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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kind of baffled on this? Putting bike (02 Deuce) back together after a nice winter project and I came upon this as I attempted to put the steering head back on. Seems simple enough but there are no illustrations in the manual. Not enough (or probably too much) information found in the search here and google and they have'nt made, "Fall-away for Dummies" yet, but can anybody give me the two minute drill on this?

Thanks, :Dennis
 

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This adjustment is actually how tight the head bearings are. Obviously too loose and the forks will wobble. Too tight and you'll have wear on the bearings and maybe extra effort to turn the bars. Noting the center of the fender when the bars are straight, tap the front of the fender to the side as many times as it takes to get the forks to swing that way. Check the distance from your start point to the point where the forks "fell" the rest of the way. Check this for both directions. I think the spec is 1 or 2 inches, check book. To adjust, you'll have to turn the adjuster nut under the top tripple tree, I use a small screwdriver and tap it in the direction it needs to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Getting a little clearer now, thank you. I assume that the handlebars are left intact and you simply tighten the adjuster nut in between with a small enough object to get in there? What "locks" it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
DR_DEUCE said:
What locks it in place is the upper nut, just under the chrome cover, top center of upper triple tree.
I can't comprehend how it is locked in place as there really isn't anything to keep it from backing off or even tightening up slightly from the constant pivoting of the steering column. The tab on the large washer isn't long enough to catch one of the teeth on the adjuster nut. And since I have installed new bearings and races should I just put some miles on it and re-check the fall-away at regular intervals?
 

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The washer with the tab is on top of the triple trees. That holds the nut from loosening.,This nut IS the lock down nut you ask about. As you stated, it might just be a good idea to recheck the fallaway adjustment after riding a bit. Myself, during assembly, I usually adjust it tighter than normal, then back it off to where it's good. I think that'll help to make certain that the bearings are correctly seated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
DR_DEUCE said:
The washer with the tab is on top of the triple trees. That holds the nut from loosening.,This nut IS the lock down nut you ask about. As you stated, it might just be a good idea to recheck the fallaway adjustment after riding a bit. Myself, during assembly, I usually adjust it tighter than normal, then back it off to where it's good. I think that'll help to make certain that the bearings are correctly seated.
Thank you, you've been a tremendous help.
 

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Help with Deuce Fallaway

Check the distance from your start point to the point where the forks "fell" the rest of the way. Check this for both directions. I think the spec is 1 or 2 inches, check book. To adjust, you'll have to turn the adjuster nut under the top tripple tree, I use a small screwdriver and tap it in the direction it needs to go.
The Service and Parts Manuals for my new-to-me 02' Deuce are not here yet, but the parts to fix the clunk have arrived. I have questions, and I'd appreciate the collective wisdom of this group.

1) The chromed fork stem cap is not quite 'easy' to reach, and I can't loosen mine. Any clever trick(s) to get it off without scarring it? My old man's Model A Ford didn't have one, so I never learned this. If it weren't pretty, I'd use a punch and a hammer. There must be abetter way.

2) The fallaway quoted above says 1 or 2 inches. I don't have the manual yet to confirm. Anybody know the number for sure? At least as important: measured where?!? The forwardmost part of the tire? The forwardmost tip of the fender? I did see somewhere that someone in a different forum said the top of the fender.

3) Let's say I don't sort out the fallaway business. Let's say I don't have a bike stand readily available. If I properly torque the nut that I'll be replacing when I fix the clunk, how bad could it be? 50 years ago we would have done it the way we did wheel bearings: Tighten it until it starts to bind, then back it off a tad. But I've never experienced an oscillating front end, and I'd rather not start now!

4) As I've said, I don't have the cover off yet. I've read seemingly contradictory information. Is the 1-1/2 inch nut the adjustment? ...or is there another adjuster nut/screw/lever/thingamajig?

