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I have been reading some of the posts about the 2003 and later crank bearing failures. Is this an intermitent problem or on all 2003 and later bikes with high horse builds? I was planning a 95ci build next year and don't want to go with the expensive of new crank bearings. Bearings are cheap but labor is expensive. Any first hand experiences or advice?

Tim
 

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cs1 said:
I have been reading some of the posts about the 2003 and later crank bearing failures. Is this an intermitent problem or on all 2003 and later bikes with high horse builds? I was planning a 95ci build next year and don't want to go with the expensive of new crank bearings. Bearings are cheap but labor is expensive. Any first hand experiences or advice?

Tim

Check this thread, pretty informative.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64296
 

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ViennaHog said:

Interesting, Mr. Viennahog. Maybe I read your link to fast but did you say that your left main bearing failed? Sure looks ugly...sorry to hear it.

I would think, based on what I have read here and other forums that for most purposes like tourng and cruising, the straight roller on the 2003 and later would be OK at 95 cubic inches. OTOH, If you are one of those who like to push your motor really fast and do a lot of heavy duty street dragging, (you know who you are!) then I wouldn't doubt that you should go to a tapered Timken roller. The one in my Shovelhead is still good after 24 years!

Funny thing, the dealers are installing 95 cu in kits in almost every last bike they sell these days (except mine) and they never say a word about the left main. Even their Screaming Eagle 103's have the straight roller. Go figure. :)
 

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newultraclassic said:
Interesting, Mr. Viennahog. Maybe I read your link to fast but did you say that your left main bearing failed? Sure looks ugly...sorry to hear it.

I would think, based on what I have read here and other forums that for most purposes like tourng and cruising, the straight roller on the 2003 and later would be OK at 95 cubic inches. OTOH, If you are one of those who like to push your motor really fast and do a lot of heavy duty street dragging, (you know who you are!) then I wouldn't doubt that you should go to a tapered Timken roller. The one in my Shovelhead is still good after 24 years!

Funny thing, the dealers are installing 95 cu in kits in almost every last bike they sell these days (except mine) and they never say a word about the left main. Even their Screaming Eagle 103's have the straight roller. Go figure. :)
Yes, the left bearing (sprocket side) failed. Maybe I have to redefine for myself what ' pushing the motor' means.......:D
OTOH I could blame it on the OL 'cause she drags a whole bunch of stuff on our trips. Naah, that wouldn't work as she's gonna tell me to lose some 20# and we are even.
 

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cs1 said:
This is one of the posts that started me wondering. What does it cost to replace the left crank bearing?


Tim

On a Softail pretty big deal as the engine won't come out without tranny, the oil tank, the starter, the rear wheel etc removed. Complete top end disassembly, strip the motor down to the cases and split it. I believe we were pretty quick and it took us probably 10h to get there (including step by step documentation/R&D)

Next step:
Timken conversion at Zippers about $300 + shipping two ways
Bearings
gasket kit top/bottom end and maybe another 10h to get it back together.

Just a long shot, I would guess $1500 labor, $300 Zippers, $200-$250 for gasket sets. Anywhere between $2000-$2500 just for that.

Once I am done I am probably out by $7,500 bucks (well some goodies included). You buy a $2,500 insurance to cover a $7,500 risk at what 1,3,5,10% probability that it happens to you during ownership.As proactive measure, well IMHO not worth it. In a less radical failure that equation gets even worse

Don't lose sleep over that
 

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Vienna Hog, I read only today what haappened to Your'bike. I feel sorry for You and also this drove me thinking about ours bikes: we all spent 13-5-20K euros to buy motorcycles that soon or later wil need more expences not for enhancements but only to avoid further mess. Well, this is the kind of things that rapidly make product falling down in peoples consideration. And thats what, exactly, is happening to me. I used to have BMW motorbikes before (not one, four beems) and had driven them from Corse to Turkey and never had great problems. Fors shure on none, in 30 years, I spent as much as I spent on my Sporty and Dyna but while with sporty everything seems rather fairly affordable and reparable, twinkye suchs. its a pity.
 

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IronButt
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Dont kid yourself on the failure only being on built bikes. I have seen this plenty on bone stock rides. My self if upgrading would be under 100 cubes. I see roller motors that are perfect and others including timken style that are not so it comes down to being lucky i guess and what mood the guy that built you engine was in . You are looking at 300 on the timken upgrade and any where from 15 hours + for the work, Not sure if you are dropping motor out or whole bike and model of bike will make difference as well.
 

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This must be an isolated incident. You sure don't here about it on here like you do the cam tensioner problems. Am I right?? Hate it though that it happened to you VH.

Should we really be concerned?
 
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