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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I have been given the option to buy a Supertrap 2 into 1 system it has the tunable discs etc. I currently have Stock headers and SE II Slip ons which I quite like but always had planned to changeout. My bike is a 95 FXDWG the engine is stock and the carb has been rejetted.
I wonder if I could have your thoughts on the Supertrap pipe good?/Bad? sound ok? and can I just fit this or will further rejetting be required? I guessing that a Dyno tune would be a good idea afterwards anyway.

I have always like the 2:1 systems

Regards
Tobycat
In NZ next to Aussie
 

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killer sperm
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Tobycat, the supertrapp is a proven performer. Deep sound, not too loud. Search for Ohiomotoxer's posts in the exhaust forum. He used to work for Supertrapp & has some great tuning tips.
Now, about you downunder guys & the coriolus effect...
(1) Isn't Toby a dogs name? :whistle:
(2) I thought Australia was next to NZ as oposed to NZ next to Aussie? :harhar:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Milehog said:
Tobycat, the supertrapp is a proven performer. Deep sound, not too loud. Search for Ohiomotoxer's posts in the exhaust forum. He used to work for Supertrapp & has some great tuning tips.
Now, about you downunder guys & the coriolus effect...
(1) Isn't Toby a dogs name? :whistle:
(2) I thought Australia was next to NZ as oposed to NZ next to Aussie? :harhar:
Milehog, Yeah,that depends on what side of the Tasman sea your standing on. thanks for the advice.
Cheers
 

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killer sperm
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A couple years ago I was lookin' on line for for ideas for naming a new pup. It seems that downunder ,Toby is the most popular dog name. The pup said he liked it, so, Toby got his name.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Milehog said:
A couple years ago I was lookin' on line for for ideas for naming a new pup. It seems that downunder ,Toby is the most popular dog name. The pup said he liked it, so, Toby got his name.
That might apply to Cats as well down here Milehog, my Burmese is called Toby and I'm sure he thinks he's a dog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone know if it is possible to get replacement Heat sheilds for a Supertrap megaphone 2:1?

Regards

Tobycat
 

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I'm gonna powder his nose
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TOBYCAT1 said:
Hi Everyone,

I have been given the option to buy a Supertrap 2 into 1 system it has the tunable discs etc. I currently have Stock headers and SE II Slip ons which I quite like but always had planned to changeout. My bike is a 95 FXDWG the engine is stock and the carb has been rejetted.
I wonder if I could have your thoughts on the Supertrap pipe good?/Bad? sound ok? and can I just fit this or will further rejetting be required? I guessing that a Dyno tune would be a good idea afterwards anyway.

I have always like the 2:1 systems

Regards
Tobycat
In NZ next to Aussie

Some people like and do not like the sound the discs make..personal preference.
As for jetting, with a basic set up of 12~14 discs run the machine and see what it tells you, you may need to recalibrate the A/F, just because the discs are tunable does not mean that a mis tuned air fuel ratio can be made good with the discs. But if you are close with what you have now you should be in the ballpark with the Trapps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Ohiomotoxer,

Thanks for the advice. if I remember correctly from a past post you worked for Supertrapp?, just wondering then if you could help me with a query concerning the construction of the Supertrapp 2:1. The pipe I have has suffered some cosmetic damage on the heatsheilds and there is a dent in the lip of the chrome cover just above the endcap.The Supertrapp factory according to their website have replacement heatsheilds. I was wondering if you knew if Supertrapp can supply a replacement chrome peice for that part which covers the pipe from the collector back to the endcap? or is it an integral part of the muffler casing itself? eg all the internal parts are attached?

