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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I'm trading in my 05 Sporty Custom tomorrow for a beautiful 06 RKC in Black Pearl. Having spent the better part of the last 16 years on Sportys and a few other bikes of course I have a few questions.

First thing: I HAVE to get rid of the beach bars and am probably going with the HD extended reach bars. Is there alot to doing the swap myself?? I checked with the dealer and they said it was almost a 3 hour job. That is what scares me. Sounds like there is alot to it. I am semi-mechanically inclined but there are many things I will not do. I just don't wanna rip apart a brand new bike and get stuck.

Second: If I just run slip-ons for now (thinking Wild Pigs due to many satisfied members here) do I have to mess with fuel management??

Next: Highway pegs. I am 5'9" with a 30" inseam. Yeah I am short-legged. What would be the best mount to get for highway pegs. I have looked at some of the HD ones and Kuryakyn but there are so many it is hard to decide. I know on my Sportys with forward controls I always liked to ride with my feet kicked over the pegs. So I would like to find something that I could get a similar position for long rides.

Here's another: Seats. I was looking for a seat that was a little more narrow than stock and also has some back support like a Corbin Young Guns. The only one I have found is the Lepera Daytona 2up. Anyone have any experience with this seat or have any suggestions for others???

And finally: This is mostly for people who have traded up from either Sportys or Dynas. I know this is alot bigger bike and is not going to handle the twisties anywhere near as good as either of those. But does it take alot of getting used to not throwing one of these into a corner hard?? I know the first time I hit some of my favorite twisties I am going to be tempted to ride it like I was on a Sporty. Which would probably not be good. I have had a few bigger bikes (namely a VTX1800) but nothing that's sole purpose is highway riding or touring.

Happy Easter and thanks for any input!!!
 

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yes my wife has a Lepera Daytona 2up and likes it a lot on a RK coustom . i like a rider backrest you can't put one on that seat . you can put one on a stock seat. but yae it is a nice seat

YOU WILL BE SUPRISED at how well the touring bike handles might just do better than sporty and dyna. i went from a fatboy to a electra Glide and was quickley suprised and than sold the fatboy
 

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I came from riding a Yamaha Virago to a Road King Classic and I can say that you will notice the wieght difference in the curves but the King handles beautifully......you just have to re-adjust yourself and get used to it, it won't take long at all !! A Road King is right around 710lbs dry wieght so it is a meaty bike but it truly is a good ride. After owning mine for nearly four years I am going to the Ultra Classic (buying mine next Friday). I just wish I had done it sooner cause I like the idea of a radio and more comfort for my riders.

Good Luck!!
 

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43 Fuel Curves
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The 2up Reach seat answers 3 of your 5 questions, you can leave your bars alone and use standard mounting hardware for your pegs.

Yes you will need a stage I flash for the ECM if you put on aftermarket slip-ons. You should also see sticky on "Build Your Own SE Stage-1 A/C with K&N Filter".
 

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Went from a sprorty to a roadking custom...(black pearl also...:D ). I'm also 5'9". Thought I wouldn't like the bars.....After the drive home.......fell in love with em. Don't think I'll ever get rid of them. I wouldn't characterize the roadkings as a strictly touring bike. Really missed the power and turning delight of the sporty at first. After the stage 1 upgrade and some nice pipes, I find that the bike has so much acceleration that I don't miss the sportster at all. As far as twisting....while you'll never get the lean angle that you got with the sporty, you'll find that once your comfortable with the bike you'll be able to have fun zipping around corners, (just be careful...the floor board supports give off pretty sparks!!). I feel my Roadking custom is the sportster of the roadkings, if that makes any sense. Low, fast, and nimble....just alot more comfortable (single or two up). I've been thinking about getting the adjustable highway pegs from Harley. But I find myself just resting my heels on the floorboards, with my legs stretched out, when I'm on the highway (there's that dang height thing again...lol). The only advise I can give you is to get the bike, get some miles on it before you go changing the bars, seat, pegs...etc. You might be surprised that you'll keep what you didn't like about the bike and you'll ditch what you thought you liked the most......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Well I already know the bars have to go. I have had surgery on both shoulders and even riding a short distance on a test ride it was a very uncomfortable position. I rode a buddies Heritage Classic for a day and found I love the position. It was easy on the shoulders and I actually found myself fir the first time since I started riding that my wrists didn't go numb. The reduced reach are very similar to the Heritage bars.

