket on the shaft because I don't think it would cause a problem and it is already the right size spacer. What is used to plug the oil feed hole to the balancer system? I am thinking of tapping the hole and screwing in a plug with some Locktite. I think I will also go up to 103".
 

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IronButt
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6,364 Posts
Thread and install a plug inthe case at the oil pump side and toss all other parts. If you are having the crank done make sure that you get a statement as to what pinion run out will be, what crank pin they are using, what you want the thrust set at and wrist pin spec as well. Have the entire crank rebuilt. As I was not aware that EMC did the crank work in house???

Good luck
 

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ok. in that case...
will the crank that comes in the new TC96 support the power made from a stout 114, just in case i decide to go that route instead of the 107, and, can this crank be cut/rebalanced if i remove the balancers
 

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IronButt
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6,364 Posts
Having the crank re -worked,would be fine but you do not build a 114 with the stroker crank you either have a 107 or a 117 or 124 ( 117/124 require case boring) when you are in there I would convert to a timken bearing.
 

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Revperf
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281 Posts
merc1100sc said:
ok. in that case...
will the crank that comes in the new TC96 support the power made from a stout 114, just in case i decide to go that route instead of the 107, and, can this crank be cut/rebalanced if i remove the balancers
As Steve said. At 4.250 bore the displacement would be 124". It can be balanced without issue being is that we have already balanced one to our flat-top 124cid piston kit. Nice piece. I would definitely convert to Timken while it is down though. Already done that as well. Let me know if we can help when you get ready and I will put a package deal together for you.

BN
 

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revperf said:
As Steve said. At 4.250 bore the displacement would be 124". It can be balanced without issue being is that we have already balanced one to our flat-top 124cid piston kit. Nice piece. I would definitely convert to Timken while it is down though. Already done that as well. Let me know if we can help when you get ready and I will put a package deal together for you.

BN

Thanks for the info, but, heres the thing. I dont want to go too big... i know many will ask why... I just dont want to have so much power that I start breaking drivetrain stuff or burning clutches.. and, i 124" monster around here would be so much faster than everyone else that it wouldn't even be fun to goof off w/ my buddies anymore..... my last bike was a deuce w/ a 120" zippers muscle kit.. it went great.. but, was no fnu because there was no one to race.. not saying that it was the fastest thing around, but, in our group all i did was watch everyone else race.. getting the jump, or making that perfect shift to me is what makes it all fun.. and, not to mention i was snapping blets and eating clutches up too.. i dont want to have to beef the hell out of the drivetrain. and i dont want to have to nurse the bike either..

with that said, ive heard so many good things about the 107 and 114 kits..
just not sure if the 107 will be enough, and, will the 117 have the same characteristics as the 114.. i need to be able to run w/ a balanced 113 SE motor, cnc heads, etc... if the 107 will do it, then im game.. otherwise, if you can, can you PM me a package price for a 117 built by you, with the timken, balancers removed, and crank rebalanced....
 
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