Many thanks,

Regards
Tobycat
 

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I'm gonna powder his nose
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The muffler body will have a part number stamped on it it will start wit 027-XXXX it will either be on the megaphone mount tab bracket or it will be under the T-Bolt clamp at the headpipe to muffler joint (you will need to loosen and slide the T-Bolt clamp away to read the number)
All you will need is the megaphone shell. You can remove the core by removing the 2 allen screws and using a long wooden dowel inserted through the muffler inlet, tap the core out (make sure the disc pac is still on).It may be a good time to re pack the core so order a muffler re pack kit from them as well. OR There used to be a complete muffler assebmly part number where you get the whole body and core already installed.

Hope this helps.
 

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05 FLHTCI
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I am waiting for o2 bungs

I have been watching these pipes for a while, and thinking about picking up a set for quieter performance, but am waiting for o2 bungs to be added. Anybody have any insight into this?

David
 

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BaggerDave said:
I have been watching these pipes for a while, and thinking about picking up a set for quieter performance, but am waiting for o2 bungs to be added. Anybody have any insight into this?

David
me too. After my new engine build (see below) the Propipes are way too frickin loud. But, I want to actually hear a set of Supertrapps before I commit.
 

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I'm gonna powder his nose
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Talking with my bud at SuperT (they have a new Dyna with the two O2 sensors) they should have pipes soon, the EFI recalibration will be another thing.
I was talking to my bud at Boss Noss/Dobeck and they are "almost there" with a recalibration box. The problem is making the two O2 sensors work with the recalibration device.
Time will tell...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Ohiomotoxer,

for the replies and advice,

I finally got the pipe fitted at my dealership and they did not have time to dynotune it on the day so it still has the jetting it had with SE II's but it is booked in for a full dynotune in a week.My first impressions were that it was quieter than my screamin Eagle slipons but was pleasantly surprised that it got louder up the rev range it has a much different sound(and it looks awesome) Performance wise it was a little disappointing as it doesnt appear to have the torque it used to_Off the line it doesnt pull as strong however the top end has definitely improved.I know the dynotuning process will probably fix this as I want a strong midrange and heaps of torque or at least what it had with SEII'S.

I have some questions I was hoping that you Ohiomotoxer or someone else could help me with if you dont mind?

My bike is stock evo with SE airfilter and jetted carb and now the 2:1 supertrapp (12 rings,closed end cap) Is it worth the effort to add 2 more
rings to see if that improves the torque situation before it goes back for its dynotune?

You mentioned in a past post not to tighten the Allen head screw too much, so should they be tightened until they are firm but not locked down or just tighten untill they dont move?

When they do the Dynotuning do they set the Air/fuel ratio first? then add/remove rings to get the best result? and does it mean that if you add more rings it will be quieter?

Apologies in advance I know these questions probably are very basic but I dont have an riding buddies here in New Zealand with a Supertrapp fitted already to ask.

Many Thanks

Tobycat

95FXDWG
Weliington
New Zealand
 

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it is easy to change the number of disks. Try adding a couple of disks and if you like how feels try adding a couple more until it does not run as good then go back to where it was running best. the more disks the louder it will be. Also you need ot drill a 5/16 inch hole in the end cap so they can get an air fuel probe up the exhuast pipe. You might want to order an open end cap before you get it dynoed.
 

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Trapp questions revealed

TOBYCAT1 said:
Thanks Ohiomotoxer,

for the replies and advice,

I finally got the pipe fitted at my dealership and they did not have time to dynotune it on the day so it still has the jetting it had with SE II's but it is booked in for a full dynotune in a week.My first impressions were that it was quieter than my screamin Eagle slipons but was pleasantly surprised that it got louder up the rev range it has a much different sound(and it looks awesome) Performance wise it was a little disappointing as it doesnt appear to have the torque it used to_Off the line it doesnt pull as strong however the top end has definitely improved.I know the dynotuning process will probably fix this as I want a strong midrange and heaps of torque or at least what it had with SEII'S.

Hopefully they will adjust the low speed air fuel ratio settings, this should give you better low end.

I have some questions I was hoping that you Ohiomotoxer or someone else could help me with if you dont mind?