CP_Tom: I had a VTX 1800 at one time so I am used to a bigger bike. That thing weighed in at around 700lbs. But it was a very well balance bike. I could throw that thing into the corners with no problems. Only problem was clearance. I scraped the pegs many times on that one. But nothing like the three Sportys I have owned.

mtairy biker: When you mean you can't put a rider backrest on the Daytona do you mean a passenger backrest or one for myself?? If so it doesn't matter because I don't really like the idea of one for myself. I do need one for my fiance. Can that seat still accomodate a passenger backrest???

genoway: Is there any risk at not doing the Stage I flash or using a Power Commander with just slip-ons?? I plan to eventually do it but I was hoping to wait until I got a full exhaust system and whatever air cleaner I decide to go with.
 

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43 Fuel Curves
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You will be lean without a flash or something. Lean can lead to detonation on hot days at low altitude, which can cause engine damage. For least expensive option look at a DTT TFI (aka RevTech DFO.) or SE Race Fueler. You can then adjust it when you go full stage I or stage II. You can even use it with a stage III, but there are better options for stage III.

Again see the "Sticky" for a low cost Stage-1 A/C with K&N Filter.
 
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The handlebar swap is fairly straight forward. If you have the Service Manual it's very step-by-step. I posted the steps on here once. If I can find them,I'll copy them here.

Harris
 
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Tools:

Phillips screwdriver

Allen wrenchs

putty knife (or anything with a thin blade)

5/16" deep well scket, or 5/16" end wrench

1) Remove the headlamp trim ring (single phillips screw).

2) Remove the headlamp mounting screws (7 or eight black screws). Do not confuse the mounting screws with the aiming screws. These screws hold the backing plate in place. Once out, disconnect the headlamp at the connector and set it aside.

3) Using your 5/16" socket, with no ratchet attached, lossen the flange nut that is on the stud, at the front end of the trim strip. This stud sticks down into the top center of the nacelle. Be gentle in loosening, and later tigthening this nut. The stud is not strong, and breaks off easily. Once off, lift up on the trim piece (It's sort of hinged at the rear) and remove it.

4) Loosen the phillips screw near the rear of the nacelle, that was exposed when you removed the trim piece. You'll have to reach into the headlamp nacelle to hold the nut as you loosen this. Loosening halfway is plenty.

5) slip your putty knife under the trim ring around the fork lock keyway ("lock/unlock" ring). Gently pry up, removing the ring. Remove the two phillips screws now exposed. Now you can remove the cover.

You can now see the handlebar clamp.

6) Loosen the rear two allen bolts just to where you can adjust the bars. Get them where you want, making sure they are centered, and tighten them just enough to hold.

7) Tighten the front two bolts to the point the upper and lower halves of the clamp make contact. Tighten the rear two to 16 Ft/Pounds (maybe even 20). Tighten the front two to 16 Ft/lbs (maybe even 20)

8) If you're sure the bars are where you want, take a Sharpee pen, and draw lines across the bars, at the outer edges of the clamps, and place dots on the inner sides of the clamps, where they meet the bars. This will allow you to return the bars to this exact position if you remove them for some reason.

Reinstall everything in reverse order

NOTE: These instructions were written for the RK Standard and Classic. There will be minor differences due to the wind deflector on the custom, but they should be self-evident. (I don't have my service manual here at work, or I'd detail them).

Harris
 

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Monstermile said:
And finally: This is mostly for people who have traded up from either Sportys or Dynas. I know this is alot bigger bike and is not going to handle the twisties anywhere near as good as either of those.

You will be absolutely AMAZED at how well the HD touring bikes handle. Takes a little getting used to under 5 mph, but at speed, they handle like they are 300 pounds, not 700-800.

Teu
 

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Monstermile said:
Well I'm trading in my 05 Sporty Custom tomorrow for a beautiful 06 RKC in Black Pearl.
What is a RKC?? Do you mean FLHRCI?:265:
 
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From his question, and the fact he's talking about the Beach Bars, I gather he's getting a Custom.

On my handlebar post I didn't mention that those instructions only get you to the point the bars can be removed. I trust you'll be able to get through the changing grips on your own.

Harris
 
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