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Discussion Starter #1
Ordered my supertrapp supgermeg 2-1 install. anyone have any lessons learned or tips for the install when they get here?

thanks
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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ST has good instructions, I'd recommend you read'em. But if you don't, and assuming you have a touring bike, remove the footboard. Install the muffler clamp at the end of the pipe for full clamping affect. I thought it was a easy pipe to install.

So, how many shims are you going to use and open or closed end cap?

Chris
 

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Mine went pretty easy, the heat shield were about the worst part.

Like Ceraaa42 said, how many disk and open/closed cap?
 

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I haven't installed mine yet on my 08 RG, probably wait for at least mid 60's day (february if I'm lucky) that way I can get it on the dyno and check which is better # of discs, just gonna use map 100 and max the CLB tables since I don't have the patience to really learn and use the SERT. and just not ready to lay out 5 bills on a stage 1 dyno tune, maybe later if(more like when) I do build.
Still hoping to hear about your tuning experience ceraa42...
 

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HATER OF THE GRAVEL!!!!!!
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The best way to tune it is put it on e-bay and get a Pro pipe BP.:yes: :thumbsup:












I'm Just sayin'..............:roflback:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dont know how many disks yet, but it will be closed cap. I have a 103 in the RG, but I don't want a loud exhaust, which is why I went with Supertrapp. I heard the D&D fatcat, quiet baffle, and it was tooo loud for what I am looking for.

did you all use the screamin eagle exhaust gaskets?
 

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Just installed this pipe on my 01 Road Glide. The instructions are pretty good. BUT, the Harley manual says to torque the flange bolts and then tighten the transmission mount clamp. Doing it by the book, the collector pipe ended up about 3/4" away from the transmission mount. Talked to a Harley mech that I trust- He said to ignore the Harley manual and finger tighten all bolts/clamps first. THEN snug up the transmission mount clamp. Then torque the flange nuts. This sequence worked like a charm. Everything else was pretty straightforward.
 

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whoop72 said:
did you all use the screamin eagle exhaust gaskets?
You'll find its a snap to install, just follow the instructions. I torqued the exhaust bolts on the heads to HD's torque and procedure and have had zero leaks. I've used both the stock gaskets and presently after redoing my build I'm using a set of James JGI-170498-98 which are pretty much identical to the SE gaskets. The only thing I did different with those gaskets vs the stock was to use a little permitex Ultra Copper on the face of the pipes before putting them on. I did this because people have had problems with leaks using the SE gaskets in the past on the Supetrapp exhaust, I have zero leaks.
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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I had zero leaks with the SE gaskets. I just put the pipe slightly loose at the head, installed the rest, aligned everything and tightened it all down.

From dyno sheets I've seen; a stock 96" closed seems to end up about 18 discs closed. One of GMR's 107 Stg II builds with their 615 cams ended up tested with many different shims and came in best at 21. I would think 20 or 21 should be about right depending on the cam.
 

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Make sure that you take out the old gaskets and do not tighten anything until ALL OF THE BOLTS AND NUTS are in. Make sure that nothing is in a bind, tighten down easily and equally, it is almost like torqueing a head.
 

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Whoop72, I know that you said that you were gonna put on the closed cap but to be honest the open one isn't all that loud. You can get it from Summit Racing for about $20. I kind of wish it was a little louder having gone from true duals with wild pigs slip-ons to the ST.
 

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whoop72 said:
Ordered my supertrapp supgermeg 2-1 install. anyone have any lessons learned or tips for the install when they get here?
thanks
Read and heed the instructions....:thumbsup:



{salute( :spank: {salute(
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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If you run open end cap, it will sound great. But you will pick up a considerable torque dip down low.
 

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ceraaa42 said:
If you run open end cap, it will sound great. But you will pick up a considerable torque dip down low.
I run an open end cap on my mild build and there is no torque dip from 2000 on up. My torque curve looked the same with open end cap and with the closed end cap. Just sounds a little better with the open end cap. I got the pfft pfft sound with the closed end cap.
 

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Mtclassic said:
I run an open end cap on my mild build and there is no torque dip from 2000 on up. My torque curve looked the same with open end cap and with the closed end cap. Just sounds a little better with the open end cap. I got the pfft pfft sound with the closed end cap.

How mant disc's? :whisper:


{salute( :spank: {salute(
 

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MTclassic, could you post your dyno sheet and you build?
 

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"Jane you ignorant slut!"
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Mtclassic said:
I run an open end cap on my mild build and there is no torque dip from 2000 on up. My torque curve looked the same with open end cap and with the closed end cap. Just sounds a little better with the open end cap. I got the pfft pfft sound with the closed end cap.
You are very fortunate. Almost every sheet I've seen that was open has the torque dip. Possibly the 26G helps over the 37G I had. I had Mike Stegman tune it at Latus and he said having the closed cap would have helped. To close it up he said it would need a retune since it would then run lean down low and rich at the top.

Here's my sheet at post #178

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93543&page=12
 
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