My bike is stock evo with SE airfilter and jetted carb and now the 2:1 supertrapp (12 rings,closed end cap) Is it worth the effort to add 2 more
rings to see if that improves the torque situation before it goes back for its dynotune?

You may have low speed air fuel ratio issues, Trapp 2:1 with 12 discs should have great bottom end.
I suggest the open end cap for the best of both worlds.

You mentioned in a past post not to tighten the Allen head screw too much, so should they be tightened until they are firm but not locked down or just tighten untill they dont move?

Tightening the allen screws too much will distort/crush the needed gap between the discs, use common sense when tightening, normal thumb pressure on the allen key is all that is needed, be sure to use a good amount of thread lube on the allen screw every time you remove them. Sometine it is a good idea to run a 10/24 (4 in disc) or 8/32 (3 in disc) tap through the insert to keep things happy.

When they do the Dynotuning do they set the Air/fuel ratio first? then add/remove rings to get the best result? and does it mean that if you add more rings it will be quieter?

When I do dyno testing I run a baseline to see where the air fuel ratio is at, from doing thousands of runs I can look at the powercurve readout and make the determination of which air fuel ratio adjustments are needed, the dyno operator should do this first.
Then, starting with 12 discs the operator can tune FLOW not air fuel ratio settings to show the best powercurve for that particular machine. REMEMBER: You only tune FLOW with the discs NOT the air fuel ratio, allot of people think that you can tune air fuel ratio with discs but that is not really true. More discs = more flow = more surface area for the exhaust to exit = more sound. Less discs = less flow= less surface area for the exhaust to exit= less sound.

Apologies in advance I know these questions probably are very basic but I dont have an riding buddies here in New Zealand with a Supertrapp fitted already to ask.


No problem, I am glad to pass on any information I have learned from working at the Trapp.

Many Thanks

Tobycat

95FXDWG
Weliington
New Zealand
 

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Ohiomotoxer, Been reading your posts and have enjoyed them. It's great to see someone that knows what they are talking about. I have a 2004 SE Eglide with the 103,(TW 37 cam,+ 4 crane advance) and recently switched out the Supermeg. I had the 20 disc and closed cap and was disappointed with the TQ loss. Found your post and went to the open cap and 9 discs. Better TQ but not what it was. I will get it tuned as soon as the weather gets nice. (Wisconsin) I've seen where you say to start with 10-12 discs. Does that still hold for my combo and wanting great low end TQ? I don't know if the dyno tuners will play with the discs for TQ or just set the map to what the bike is when it's brought in. Thanks for any help! kbiforce
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Ohiomotoxer,

Thanks for the reply,I have been experimenting with adding/removing the rings (using heaps of antiseize)and I have also ordered the open end cap that you suggested from Summit Racing, yes they deliver to New Zealand and have been great to deal with I highly recommend them. I was just wondering how many rings should I use with the open end cap? with my basic 80cu stage1 setup.

Thanks for your help

Regards
Tobycat1
Wellington
New Zealand
 

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kbiforce said:
Ohiomotoxer, Been reading your posts and have enjoyed them. It's great to see someone that knows what they are talking about. I have a 2004 SE Eglide with the 103,(TW 37 cam,+ 4 crane advance) and recently switched out the Supermeg. I had the 20 disc and closed cap and was disappointed with the TQ loss. Found your post and went to the open cap and 9 discs. Better TQ but not what it was. I will get it tuned as soon as the weather gets nice. (Wisconsin) I've seen where you say to start with 10-12 discs. Does that still hold for my combo and wanting great low end TQ? I don't know if the dyno tuners will play with the discs for TQ or just set the map to what the bike is when it's brought in. Thanks for any help! kbiforce

Sorry been away dyno'in new machines.

Yes, same holds true.
The 4 inch disc is good for approx 200hp flow wise.
BUT having the ability to "tune the discs to flow" is the advantage no other exhaust has, you may need to fine tune things to suit your needs.
 
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