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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am I correct in assuming that if you don't put some type of other bracket in it's place, you just hacksaw it off and put the bolt-up part back in?
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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stanc said:
Am I correct in assuming that if you don't put some type of other bracket in it's place, you just hacksaw it off and put the bolt-up part back in?
WTF are you SAWING OFF????? :nono:

What model, year, etc.? :dunno:
 

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That works, but there are some plate relocation kits, and lights that have those brackets in their packaging...so just know what you are going to do back there because if you are going to put something there or buy some plate bracket, make sure that they do not have those brackets before you go unneccessarily cutting the bar.

adam
 

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stanc said:
Am I correct in assuming that if you don't put some type of other bracket in it's place, you just hacksaw it off and put the bolt-up part back in?
Have you got a 2 pound hammer?
Just use that!
 

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Another Great Day to Ride
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stanc said:
Am I correct in assuming that if you don't put some type of other bracket in it's place, you just hacksaw it off and put the bolt-up part back in?
Yes... You are correct... As a matter of fact, I think 8-Ball did exactly what you are talking about. He took some Kuryakyn Head Bolt Covers and JB welded them to the ends to clean it all up. I have another friend that did the same exact thing, but, he just left the holes...

It will work...

E :cool:
 

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You are correct. I cut mine off just like you are talking about. I found some black plastic inserts at the local hardware store to fill the holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
O5 roadglide, the tag bar, Geez. Thanks fellas.

Just keep banging on it....it'll fit. :huh:
 

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I just completed removing the license plate bar on my bike. I consulted with 8ball before doing it. I also used the Kuryakyn Stiletto head bolt covers but I took a slightly different approach.

With the chrome strut covers in place, I put black tape around the license bar for a line to cut with the hacksaw. I removed the chrome strut covers and made the cuts. I bought 2 head bolts from the dealer ($9) and had to cut about half the length off of those. I JB Welded the head bolts into the ends of the tubes and duct tape them in place over night. Next day I just attached the Stiletto head bolt covers. Picture below. I didn't have to remove the bar from the bike because I have my tins off the bike. But I would highly suggest removing the bar before cutting if you're fender is on the bike.

 

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This is the way I did it:



1.. Cut the "U" shaped bar that currently holds the license plate bracket and terminate the cut ends with some sort of point or trim. I used the Kuryakyn Stiletto head bolt covers (JB Welded them on). You can find them here:

http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=harley&ci=2397

Bruiser also has some interesting replacement brackets for the "U" shape bar that eliminates the cutting, and they have threaded tips that thread into the brackets. Pretty slick. I wanted to keep consistant with the Kuryakyn Stilleto head bolt covers so I did it the long way. You can find them here:

http://www.bruisersinc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BRUISERS&Product_Code=4012

2.. Use Softbrake's relocation license plate bracket which mounts to the existing rear turn signal bracket holes in the fender. I painted the original stainless steel bracket black. I then mounted the unframed license plate to it with chrome acorn nuts for a retro look. You can get it here:

http://www.shop.softbrake.com/Harley/shop_detail.asp?product_id=20

3.. You will need to move the rear emblem down. It is attached with 2-sided tape. Use Goo-Gone to remove from fender and to remove tape from emblem, denatured alchohol to prep surfaces, and reapply emblem with 3-M automotive 2-sided tape.



Click my link below and then the License Relocate tab for additonal information on this modification.
 
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