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So I'm upgrading my 06 lowrider this winter, it's got the 88" in it.
I'm going with the S&S 100" kit 10:1 compression, S&S cam plate and pump with a woods 777 cam and install kit.
Sending heads for a full upgrade ( port, polished, springs guides etc.). I've got a T-max tuner and I'm running cobra speedster 909s. ( I know not the most ideal but that's what I got to work with . there 2 months old and didn't know I was going to have the money for the build).
So I guess the question is does anyone run a set up like this ?
Does it seem like a solid combination?
If your running something like this what's your #s?
 

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I’m running this in my 05 ultra (88). It’s a great kit, ant the best way to describe it is....BEAST. the power to 3k rpm is very very notable and when the cam kicks it there then HOLD ON. i did the bigger valves with my head porting. The only difference is I used power vision.
 
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I’m running this in my 05 ultra (88). It’s a great kit, ant the best way to describe it is....BEAST. the power to 3k rpm is very very notable and when the cam kicks it there then HOLD ON. i did the bigger valves with my head porting. The only difference is I used power vision.
You got tq and hp # ?
The combo sounds awesome
 

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267696


I have the same kit with 30000 km on them and look how they are in the bore. It look´s like a scrub board.
 

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N
You got tq and hp # ?
The combo sounds awesome
Not yet, I have 800 miles on it so far, waiting till at least a 1000 to dyno. I also am running thunder header 2/1/. It feels like 120hp/130tq but we shall see. I did walk off from a new cvo
 

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View attachment 267696

I have the same kit with 30000 km on them and look how they are in the bore. It look´s like a scrub board.
And you think this is a result of the components being inferior? Have you considered the possibility that your results couple be attributable to shitty assembly procedures and not the fault of the components?
 
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And you think this is a result of the components being inferior? Have you considered the possibility that your results couple be attributable to shitty assembly procedures and not the fault of the components?
It´s the same to blame the guy who assemble it for a shitty assembly procedure. Look at this link that tell you S&S stopped the production in december 2017 and I bought my kit in march 2017 from Custom Chrome dealer in Sweden.

 

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It´s the same to blame the guy who assemble it for a shitty assembly procedure. Look at this link that tell you S&S stopped the production in december 2017 and I bought my kit in march 2017 from Custom Chrome dealer in Sweden.

The 4 inch kits retroactively infringed on a patent awarded to a patent troll. Someone looking for a quick payday. Not sure what happened, but they still sell 100 inch kits.
 

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That's a ring set up issue, who put it together?
I did it by my self.
I have the gap set in the middle range of recommended gap. And the ring square in the bore about an inch down from top of cylinder when I measured them.
Gap Top Ring .024” - .026” Second Ring .032” -.035” Oil Ring .015” Minimum
 

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I did it by my self.
I have the gap set in the middle range of recommended gap. And the ring square in the bore about an inch down from top of cylinder when I measured them.
Gap Top Ring .024” - .026” Second Ring .032” -.035” Oil Ring .015” Minimum
I'd be more concerned with how you installed the oil ring spacer.

But past that, did you check the jugs in plates before you installed them? Set the gaps while they were in the plates?

The tell me about the first 20 minutes that it was running.
 

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I'd be more concerned with how you installed the oil ring spacer.

But past that, did you check the jugs in plates before you installed them? Set the gaps while they were in the plates?

The tell me about the first 20 minutes that it was running.
No didn´t check the jugs at all because the should be ready to run just do the ring gaps according to S&S instructions. I don´t have tools for doing that. just fitted the ring gap without plates. I have never noted any noise from the piston. The bike was running fine 117 hp on the dyno. I can see some smal marks in the rear cylinder too in the same spot as the front cylinder. this kit is the 910-0599 and now the same kit has a different part number. They have made a change on the kit maybe a better steel in the cylinder.
 

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No didn´t check the jugs at all because the should be ready to run just do the ring gaps according to S&S instructions. I don´t have tools for doing that. just fitted the ring gap without plates. I have never noted any noise from the piston. The bike was running fine 117 hp on the dyno. I can see some smal marks in the rear cylinder too in the same spot as the front cylinder. this kit is the 910-0599 and now the same kit has a different part number. They have made a change on the kit maybe a better steel in the cylinder.
1) Every jug that has been shipped should be plated and checked. Out of the 20 or so big bore kits I've check for people in the last few years, about a forth of the jugs were not round in the plates
2) You can not properly set ring gaps in a free jug (no plates) Plates are an essential tool for working with thin spigot jugs.

You didn't tell me about the first 20 minutes of running it. And you didn't tell me about the oil ring spacer.

Reversed oil ring spacers can cause this. As can out of round jugs. And if it over heats in the first five minutes, you can get a ring bind condition. The rings and a good magnifying glass might tell the tail, if they are not too chewed up.
 

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1) Every jug that has been shipped should be plated and checked. Out of the 20 or so big bore kits I've check for people in the last few years, about a forth of the jugs were not round in the plates
2) You can not properly set ring gaps in a free jug (no plates) Plates are an essential tool for working with thin spigot jugs.

You didn't tell me about the first 20 minutes of running it. And you didn't tell me about the oil ring spacer.

Reversed oil ring spacers can cause this. As can out of round jugs. And if it over heats in the first five minutes, you can get a ring bind condition. The rings and a good magnifying glass might tell the tail, if they are not too chewed up.
267997


the oil ring spacer is assembled with the butted tip facing up. I did the heat up cycles according to the instruction and after that not revving over 2500 rpm the first 50 miles. This side of the piston is against the damage in the cylinder and no signs of ring binding.
 

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the oil ring spacer is assembled with the butted tip facing up. I did the heat up cycles according to the instruction and after that not revving over 2500 rpm the first 50 miles. This side of the piston is against the damage in the cylinder and no signs of ring binding.
I can't say from a photo, but it looks like the second compression ring is showing more wear in the area above the pin. But its a photo and it could just be the lighting. The top ring looks like it was run tight, but again its just a photo. And running on that washboard jug pretty much wastes the ring edge.

Snap a shot of the ring gaps, one looking down and one showing the flat ends of the ring. And while you are at it, let me see the two skirts on that piston.

The tell on that jug is that the damage is limited to the area swept by the rings. So that is a big red flag pointing at the rings. And if the jug is round, that just leaves fit and installation. But with that said, if the jug is egg shaped under load, its going to over heat in the first 5 minutes and bind the rings, even with a perfectly set ring gap.
 

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Those rings are shot! Something made that happen. Dirt, the wrong break in, a terrible initial tune. Last and least likely are factory defective parts but I would be plating and checking the cylinders for size and how true they are (or are not)
 

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If S&S have put in the instruction sheet that you have to check the cylinders in plates for roundness and piston fit and do the ring gap check with plates then we could avoid problems like this. If I had know this I have take the kit to a machine shop for help. In some kit the write like this Cylinder w/ piston kits included in this Hot Set Up Kit are pre-fit and ready to install. With this kind off instructions things get wrong. over and out for this now waiting for my new flywheel with Timken converting and 117" kit and it should be assembled in a Harley shop in Sweden Charley Karling Racing.

Thanks for all input
 

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There are just some practices some of us do that aren't in the instructions. Some may call it above and beyond reasonable and customary others consider this just basics of mechanics for IC engines. I prefer to error on the side of caution. The instruction sheet also warns of the possibility of interference at the counterbore below the spigot in the area where the cases split. Some need to be relieved at 100 or 110". And I clean the cylinders obsessively. They always have honing grit that will show on a lint free rag before cleaning.
 
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