5) I'm assuming that the top of the fork is rigidly attached to the upper tree, though I don't see how. There are no obvious pinch bolts. Unless that joint somehow floats, I assume that I have to loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tree. I'm guessing they should be loose to do the initial tightening of the nut, and that if fine adjustment is needed in the name of fallaway, that I can probably leave them tight. Anybody know the torque spec for the pinch bolts?

Thanks in advance for some good data!

Paul in East Troy WI
 

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The Service and Parts Manuals for my new-to-me 02' Deuce are not here yet, but the parts to fix the clunk have arrived. I have questions, and I'd appreciate the collective wisdom of this group.

1) The chromed fork stem cap is not quite 'easy' to reach, and I can't loosen mine. Any clever trick(s) to get it off without scarring it? My old man's Model A Ford didn't have one, so I never learned this. If it weren't pretty, I'd use a punch and a hammer. There must be abetter way.

2) The fallaway quoted above says 1 or 2 inches. I don't have the manual yet to confirm. Anybody know the number for sure? At least as important: measured where?!? The forwardmost part of the tire? The forwardmost tip of the fender? I did see somewhere that someone in a different forum said the top of the fender.

3) Let's say I don't sort out the fallaway business. Let's say I don't have a bike stand readily available. If I properly torque the nut that I'll be replacing when I fix the clunk, how bad could it be? 50 years ago we would have done it the way we did wheel bearings: Tighten it until it starts to bind, then back it off a tad. But I've never experienced an oscillating front end, and I'd rather not start now!

4) As I've said, I don't have the cover off yet. I've read seemingly contradictory information. Is the 1-1/2 inch nut the adjustment? ...or is there another adjuster nut/screw/lever/thingamajig?

5) I'm assuming that the top of the fork is rigidly attached to the upper tree, though I don't see how. There are no obvious pinch bolts. Unless that joint somehow floats, I assume that I have to loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tree. I'm guessing they should be loose to do the initial tightening of the nut, and that if fine adjustment is needed in the name of fallaway, that I can probably leave them tight. Anybody know the torque spec for the pinch bolts?

Thanks in advance for some good data!

Paul in East Troy WI
Man, that post was over 11 years ago.

joe
 

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Does that matter? Do people not read new replies and questions hanging off old posts? I'm new here, I don't know the norms...

Paul
You're free to reply to any post you want.

joe
 

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Does that matter? Do people not read new replies and questions hanging off old posts? I'm new here, I don't know the norms...

Paul
This is the way I see it grasshopper. You read the old threads, but had more questions. Those guys no longer post so they probably dead and you didn't know that, because you just started. What to do?

Start a new thread. There are some knowledgeable mechanics here and are glad to help.
 

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So that being said, did you get your questions answered?

1) No pinch bolts on upper fork as the point is to allow the triple trees to slide. Loosen the bottom two and then retighten to 30 foot pounds when you are done.

2) Remove the chrome cap with a piece of 1/4 inch rubber hose. Just wrap it around and give it a tug. This usually takes them right off.

3) Fallaway is technically measured at the back of the fender (see the little hole? It's not a drain hole, it's for a plumb bob) but nobody does that. As described above, tap the fender one way until it falls, then put it back where you started and tap the other way until it falls. The combination should be 2 to 4 inches between fallaway points.

4) The adjustment itself is the nut on top on your bike if I remember correctly. Some bikes have a star nut below the upper triple tree and you loosen the nut and then move the star nut with a skinny driver, then tighten the nut. If you have the star nut (which I don't think you have) then make sure you tighten the upper nut prior to checking fallaway as that will cause it to become tighter. Once the fallaway is to your liking, tighten the pinchbolts.

Also, when you have it up on the jack, check the bearing itself by feel. Very gently rotate the handlebars back and forth. You are checking for a flat spot which will feel like a bit of a bump, usually right in the middle with the wheel pointed straight ahead.

Hopefully this helps, and in the future, yes, you are better off starting a new thread.
 
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